New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #39

James Harvey wrote:

I love Zion

Such a beautiful place! Went there in the mid 90’s with a dream of a free climbing Touchstone Wall. Didn’t get very far but had a lot of fun playing around on that cliff. The rock leaves something to be desired…and takes some getting used to. The free version was eventually completed by Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem in 2006 at 5.13b.

Touchstone Wall

dragonswrote:

Li Hu, Alan, and Gabe, re Henderson Ridge: Indeed, my comment was an inside joke about "The Stairmaster". That is a short set of rock stairs that lead from the lower Gunks parking lot to the Carriage Road.

We don't have much in the way of elevation gains here. So for training I will need to do "pointless-up-and-downs" (PUDs). The Stairmaster goes up maybe 400 feet or so? How many times would I need to go up and down that to get something equivalent to the hike up to the Henderson Ridge? I've been trying to find out exactly what that hike is like, but the actual numbers are hard to find.

The Henderson Ridge approach is via the Huntington Ravine Trail (HRT). It looks like you do maybe 1500 feet of elevation gain before bushwhacking up and off to find the Ridge. Over maybe 3 miles of hiking in? So in fact, maybe just a few hikes up and down the Stairmaster with a pack is good training for this route, and then some more PUDs over to our Millbrook Trail for additional elevation gain and mileage. I will have to do more research to see if I'm correct. If I am, then I feel more assured that I can do this adventure climb in one day without breaking into millions of pieces.

I don't like the idea of having to hike in with enough gear for an overnight. I suppose that could be fun too, but a lot of extra weight. My goal is to get it done in one day. I'm hoping that Buck, Bill, and I (and potentially an extra person or two) might get together and do this one next year when the days are longer. If we do it, I will make an effort to chronicle it and post up pics. I've never done anything remotely like this, so it will take some research.

Much of the ( largely shared) walk into both Huntington and Tuckerman's Ravines, is basically on a relatively gently uphill dirt road ( used by snowcats in winter). It is only the last bit--before heading over towards the ridge--maybe 1/4 mile, that is rougher,

GabeOwrote:

From the previous thread:

 I've come to learn over the years that being weird and awkward are two things I like best in both climbs, and climbers.    

Right there with you, Gabe!

As Kerouac said, "The only people for me are the mad ones, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars and in the middle you see the blue centerlight pop and everybody goes “Awww!”"

So love that passage.

As for my hike, I've been staying in okay shape with jogging and cycling but have missed the hiking!  But my kiddos would have run circles around me on the hike so all in good measure!  

I don't mind going slower and steadier than I used to when I know that I am not holding other people up.  The old adage about becoming a diesel engine seems to be holding true for me these days.  I cannot go as fast as I used to but I seem to be able to just go steady for a long time.

Hoping to get out again this upcoming weekend!

This time of year is so great for it with the cooler weather and the almost non-existent mosquitos!

And I am really looking forward to this Henderson Ridge trip next summer!

I'll probably car camp the night before and if we go slow and steady with a true "alpine" start in mid-summer, we should have plenty of time to get it done.

Edit to add another fun photo from the hike and a goofy-arse one of me on one of the summits!

Hey dragons, I think you've started something.  I went to do Easy Keyhole one day last week -- occupied all three times with parties puzzling over the starting moves.  Among other things, we did Yale -- my first time in about 40 years.  That loose block seems about the same to me, by the way.

dragonswrote:

I don't like the idea of having to hike in with enough gear for an overnight. I suppose that could be fun too, but a lot of extra weight. My goal is to get it done in one day. I'm hoping that Buck, Bill, and I (and potentially an extra person or two) might get together and do this one next year when the days are longer. If we do it, I will make an effort to chronicle it and post up pics. I've never done anything remotely like this, so it will take some research.

Hi Dragons, you definitely have the right idea regarding carrying weight in the mountains. I’m not sure what your current set up for cragging is but you may consider looking into a lightweight and compact alpine harness. Petzl and Blue Ice have some great options. It’s also possible to save weight with lightweight biners, cams, ropes etc. The Henderson Ridge is also pretty slabby and not too edgy so you may enjoy climbing it in a nice pair of approach shoes. La Sportiva has some great models that are great for hikes and scrambles and mellow climbs. Not carrying climbing shoes will save a pound of weight and free up space in your alpine pack. It’s a great time to be pushing it out there up in the mountains, the gear has never been better or lighter. Have fun!

Bob Gaineswrote:

Such a beautiful place! Went there in the mid 90’s with a dream of a free climbing Touchstone Wall. Didn’t get very far but had a lot of fun playing around on that cliff. The rock leaves something to be desired…and takes some getting used to. The free version was eventually completed by Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem in 2006 at 5.13b.

