Endurance Training for Hangboard

Hey all, I'm looking for some advice on getting endurance training out of my hang boarding. I can climb up to around 5.11b but not for long and I really want to change that, I just get way too pumped out afterwards. I cant really go to a climbing gym and I don't have anywhere outside close enough to go to consistently, does anyone have a training plan for endurance through just hang boarding or even some other at home exercises? I've also though about getting some of those hand grip trainers to help as well, does anyone have any experience with those?

Is getting a mini moonboard or building a woody possible?

Grip trainers for endurance might work at the 5.11 level. I find cARCing to be a hand bruising affair though.

I’ve had good results with 10-5 repeaters on jugs, but that’s mostly helped open handed positions used for crack climbing

Here's a decent explanation of repeaters. I've had good results in the past.

Be sure to warm up even more thoroughly than you think you need to. 

If you're unfamiliar, check out the Crimpd app (there's a free and paid version). They have workouts structured by energy system, including hangboard workouts. I've done their endurance structure a few cycles and find it works well. 

John Clarkwrote:

Is getting a mini moonboard or building a woody possible?

Unfortunately not, I'm currently in an apartment so major modifications are a no go and space is very limited at the moment

Chris Johnsonwrote:

If you're unfamiliar, check out the Crimpd app (there's a free and paid version). They have workouts structured by energy system, including hangboard workouts. I've done their endurance structure a few cycles and find it works well. 

I'll definitely check that out! Is the paid version worth it? I used to pay for a gym before i moved so I wouldn't totally be opposed to spending some money if it would be genuinely useful.

F r i t zwrote:

Here's a decent explanation of repeaters. I've had good results in the past.

Be sure to warm up even more thoroughly than you think you need to. 

This looks great, I cant wait to try it out, thank you!

Colton Cappswrote:

Unfortunately not, I'm currently in an apartment so major modifications are a no go and space is very limited at the moment

How limited is the space? Could you accommodate something 4 feet wide, 7 feet tall, and 6 feet long for the base? 

WF WF51wrote:

How limited is the space? Could you accommodate something 4 feet wide, 7 feet tall, and 6 feet long for the base? 

A freestanding micro-spraywall? Color me curious. Just one sheet of ply in "portrait mode" at 40 degrees? 

F r i t zwrote:

A freestanding micro-spraywall? Color me curious. Just one sheet of ply in "portrait mode" at 40 degrees? 

Yes, freestanding, I've had several. It's easy to make it adjustable so that the angle can be changed. I don't know if it would help the author of this thread train his endurance. But I've found that using this setup and doing 5-10 minutes on it worked, and I still do it. I've tried the repeater protocols. Not for me, but I can't see how they wouldn't be effective. Good luck. 

Colton Cappswrote:

I'll definitely check that out! Is the paid version worth it? I used to pay for a gym before i moved so I wouldn't totally be opposed to spending some money if it would be genuinely useful.

I don't know, I've only used the free app. I know the paid gets you some additional workouts and maybe some other stuff? 

Put in a free standing Mini Moonboard and sleep on the pads.

WF WF51wrote:

How limited is the space? Could you accommodate something 4 feet wide, 7 feet tall, and 6 feet long for the base? 

Unfortunately I genuinely cant, my kitchen cant even fit a microwave if I want a counter if that gives a good reference

Colton Cappswrote:

Unfortunately I genuinely cant, my kitchen cant even fit a microwave if I want a counter if that gives a good reference

That's too bad. I'm sure you'll find a way to train, and there are a lot of hangboard endurance programs out there. Good luck. 

You can build endurance on a hangboard if you keep the intensity low and the time high. Do repeaters on bigger edges, something like seven seconds on and three seconds off for several rounds. Keep your shoulders tight and stop before your form breaks. Add easy pull ups or wall sits between sets to raise your heart rate a bit. Grip trainers help your forearms, but they do not replace time hanging on real edges.