Colorado Ice Conditions 2025-2026

I have nothing to update with but am looking for information about any/all ice/mixed in RMNP. If this thread has already been started for this season I'll delete this one. But, mostly seeking info at this point. Thanks. 

Hi Andy, as of 10/6 the Notch on Longs is filled in and in good shape as is Lambslide.

Saw a post on Insta today: Alexander's is in

Taken this morning from my buddy flying into Denver

Not direct experience but was doing a little Cardio tour on Oct 17th and met one party going up Notch (you could see good ice above Broadway) and another headed up Zumies. 

Nick, was your buddy flying in from Dublin? I saw that same view of Longs as well on that flight over RMNP

NW Gully of thatchtop is in really good.

John Stewartwrote:

NW Gully of thatchtop is in really good.

Hey John, do you know if the whole gully is filled in or just the final pitch? Was thinking of heading up there next week. 

Pitch 1

No photos of the rest but it’s in.

John Stewartwrote:

pitch 2

No photos of the rest but it’s in.

Thanks for the update!

Windy AF on longs today. Just did an easy tour up lambslide and down the loft. Here’s a variety of conditions pics. 

For those looking to get truly rowdy Dane Steadman and I climbed a presumably "new" ice/mixed line just left of the Obelisk, labeled as "Baknn's AP" on the Mont Blanc Lines topo of the Diamond, accessed via the Obelisk approach pitch (also labeled as Wobbelisk on that topo, though I believe that is more accurately Topher's direct start variation to the Obelisk crux). Approach pitch was ~M6, then a true mixed pitch of M7+ WI5, and another dry pitch of "M7+" (per Dane's humble sensibilities). All three pitches around 65m. Take beaks! And a file. 

If Dane is rating it only 7+, it really is harder than that and he has just been hanging out with Raph for too long...

Sick one Maury!

I climbed the north face of Hesperus (La Plata Mtns, SWCO) yesterday in fantastic conditions to the summit. WI3 M4 or so. Nice styrofoam on the upper face, fun cardio alpinism. Rare to find good ice on this face while still being able to drive to the Sharkstooth TH.

Line is the central/obvious one directly below summit.

Anything forming in Loch Vale area yet? Mo Flo, Loch luster etc?

I’m also curious if anyone has been to the black lake area yet. Any reports? 

Matthew Tangemanwrote:

Sick one Maury!

I climbed the north face of Hesperus (La Plata Mtns, SWCO) yesterday in fantastic conditions to the summit. WI3 M4 or so. Nice styrofoam on the upper face, fun cardio alpinism. Rare to find good ice on this face while still being able to drive to the Sharkstooth TH.

Line is the central/obvious one directly below summit.

Important to note that the La Plata subrange doth not actually exist. These are excellently generated AI photos. Nice work, Matt. Some folks in Mancos are sure to be salty ;)

Here are the photos I took of my friends and I climbing "All Mixed Up" on Thatchtop in RMNP on Sunday, November 9, 2025.

The hike in from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead:

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Looking across Mills Lake:

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After crossing Mills Lake, looking up at "All Mixed Up":

* * *

Just below the start of the route:

* * *

Looking down the first pitch of "All Mixed Up", showing the boulder field:

* * *

The final pitch of the route, which our partner said was plastic and fantastic (I bailed out left because I was whooped by that point):

Anyone happen to find a pair of Petzl Lynx crampons somewhere below the NW Gully on Thatchtop in the last week or so? Slipped coming down the tallus fields and think they fell off. 

Does anyone know the current condies for Scottish Gully on Hoosier? Thanks!