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Pre-clipped Protection.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Mark Pilatewrote:

Yeah, I’ve hesitated to respond because I’m not sure what Ken’s angle is…..other than obtuse

(Ba dump tchsssss)

 Calling someone obtuse is a clear violation of guideline 1. Sanitation squad scrubbed around 15 posts from this thread

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
amariuswrote:

 Calling someone obtuse is a clear violation of guideline 1. Sanitation squad scrubbed around 15 posts from this thread

Ahhh, but I did not call him obtuse, I implied his angle in the thread was obtuse.  Huuuuge but subtle difference.  

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Mark Pilatewrote:

Ahhh, but I did not call him obtuse, I implied his angle in the thread was obtuse.  Huuuuge but subtle difference.  

Excellent!

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150
Mark Pilatewrote:

Ahhh, but I did not call him obtuse, I implied his angle in the thread was obtuse.  Huuuuge but subtle difference.  

We all know you want to keep your comments anchored less than 90 degree.  I prefer no greater than 60 degrees.

Also, watch out for extension. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Chad Millerwrote:

Is this a bit?  If so I commend your dedication  

If not…

Out of morbid curiosity I looked at his post history - 23 comments since joining in 2018. The inability for him to type a response below the item he quoted is apparently real, not recent, and not a bit.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150
Marc801 Cwrote:

Out of morbid curiosity I looked at his post history - 23 comments since joining in 2018. The inability for him to type a response below the item he quoted is apparently real, not recent, and not a bit.

Yup. It’s concerning for some reason. 

Ken Phillips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0
Mark Pilatewrote:

Yeah, I’ve hesitated to respond because I’m not sure what Ken’s angle is…..other than obtuse

(Ba dump tchsssss)

This is "Climbing Discussion",right?..I post a coupla' my Views,and  all you Posters do is change the subject,and DogPile Me.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150
Ken Phillipswrote:

This is "Climbing Discussion",right?..I post a coupla' my Views,and  all you Posters do is change the subject,and DogPile Me.

You managed to quote someone on the first try!  

Good job!  

Seriously though. No one is dog piling on you. People are just disagreeing with you.  It’s just that your opinions are about as well thought out and structured as your previous attempts to quote posts. 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142

I just got home from a long trip and I have a huge amount of tedious work I need to do...so instead I'll amuse myself my posting on MP

Ken Phillipswrote:

Is'nt that what you try for.Good "style".....?

No, I don't give a shit about my style.  I climb as well as I can in the moment, and it's great to do an onsight, but I have no interest in getting hurt and if it's a choice between a sketchy move that could mean me breaking an ankle, or pulling on a piece of gear, I'll go for the A0. 

I don't climb any more ,

that's fine

but I still follow the Climbing Scene...

I climb all the time and the only information about the "Climbing Scene" I have comes from Mountain Project or the stuff that comes up in my Facebook feed.  Which I then ignore because it typically has nothing to do with me. But to each their own.  Plenty of people seem to find these videos interesting and entertaining so you are not alone.

On most of these Videos of Climbs I see,they have been pre-Clipped.in order to make a Route do-able.Other wise why would pre-clipping be necessary?. Who does the Pre=clipping?.

The clipped draws are not to make the route do-able. It is not because it is necessary.  That is just one of the styles people use. If it was important to them and of interest to them to do a route that they have already rehearsed in that style, then they would clean the draws and place them on the ascent again.  But nobody cares.  People climbing at every level do plenty of onsight, placing one's own gear routes. Yes that is a great feeling.  But if the route is hard enough that it takes some falls and some repetition, the style often changes.  People do it in the styles that matter to them.

There are very common circumstances for "pre-clipped gear" as you are calling it.  One that I use sometimes is using a stick clip on a sport climb with a very steep start or a high first bolt.  Again, my first principle is "don't break an ankle".  Some people think this changes the purity of the ascent, and that is their choice when they are leading.  Not only do I not care about my own style, I don't care what other people think about my style.

The other common circumstance is when one person leads a route, and the other person feels it would give them more satisfaction to lead the same route rather than following it.  So typically, the first person lowers and the rope is pulled and the second person releads the route, using "pre-clipped gear". Almost no one bothers to clean the gear and then re-place it.  You could do that, but it's not typical. Because they don't care about that style distinction.

Hope this addresses some of your questions.