Touchstone Wall

Nice photo Bob. I did a very early ascent of Touchstone before the first pitch was moved around the corner and turned in to a bolt/pin ladder. The first pitch was unique in that Ron pounded a railroad spike in to one hole but then there was a section of very soft rock A4 after that. The last pitch of the wall was climbing a tree and then penduluming over to the wall again to finish.
I remember another time we took a bunch of fireworks up Monkey finger and shot them off the bivy ledge for our friends delight down below.
Fun days in Zion. Used to be you could pull in to the campground anytime and there would be only a very few campers. Times change!

Li Huwrote:

On the climbing front, I plan to get on the Vampire early October. Cross fingers. My buddy just had his aas kicked on The Consolation. 

Li - Have you been getting tuned up on Idyllwild granite this season?  Vampire can be a pain to get off of depending on how far you make it.

I did a very early ascent of Touchstone before the first pitch was moved around the corner and turned in to a bolt/pin ladder. The first pitch was unique in that Ron pounded a railroad spike in to one hole but then there was a section of very soft rock A4 after that.

I remember leading that pitch.  That spike was huge (and fairly solid).

Weird to think that ol' Ron-bo isn't around anymore.  Legacy of pretty fun and classic routes for sure.

Murfwrote:

Li - Have you been getting tuned up on Idyllwild granite this season?  Vampire can be a pain to get off of depending on how far you make it.

That’s sort of why I’m hiring a guide. That, and I’m old, but doing a ton of finger cracks.

Ron was certainly the master of the top step. Clipping his drilled angles is  often no easy feat... 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Ron was certainly the master of the top step. Clipping his drilled angles is  often no easy feat... 

Yep.  He promoted a technique for top stepping called T stack, or T stepping...teeing off...  Amazing how spread out his placements were given his diminutive stature.  

His friend Layton could set placements way apart too.  I popped a Kor rivet on a route that I had to stretch and stick clip (fell onto an old, cracked fixed angle...scared me!).  Layton was pretty darn tall.

Brian in SLCwrote:

Yep.  He promoted a technique for top stepping called T stack, or T stepping...teeing off...  Amazing how spread out his placements were given his diminutive stature.  

His friend Layton could set placements way apart too.  I popped a Kor rivet on a route that I had to stretch and stick clip (fell onto an old, cracked fixed angle...scared me!).  Layton was pretty darn tall.

I think Layton was 6'4" or close to that. I can picture Ron and him as a true 'Mutt and Jeff' team!!!!

Norm Larson: "Fun days in Zion. Used to be you could pull in to the campground anytime and there would be only a very few campers. Times change!"

Go back far enough, say 1962, and you could climb the metal scaffolding up the side of Angels Landing.  That was fun.

John Gillwrote:

Norm Larson: "Fun days in Zion. Used to be you could pull in to the campground anytime and there would be only a very few campers. Times change!"

Go back far enough, say 1962, and you could climb the metal scaffolding up the side of Angels Landing.  That was fun.

Not familiar with what the metal scaffolding was John tell me more please.

Another fun hike that they decommissioned was Lady Mountain. When I first did it there was quite a bit of hardware still in place (similar to present Angel Landing trail) but the park later cleaned it up.

Norm Larsonwrote:

Not familiar with what the metal scaffolding was John tell me more please.

Another fun hike that they decommissioned was Lady Mountain. When I first did it there was quite a bit of hardware still in place (similar to present Angel Landing trail) but the park later cleaned it up.

I think there's been pipe and chain to the summit past the scout lookout since they constructed the trail in the 20's/30's.  Crowded in most seasons.  Still a marquee hike in Zion.

Lady Mountain is super.  Route on the proj:

Lady Mountain original route

Tom has a nice description of it (and many other adventures in Zion):

CUSA description of Lady Mountain route

Really fun and a nice gig for folks wanting a nice day with minimal climbing gear.

Even though the Zion front country has become wicked crowded in recent years...its still an amazing place.

Morning walk and the color of autumn has arrived.

Norm, I had just departed the USAF that year and drove to Zion. I just recall metal scaffolding with an enclosed narrow metal stairs that led to the the top, I think. I got a little exercise by climbing the outside of the thing. Many years later my wife and I followed the trail to the top.

A new day dawns.

Disney put Kimmel back on last night. Sounds like Kimmel did some poking at Trump. Anybody catch the monologue?

Brian in SLCwrote:

 has become wicked crowded 

"Wicked" crowded, eh???

Are you originally from the Northeast???

I have lived all over the US and the world but grew up in northern Vermont and we always said "wicked" but I have not heard it much out of that region!