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How To Get Asked Out on a Second Date
Philippe Queirozwrote: Sorry Philippe, he's joking. It's American sarcasm at its finest. Unless you've just played me... |
Charles Iguanawrote: F. Wish i was.. |
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Still one of the best links people could stand to learn from |
Nick Hahawrote: Could use some updating... I've now given three clinics about seconding issues based on that post. |
rgoldwrote: Maybe you should start another good one like this. What were the major issues you talked about , do you mind explaining ? |
Nick Hahawrote: DM me and I'll send a write-up summarizing some of the first clinic. Since then I've done more updating but haven't had the time/energy to change the write-up. |
rgoldwrote: I really appreciate you taking time to send me that, I look forward to reading it. DM sent |
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HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!! |
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How To Discover You Really Aren’t That Into Climbing Anyway |
eli posswrote: take this with a grain of salt as i have limited experience with multi-pitch: if you don't have anything else to do while your partner is pulling the rope from the previous rappel you should start feeding the free end through the next set of rings/links. and don't forget the put a stopper knot in the ends. i would suggest a double overhand for such a knot Also if you don't want to shell out the money for a PAS such as sterling reactor, you can make a very strong, slightly dynamic PAS by getting some 1" tubular webbing and tying in a loop via either water knot or, even better, double fishermans. if you tie it with a double fishermans, it will likely be stronger in tensile strength to the PAS. rgold correct me if i'm wrong but a double fishermans conserves 80% strength in nylon: 22kn * 2 * 80%= 35.2kns Having a PAS tied from tubular webbing would be the mother of all red flags... |
rgoldwrote:Then there is the issue of the safety of a knotted dyneema sling used as a tether. I'd at least recommend a nylon sling for this purpose. Can you explain this some more? Or link to relevant resources? What is the safety issue? Thank you for your time. |
Wictor Dahlströmwrote: You would be dead wrong about that. All us old trad dads that have mentored over the years started off tying everything before sewn runners even existed as a business model. If you come across someone with that much experience be prepared to take notes. |
Neil Lwrote: Many sources recommend against knotting dyneema into loops because it’s slick and the knot could slip. nylon webbing or cord grips better when knotted into loops. iirc anyway. |
Neil Lwrote: There are two issues. One is the problem of securely knotting Dyneema. The other is that Dyneema is relatively static, so falling on a Dyneema tether will produce higher loads to the anchor and the body than you'd get with a nylon tether, and higher loads mean reduced safety. |
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Making a runner out of dyneema with a water knot is a bad idea since it's slick and the whole thing could come undone, but I don't see an issue with putting knots down the length of a sewn sling as a tether to have multiple clip in options as long as you're clipping it correctly. I don't care if a knot slips a centimer lower in that case. I use the rope as a tether while climbing, but for tying in during rappel switchovers I'd use any sling and add a knot if it was a hanging belay and I wanted a specific length, I'd never fall more than a couple inches onto it. |
