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Best Crack Climbs in New England??

Ben g · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 0

on the loose! Best 5.9 in the daks ;) 

Ben V · · Central Maine · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 2,011

Lots of great routes mentioned above. 

The Wind in the Willows variation of the Armadillo on Katahdin is very good. 

My friend and I also climbed what we think is a new route on the left side of the Armadillo Buttress that follows a continuous crack for 200 ft called Wild Beasts and Birds. 

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

In Acadia, 

at South Wall: Emigrant crack, high wire, dynamo hum, wet Lithuanian, jaws, Connecticut cracks, chitlins corner, fear of flying,

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Lots of good stuff in the Daks. 

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,311

"Catatonic" (12a), Cat Mountain, Adirondacks.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116494172/catatonic

(I know, NY isn't technically part of New England...)

samuel von hammerstien · · North Conway, NH · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 701

Watering Hole and Screaming Yellow Zonkers at Woodchuck Ledge. 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Zion Dreams at Holts ledge NH 10+ 100ft is the most authentic wide desert style crack in the NE that I am aware of.  Gnarly and you get to bump the #5. it's on the far left side of the cliff. 

Andy Casler · · Canterbury, NH · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 816

The Possessed at Cathedral! Farewell Angelina and Hidden Treasure at Eagle Cliff, Franconia Notch 

Maxwell Hvolbek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 10

Best squeeze chimneys in New England? Got any recs?

Recently got worked by the McCarthy offwidth finish variation to Fastest Gun. Looking for more squeeze practice.

Boreal Strut · · NH · Joined May 2025 · Points: 10
Maxwell Hvolbekwrote:

Best squeeze chimneys in New England? Got any recs?

Recently got worked by the McCarthy offwidth finish variation to Fastest Gun. Looking for more squeeze practice.

There's a big ol one at Shell Pond 

Grant Simmons · · North Conway, NH · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 250

After just returning from a visit to Netanis Perch/Chain of Ponds, it is definitely worth noting the awesome collection of 5.9 - 5.11 cracks that are found there.  A particular highlight was the Left Mystery Route - that one really shines as an incredible pitch of climbing.

Another route that needs to be added to the ongoing collection is Acadia's Legion of Decency.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Maxwell. Zion dreams @holts. #5 chimney..

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 517
Maxwell Hvolbekwrote:

Best squeeze chimneys in New England? Got any recs?

Recently got worked by the McCarthy offwidth finish variation to Fastest Gun. Looking for more squeeze practice.

This thread has a list I made of offwidths and some links to previous crack threads.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123641575/northern-new-england-offwidth-hardman-circuit

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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