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Know of old timer climbers who wish they had stopped climbing sooner?
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When it's raining and the anecdotal evidence is questioned, drink coffee and surf the internet... Here's what me and my coffee mug found, top 3:
https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/s00508-004-0258-y.pdf Tangential; perhaps relevant for aging folks. There is a huge body of info about non-climbing recovery vs. age; perhaps that deserves to be further scrutinized for info that could be applied to climbing. Here, see the first line in Table 5. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1016/j.wem.2017.05.001 This one is on topic. The subjects are the "survivors," not a longitudinal study, but might give you an idea about what the over-35 cohort experiences. Maybe someone's longitudinal study can help find out what happens to the climbers that quit while they were ahead. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1016/j.wem.2019.06.008 |
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Hi Mei This is a great topic. Great question! I'm in my '60s + have arthritis everywhere, including my hands. I started climbing when I was 19 but sadly climbed only intermittently until I got back into it seriously in my '50s and now I'm climbing in earnest in my '60s because I can retire and spend more time doing it while I still have a body that can function. I guess I feel the opposite... I regret that I didn't climb more when I was younger but here I am after years of working in a hospital as a nurse and as a river guide and I've kind of hammered my body working instead of having fun climbing. I also think my body is just prone to arthritis, possibly genetic as I also have funky hip joints. But, I'm still out there doing it after a broken hip resulting in a hip replacement, knee repair, a broken ankle and a broken toe, broken hands and fingers. All of these broken bones were not from climbing! A few important things that I've learned from my orthopedic adventures. Choose your surgeons and doctors wisely. In my 50s after about 3 years of getting cortisone injections into my decomposing hip joint, I did one last hurrah climbing Aconcagua and then 6 months later got a hip replacement. I went to many surgeons for their opinions and most of them said I was finished and was either too young for a hip replacement or they said I would not be able to do the things I love to do like hiking peak bagging climbing skiing etc. It was like doomsday. But then someone mentioned UCSF joint institute and this person was an athlete. I went there and it was completely a different opinion. They asked me when do you want to get it done? what approach do you want? and you'll have no restrictions. OMG. It was amazing I was climbing (TR or following)3 months later on very easy stuff and carefully but it was amazing. I indeed have no limitations with my hip joint. I forget I had it done!. I went back again to them to repair my shredded meniscus. I had a great result but knees are different. They are a tough one to recover from. But, hey, I'm still out there skiing and climbing. Here's the other really important thing I learned. Training and taking care of your body makes a world of difference. I found that finding a really good physical therapist/ trainer is gold and will keep you out there. After I broke my ankle I hired a personal physical therapist /trainer who knew what climbing was all about. I was acutely aware that the minute you stop moving, sarcopenia kicks in and I did not want this to happen as I recovered. Alas as she promised , I came back better than before the broken ankle! I was weight training like never before and there is a good body of research going on out there showing the huge benefits of resistance training on the aging body. I think with aging and battling arthritis, training, preparing and taking care of your body just pays off exponentially. Yoga also helps me tremendously and honestly I just feel so much better after climbing even if my arthritic fingers and toes are screaming. Maybe it's just a mental thing but I feel like my body feels better too. I just have to live with the aches and pains. IMO its a small price to pay for what I get out of it. And heck, most women my age are either dead or just give up and don't do any any exercise, training or moving whatsoever. I regret that I didn't have this viewpoint earlier in my years. I might be in better shape now. Hey Mei, I met you this summer at the Hans and Heidi efficient climbing workshop at Lovers Leap. I was so impressed with how hard you climb at your age. You have an amazing tick list and you are in great shape. I would say any woman in our age group is a total outlier especially if you're climbing as hard as you are. I would just keep doing what you love! You're so good at it! In fact, I would love to climb with you sometime if you're up for climbing with this ol lady! |
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Like Stefanie, I started young (age 13) and climbed until my 20s and then stopped until 2019. I’m 65 now. I was heavily into cycling and still backpacked a lot. But I was mostly doing things that were easy on my body. Like cycling. I climb regularly now and just had a fun few days at Yosemite. I have no issues with my knees or hips. No arthritis. No issues at all. I just climbed Shasta. I’m not trying to brag. I just think that my long hiatus from climbing may have saved my body. So maybe I’m grateful that I did quit early. Although a big part of me wishes I had done more. But my career didn’t really allow the climbing lifestyle I would have wanted. Now, I intend to climb until I can’t. At this age, it seems like climbing will only improve and maintain my physical condition, rather than cause physical degradation. |
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Great to hear from aspiring climbers at all mature ages! |
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Mei - great topic! I’m at the 51 year anniversary and 71. |
