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Does elevation affect climbing grades?

Original Post
Daniel S · · San Jose · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 78

I was surprised to find no discussion of this after googling and using MP search.

Would a certain pitch's grade be lower if they were brought from 14,000 ft to sea level, or vice versa?

Or is a climbing grade meant to only describe the rock itself, and not the condition of the people climbing it (reduced strength and stamina at altitude)?

Jeremiah White · · Colorado Springs · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 231

Acclimation is just another excuse to put on the the Fell/hung tick, don't stress about it.

Andrew Giniat · · Asheville, NC · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 61

I've thought about this and it probably does scale a little bit with altitude because grades are subjective; nobody is up on the diamond measuring crimps and saying, oh this move is on a half-pad edge, has to be x-grade. 

Also, from an exercise-physiology perspective we're obviously more aerobically limited so a climber is going to get less back between hard moves but the hard moves themselves are probably fueled by anaerobic metabolism and therefore not as limited? This is all to say, I don't know that climbing sees as much of a reduction in performance as compared to endurance sports at altitude. 

Natalie Blackburn · · Oakland, CA · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 210

It sure affects the approach.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

Yes, all those 5.12 and 5.13's in the Trango towers would be 5.8 at sea level

Nick Locke · · Redmond, OR · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 25
Kevin Mokracekwrote:

Yes, all those 5.12 and 5.13's in the Trango towers would be 5.8 at sea level

Lol what Kevin said.

Though I do find alpine grades to be frequently soft. I've found myself on-sighting the occasional mid 5.12 in the alpine and projecting it at the sport crag. I think it's more to do with people being all gripped/worked in the mountains then elevation (at least in the lower 48).

Redacted Redactberg · · "a world travella" · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 27

So how would grades on mars look? It’s one third the gravity, but no air to breathe? On the one hand you’re suffocating, unless you’re using an oxygen tank, which is aid, but on the other hand, every day is a low gravity day.

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Yes. The Higher, the Fewer.

Wren Cooperrider · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 420

I'm not sure it matters that much since you'll never find the exact same route at a different altitude, so it might be as well be as much a part of the climb as the holds themselves or the angle of the rock

Ryan Lynch · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

I think the people who are really sweating about fine grade distinctions are mostly not going to bother with the approaches and logistics required to get to those altitudes... If high altitude redpoints become a sudden trend on social media, I expect they're gonna start arguing about it.

But traditionally, the problem kinda solves itself.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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