How To Get Asked Out on a Second Date

Philippe Queirozwrote:

please, link?? tried to find with no success

Sorry Philippe, he's joking. It's American sarcasm at its finest.

Unless you've just played me...

Charles Iguanawrote:

Sorry Philippe, he's joking. It's American sarcasm at its finest.

Unless you've just played me...

F. 

Wish i was.. 

Still one of the best links people could stand to learn from

Nick Hahawrote:

Still one of the best links people could stand to learn from

Could use some updating...

I've now given three clinics about seconding issues based on that post.

rgoldwrote:

Could use some updating...

I've now given three clinics about seconding issues based on that post.

Maybe you should start another good one like this. What were the major issues you talked about , do you mind explaining ?

Nick Hahawrote:

Maybe you should start another good one like this. What were the major issues you talked about , do you mind explaining ?

DM me and I'll send a write-up summarizing some of the first clinic.  Since then I've done more updating but haven't had the time/energy to change the write-up.

rgoldwrote:

DM me and I'll send a write-up summarizing some of the first clinic.  Since then I've done more updating but haven't had the time/energy to change the write-up.

I really appreciate you taking time to send me that, I look forward to reading it. DM sent

HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!

How To Discover You Really Aren’t That Into Climbing Anyway

eli posswrote: take this with a grain of salt as i have limited experience with multi-pitch: if you don't have anything else to do while your partner is pulling the rope from the previous rappel you should start feeding the free end through the next set of rings/links. and don't forget the put a stopper knot in the ends. i would suggest a double overhand for such a knot Also if you don't want to shell out the money for a PAS such as sterling reactor, you can make a very strong, slightly dynamic PAS by getting some 1" tubular webbing and tying in a loop via either water knot or, even better, double fishermans. if you tie it with a double fishermans, it will likely be stronger in tensile strength to the PAS. rgold correct me if i'm wrong but a double fishermans conserves 80% strength in nylon: 22kn * 2 * 80%= 35.2kns

Having a PAS tied from tubular webbing would be the mother of all red flags...

rgoldwrote:Then there is the issue of the safety of a knotted dyneema sling used as a tether. I'd at least recommend a nylon sling for this purpose.

Can you explain this some more? Or link to relevant resources? What is the safety issue? Thank you for your time.

Wictor Dahlströmwrote:

Having a PAS tied from tubular webbing would be the mother of all red flags...

You would be dead wrong about that.

All us old trad dads that have mentored over the years started off tying everything before sewn runners even existed as a business model.

If you come across someone with that much experience be prepared to take notes.

Neil Lwrote:

Can you explain this some more? Or link to relevant resources? What is the safety issue? Thank you for your time.

Many sources recommend against knotting dyneema into loops because it’s slick and the knot could slip.

nylon webbing or cord grips better when knotted into loops.

iirc anyway.

Neil Lwrote:

Can you explain this some more? Or link to relevant resources? What is the safety issue? Thank you for your time.

There are two issues.  One is the problem of securely knotting Dyneema.  The other is that Dyneema is relatively static, so falling on a Dyneema tether will produce higher loads to the anchor and the body than you'd get with a nylon tether, and higher loads mean reduced safety.

Making a runner out of dyneema with a water knot is a bad idea since it's slick and the whole thing could come undone, but I don't see an issue with putting knots down the length of a sewn sling as a tether to have multiple clip in options as long as you're clipping it correctly. I don't care if a knot slips a centimer lower in that case. I use the rope as a tether while climbing, but for tying in during rappel switchovers I'd use any sling and add a knot if it was a hanging belay and I wanted a specific length, I'd never fall more than a couple inches onto it.

My head is about to explode. The advice is certainly accurate, but there is too much text. By the time I got to point 5, I had already forgotten what the first point was about.

Lucas Romerowrote:

My head is about to explode. The advice is certainly accurate, but there is too much text. By the time I got to point 5, I had already forgotten what the first point was about.

Not everything can be made simple and concise. There is a lot to consider when first getting into multipitch. People write entire books and teach 8 hour courses about it. If you’re forgetting the earlier points, you can reread them, and if you are overwhelmed, you can break this into pieces and read over multiple sessions, but the problem isn’t with the amount of text.

I say this with sympathy, and often have to use the same strategies when I’m struggling with learning/reading about other topics. I read this post multiple times as a beginner and appreciated having all these tips in a single place. RGold has a lot of knowledge to share, and his username reflects the fact that all of his posts “are gold” (I’ll see myself out now).

This a great thread with lots of good info. I’m pretty sure I posted something when the thread first started but I can’t remember what it was… and I admit to not going back and reading through everything, so maybe these points have already been covered…

1. You can determine a lot about a new rope partner just by how they tie in to the rope. Do they tie in leaving a huge loop way bigger than their belay loop? Do they tie in leaving excessively long tail. (Both of the latter have led to incidents/accidents). Do they struggle to figure out how much rope they need to make the knot? Or, do they tie in quickly, efficiently, with a loop sized similar to the belay loop, no excessive tail, and (bonus if using figure 8) do they realize there is a way of tying it that is easier to get it undone after loading? I’m also a fan of the Yosemite finish, but don’t consider that a deal breaker (unless done incorrectly). Anyway, for newbies wanting a second date, make sure you can tie in properly and quickly.

2. When belaying, is my new partner paying attention and adjusting the amount of slack based on the leader’s situation? So many new belayers don’t seem to be thinking of what would happen in case of a lead fall… too much slack and the leader could hit a ledge… too tight and you can pull on the leader or slam her into an overhang in a fall… and how about knowing when a soft catch might be appropriate and when it is not? Where should you stand when belaying from the ground and why/when should you change your spot. Also… I don’t like being short roped when I’m clipping, but I also don’t want to look down to see the rope drooping on the ground, belayer a mile away from the wall. There are so many considerations as a belayer… Try to constantly be thinking, “What would happen if my leader fell right now?” So, for newbies wanting a second date, either get proficient at belaying the leader, or at least have the humility to be open to learning and ask for input.

These were just  a couple of things that came to me as I climbed with a few newer folks recently.