Van Rental vs Car Rental vs Buying
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Martin le Rouxwrote: I googled it and in NV where he's flying into you can register being from out of country. But I didn't think about insurance. I have never once on my life removed license plates from a sold car or had a seller remove them from a bought car. The seller can turn in the release of liability form on the title to show it's sold. At least in California.
I buy used almost every time, but I always buy vehicles in excellent condition, I know how to inspect them, that are reliable brands/models, and usually lowish miles and I've never had a breakdown in decades. In the past 10 years I've bought: a 2008 Lexus RX for my son bought with 168K currently at 180K no issues, a 2012, 2013, 2010 Prius all bought with around 50K, all have gone to over 100K no issues. A 2017 F150, bought with 100K a few years ago no issues (V8 / 6 speed). A 2017 E350 Van bought with only 27K a few years ago no issue. A 1999 F250 bought at 200K and sold at 230K. The worst issue is the F250 was leaking at the fuel injection (a powerstroke diesel which is the only reason I bought something with that many miles). I tell people buying used pay a couple grand more if you need to to get a car in excellent condition because you could spend a couple grand in repairs easily. It's better to spend that money up front and get a car that likely won't have issues. I wouldn't consider buying a vehicle I didn't fully trust. I'd buy a cheaper model in better condition. . . It's a lot more hassle, risk, and time to buy and sell so 3 months is the minimum I'd even consider doing it for. But for 6 months I'd likely make it work if I could legally buy and get insurance. I'd compare the cost of long term rental of a mini van to buying and selling a small cargo van. Rough math rent a minivan at $40 a day * 90 days = $3,600. Buy a Nissan NV200 with 50-80K miles for $15,000 sell it for $13,000 and still come out ahead. |
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I live in the north east with Winter salt and a shit tonn of dirt roading . Inmop vehicles suck you dry .. wheel bearings, rust, axles, and All the front end parts... I can do quite a bit myself but still have to use a real mechanic for the harder stuff. |
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I grew up in the north east and know what you mean. I live in California and the OP is flying into Las Vegas where it's usually very different. My mom in NY has a 2010 Highlander SUV 120K miles. I got my son a 2008 Lexus RX 168K. Basically the same Toyota made car. Both have been garaged. The Lexus is like new. The Highlander has rust spots, squeaky wheels, and a lot of underbody rust. And I know she at least had some major wheel bearings/brake work done. |
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I don't even count brakes and oil changes, almost anyone can do a brake job... My 08 sierra work truck two winters ago I put in new front axels and struts, new sway bar bushings and links. I had a local shop do the control arms/ball joints tie rods wheel bearings etc. . last year I did a bunch of body work and need to do some more before winter, This spring it was air bag sensors. Right now I am procrastinating on changing all the fluids. front and rear diff, transfer case and tranny.. and it has a bunch of emissions codes. The 06 sprinter I just did sway bar links and bushings which was rather more involved than on a GMC 1500. had the sprinter tranny fluid/filters etc changed this spring but cruise control and AC dont work and are on the wish list. I put new lithium batteries in the auxilary solar power system a few months ago but have not got around to installing the lower cargo door bracket with roller bearing. Part is in the dirty laundry bin. Old roller bearing is shot and the door rattles like 3 year on playing with dads drum kit... I also need to do some body work before putting it in winter storage. and I think it has a fuel leak? I keep smelling diesel... and it needs glow plug sensors. Vehicles suck you dry..... |
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I'm glad I don't deal with the NE salt anymore. When I said brake work I'm not just talking rotors/pads I'm taking calipers, lines, other parts that rusted out. If I wanted to make you feel bad I'd post pictures of the underneath of my son's 08 Lexus. It's like new. I love the Priuses I've owned. I have other vehicles for stuff they can't do, but for a people mover they are hard to beat value wise. I have put over 100K on them with no brakes jobs, no big fluid changes, etc. Nothing but oil and tires. 55 mpg. |
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ZT Gwrote: Not true. As of 2024, only the following five states do not impose a statewide sales tax on new or used vehicles:
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Terry Ewrote: I believe this was your experience but as a US resident who lived in Alaska - I had others drive my car back to Alaska for me while I stayed in the lower 48 a bit longer during my shoulder season and I simply provided a signed note giving permission to that individual/party. As well, I took a friend’s van up to Squamish over the summer and had zero issues crossing with NO note. They did question me at the border and I told them the exact scenario and they waved me along. I wished I had done the note thing here but completely spaced during the initial van handover. This is one of those scenarios where folks have various experiences *shrug* Try the signed letter option, I was told that was 100% legit at the border. |
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Ceeg Gallagherwrote: Try the signed letter option, I was told that was 100% legit at the border. That's what I would do. Make sure the letter includes a way to contact the owner (phone #), but they will likely not bother calling them. And make sure you have the registration, proof of insurance, etc. That's also exactly what I do when I cross the border with my daughter but without my wife. I've been asked for the letter a bunch of times, and it's always been fine. |
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Marc801 Cwrote: Sarcasm isn’t your strong suit is it? |
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ZT Gwrote: Nothing in your post was the least bit sarcastic. |
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If you go the way of rental: Make sure you have a real credit card. Many people outside of US has what is called debit cards and lots of rental companies don't accept those. |
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Marc801 Cwrote: I’ll spoon feed it to you since you’re having so much trouble. I’m aware that only a few states don’t actually tax vehicle sales. I’m also aware that if you bend the truth to DMV you can reduce a $1000 bill to under $5. Op can take the advice or not, I’ll still sleep well tonight |
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When do you want to make this trip? I’ve got annd but so far very reliable built out low-top contractor style van that I use as my daily driver during some parts of the year and would probably be happy to offer it up to some Aussies for a road trip if it helps me fund a truck or some other car that I can drive around my small town in as my daily driver! Give me a shout! |
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ZTG in my state VT if there is any suspicion that the sale price is fudged they send a sheriff out to inspect the vehicle. That and or they will just go off of Kelly Blue book and completely hose you if you bought it below book value. |
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ZT Gwrote: I get all that. You're just trying to save face for being called out on an incorrect statement, claiming 'sarcasm' etc. |
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Flying into Nevada? Vegas has good deals on vehicles. Buy it there and sell it somewhere else. You have to own the vehicle and bring the paper work to enter Canada. You can get a good vehicle for a few grand. It helps to know which models and which years are reliable. Reach out if you need help |
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Marc801 Cwrote: lol ok. I’m long past trying to “save face” on mtp fourms |
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nic houserwrote: This website is great for research. https://www.dashboard-light.com/ It's real world LONG TERM reliability. Not reports on cars that are only 3 years old that consumer reports or others consider long term. You can search by size like minivan or brand. Click on a model and drill down to see how different generations do. IMO it's worth getting a vehicle that's rated at least 80 even if it means spending more to get a newer model. A big repair can cost as much as you'll save on a cheaper car, and you'll often get your money back out if you sell it. |
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