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Like Guy, I have climbed pretty much continuously for about 53 years. Unlike Guy (and others), and like some others, I have not had any major physical problems (except a car accident some 15 years ago that compromised my back somewhat - so no jumping down off boulders or scree running, etc.) I ride MTB and some road about four days a week and climb (mostly at the gym) twice a week. Having another low impact activity (like cycling) is a good way of maintaining fitness while not climbing too much. Not over-stressing joints and knowing when to take things down a notch, probably have contributed to this longevity. If crimping or other types of holds/moves are causing joint pain issues, you really should back off of that and do different types or routes/boulders and training. Rest periods, lower intensity, even taking some time off, will contribute to being able to climb into your more advanced years. Still love climbing and will probably climb until I absolutely can't, and will adjust expectations (difficulty) further downward. Ultimately, your body will dictate what is possible or not, and everyone's experience will be different. |
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I am 66 years old and started climbing around 14 years of age. I've been climbing ever since except for some significant time off for injuries including almost a year off when i broke my ankle and needed surgery a few days after I turned 60. I still boulder lot at low grades close to the ground and in the gym and lead 5.9-easy 5.10 as long as it's well protected. I definitely have some sore spots including lumpy ass fingers, arthritic ankle, and fucked up shoulders from broken collar bones and separations. I never wished I stopped earlier unless you mean earlier in the day on the days I got hurt. I thank god every day I get to climb as I work my way backward down through the grades. |
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I'm 75. I would much rather face the pain of arthritis and shoulder issues (which I have in spades) than the regret of stopping something I love. |
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I've been climbing for about 50 years and I still really enjoy it. The aches and pains I get are a warning sign. My family history of longevity indicates I might be around for a while. In recent years I have ramped up the amount of mountain biking that I do and decreasing the frequency of climbing. Yes you are gripping the handlebars really tight but it is somewhat different than the climbing grip. I think this will allow me to climb pain free for the immediate future. I'm talking about this so others may try this out. I did a ride yesterday with a high temp of about 38 and it was no problem. Living in Rhode Island I would recommend the Big River Management area for the best riding. The global warming effect means snow is not usually a factor to shut down good riding conditions. I will also mention that I upgraded to a bike with front and back suspension and my back really appreciates it. Keep on truckin |
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What about all the people who do jack shit and their bodies are painful and wasted? |
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This is such a good post. I already have very lax joints, and after 20+ years of climbing, I definitely have finger arthritis and the hand surgeon very helpfully said to just stop climbing. They aren’t terrible, but I am only 47 and I wonder what activities I am not going to be able to when I am older….I play the piano so that really worries me. But as Mustard said, I know folks who aren’t climbers who have problems. Like my piano teacher said she was getting arthritis in her fingers. Inactive people who have back and other joint problems. Aside from all the other stuff that goes with being inactive. I am not going to stop climbing, but I did see a hand therapist who gave me exercises to do. That + antagonist exercise as finger warm up each time I am at the gym. Outside doesn’t seem to make my fingers bad. I am trying to listen to my body and fingers and look at longevity instead of just now. I worked with a surgeon who was a college football star. Like has his own football cards level. And he says if he could turn back time I would not play football. He was in pain everyday of his life in his 60’s. One of my regular partners is 70 and he seems to be doing just fine…so maybe climbing isn’t so hard on the body like some other sports? |
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I had to give up most climbing years ago when I shattered my right leg and had an external fixator on for three months and casts for two months with the result having only about 70% flexibility in the ankle. Could do short stuff and not very long cracks. Several years later the arthritis got so bad I am now having ankle replacement surgery in February. Can mt. bike though. Pretty much a crack climber and no arthritis in my hands and a paint contractor got 38 years without arthritis from that. I am 73 and still walk and do stuff better than a lot of other people my age. |
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I'm 63 and have done a bunch of different sports in my life. Only one was at a high level and I stepped away from it at 35. There were a couple of reasons but a big one was that I kept getting injured the last couple of years. I still loved it and miss it to this day but I could see where things were going. As far as climbing goes I understand that for someone prone to finger arthritis the equation may be different but for me it's far easier on the body than a lot of other sports. I have friends older than I who are still getting out and enjoying themselves and I hope to be the same even if my level keeps declining. But it's clear that it you climb to push your limits you have to accept that those limits will start contracting at some point and you need something else to motivate yourself. For me companionship. adventure and being outdoors doing fun stuff with my friends is enough. |
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Just adding an anecdote about coming back after a period of poor health and inactivity…. So not strictly age caused but definitely age compounding the issues. A couple of years ago I was in physical agony from foot pain (but deeply satisfied otherwise) just doing the old Machete Ridge traverse in Pinnacles. I was hobbling around tenderly on stuff below 5.5 and really worried about being able to climb “real” stuff again. Today I helped my wife get the kids ready for school, and did 8 pitches of climbing (two routes of 4 pitches each with raps) on-site leading 5.10 face, and back in time to pick up kids from school and do the evening routine. A week ago I spent 7 days in the Eastern Sierra doing 4-5 sport climbs per day every day in the 5.8 - 5.10 range (with one day for an adventure climb with a proper chimney and OW). I’m getting more psyched to do more stuff, getting in range of my prior peak for gym climbing, and I haven’t even really committed to a routine of 2x a week in the gym yet. Sleep is huuuuge… any issues in that department fix it asap. Let the body heal what it can. I still have arthritis pain in my hands and weaker handshake, but somehow it’s not affecting my climbing much. Also: sugar/excess carb intake can be a major aggravator for arthritis. It’s not just anecdotal- there are papers showing the molecular mechanisms that trigger inflammation. Research that if the pain gets in the way of doing what you want to do. |
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Hi Nut Again, thanks for reviving the thread to share your updated experience! Could it be that the latest Royal Arches thread caught your attention and brought you back to the forum? It sure did for me given the unforgettable memory you and I shared! I'm really glad to hear that you are on the up and up again! I completely agree with you about the importance of sleep. I’m not sure how much difference it makes physically, but mentally I feel awful when I’m sleep-deprived. These days I often skip long-day activities just to make sure I get enough rest — it’s become a real priority. As for sugar and excess carbs… unfortunately, that’s always been my kryptonite. I know full well about the potential inflammatory effects, but pastries and cheesecakes bring me so much joy. I haven’t given them up, but I’m happy to report I’ve stopped the old destructive binge-eating cycles. Sometimes, when self-control runs low, changing your living environment can really help. I’m scheduled for a hip replacement next year. Interestingly, I can still do all the activities I love — climbing, hiking, mountain biking, and road cycling — and can usually work around the restriction. It’s daily life that’s more limiting: driving, sitting, and even sleeping. The constant discomfort keeps creeping into my mind. Reading about good outcomes (like Bill Ramsey’s) gives me hope that surgery will be for the better. Who knows — maybe I’ll climb 5.14s like him with a new hip! That said, I’ve got more than half a year before surgery. If the pain miraculously goes away on its own, even better. Maybe someday I’ll manage to cut sweets down to twice a week — and that’ll solve everything! These days, I’m still climbing pretty hard during regular gym sessions. Aside from ever-softening gym grades, I credit it to my religious finger warm-up routine. I spend 20–40 minutes rubbing my finger joints, usually while on the stairmaster. It’s perfect — the built-in timer lets me rotate on each finger for 1–2 minutes, and the stair-stepping keeps my hiking legs in shape. I’ve noticed my fingers are much more resilient to the load afterward. As for crack climbing — the nerve pain and neuropathy are still there, so I only do it when I can’t resist the temptation. I’ve learned to rely on ibuprofen to take the edge off. The nice thing is, the muscle memory stays with me. Recently, I floated up a challenging OW I hadn’t touched in years, and an onlooker actually offered to pay me for crack climbing lessons. (October update: 2 sessions down!) Haha — maybe that’s the start of a new career now that I’m officially out of a job! I think the general sentiment in the thread is that following our passion t is important even if we sometimes need some tweaking or outside intervention. Thanks all for the great insight! |
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Hi Mei, I have been climbing for most of my life and am now 78 with 67 years of fun after my first lead climb. I am hopeful of climbing for a while longer and wanted to share a few of the things I think are important for a long climbing life. For fingers, I think the most important thing is to climb open handed instead of crimping. I find a lot of older climbers crimp everything and many years ago I moved to the three finger drag or at worst a half crimp and found that my fingers stopped hurting. I also find some way to engage my thumb on almost any hold. Another thing that helps longevity is better technique. A lot of older climbers climb very straight in to the wall with not much rotation. I have had a lot of coaching over the last 30 years in modern technique, rotating into the wall to engage glutes and lats, a lot of straight arm movement, heel and toe hooks, flagging, etc. Not only does modern movement make one a better climber but it also moves the stress points in our bodies from small easy to hurt muscles to an emphasis on the bigger muscle and tendon groups. I am still climbing in the middle 12 range and find that consistent weight room workouts are important to maintain power. I do almost no finger board work as I usually fall off due to overall body and aerobic fitness father than being able to hold on to a small crimp. "Climb Strong" has a theory about training the Alactic portion of muscle use which is typically 10 seconds of all in power followed by 50 seconds of rest. This method of training allows me to have a much shorter recovery period after a strenght workout. Climb Strong has videos about this Alactic zone training. Recovery is the biggest problem for older climbers as I need more rest the older I get. I think that A good training program and coaching have done a lot to keep me going as well as the usual things of diet, sleep, and not to much alcohol. I plan to never quit. Jamie |
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Menlove Edwards |
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The worst injuries I have had: |
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In light of what Jamie (a legend!) said up-thread, does anyone have any experience with a climbing coach who is skilled at working with old fart climbers? My experience has been that twenty-something coaches don’t really get the relationship between appropriate intensity/volume for adaptation, need for “prehab” and adequate rest. |
philip bonewrote: Philip, please explain this reference in the context of this thread. I don't think Edwards' underlying issues had anything to do with him continuing to climb at any point. Let alone that even on this 'Over 50' thread, there are likely only a handful who have any knowledge as to who Edwards was. |