X Foliator · · AnCapistan · Joined Feb 2025 · Points: 0
phylp phylpwrote:

I just got home from a long trip and I have a huge amount of tedious work I need to do...so instead I'll amuse myself my posting on MP

No, I don't give a shit about my style.  I climb as well as I can in the moment, and it's great to do an onsight, but I have no interest in getting hurt and if it's a choice between a sketchy move that could mean me breaking an ankle, or pulling on a piece of gear, I'll go for the A0. 

that's fine

I climb all the time and the only information about the "Climbing Scene" I have comes from Mountain Project or the stuff that comes up in my Facebook feed.  Which I then ignore because it typically has nothing to do with me. But to each their own.  Plenty of people seem to find these videos interesting and entertaining so you are not alone.

The clipped draws are not to make the route do-able. It is not because it is necessary.  That is just one of the styles people use. If it was important to them and of interest to them to do a route that they have already rehearsed in that style, then they would clean the draws and place them on the ascent again.  But nobody cares.  People climbing at every level do plenty of onsight, placing one's own gear routes. Yes that is a great feeling.  But if the route is hard enough that it takes some falls and some repetition, the style often changes.  People do it in the styles that matter to them.

There are very common circumstances for "pre-clipped gear" as you are calling it.  One that I use sometimes is using a stick clip on a sport climb with a very steep start or a high first bolt.  Again, my first principle is "don't break an ankle".  Some people think this changes the purity of the ascent, and that is their choice when they are leading.  Not only do I not care about my own style, I don't care what other people think about my style.

The other common circumstance is when one person leads a route, and the other person feels it would give them more satisfaction to lead the same route rather than following it.  So typically, the first person lowers and the rope is pulled and the second person releads the route, using "pre-clipped gear". Almost no one bothers to clean the gear and then re-place it.  You could do that, but it's not typical. Because they don't care about that style distinction.

Hope this addresses some of your questions.

I'm pretty sure this is a Quote Function mastery flex

Redacted Redactberg · · "a world travella" · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 27
Ken Phillipswrote:

Doesn't that degrade/lower a Route? I think it does.

Route’s already degraded because it has been pegged many times along its length. Some people like a good, tight spaced, frequent pegging, others like fewer peggings, or none at all. It all depends on what you’re into.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Redacted Redactbergwrote:

Route’s already degraded because it has been pegged many times along its length. Some people like a good, tight spaced, frequent pegging, others like fewer peggings, or none at all. It all depends on what you’re into.

What is happening? This was posted 8 hours ago, and is still up? The sanitation squad is slipping 

Redacted Redactberg · · "a world travella" · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 27
amariuswrote:

What is happening? This was posted 8 hours ago, and is still up? The sanitation squad is slipping 

Sssshhhhhhh ;)

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Redacted Redactbergwrote:

Sssshhhhhhh ;)

 She Got the Bosch, I Got Drilled  ;)

Ken Phillips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0
Ken Phillipswrote:

Doesn't that degrade/lower a Route? I think it does.

I just came over from "Trad Climbing".I didn't realize this newer Generation(Gen Z) made so many distinctions/Labels in "Trad" as compared to "Sport Climbing".I see Sport Climbing as taking a Gym Wall to the out of Doors.Where safety is a prerequisite...AKA Pre- clipping. (And a (Go-Pro to Spray your Self on Social Media. .)..Maybe I should have Posted my original Post over on Trad.Since they actually discuss the subject instead of attacking the Views and changing the subject, And leave a Poster to simply defend his self.(you know,attacks on his Character.)...Ken.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150
Ken Phillipswrote:

I just came over from "Trad Climbing".I didn't realize this newer Generation(Gen Z) made so many distinctions/Labels in "Trad" as compared to "Sport Climbing".I see Sport Climbing as taking a Gym Wall to the out of Doors.Where safety is a prerequisite...AKA Pre- clipping. (And a (Go-Pro to Spray your Self on Social Media. .)..Maybe I should have Posted my original Post over on Trad.Since they actually discuss the subject instead of attacking the Views and changing the subject, And leave a Poster to simply defend his self.(you know,attacks on his Character.)...Ken.

You learned to quote yourself.

Good job?  

No one is attacking you, or your views. What you’re experiencing is disagreement. For example:  I’ve primarily climbed trad for 20 years. I don’t think that having pre clipped draws on a sport climb degrades or lowers the route.  

I’d go ahead and post this pre clipped draw question in the trad forum.

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315
Ken Phillipswrote:

I just came over from "Trad Climbing".I didn't realize this newer Generation(Gen Z) made so many distinctions/Labels in "Trad" as compared to "Sport Climbing".I see Sport Climbing as taking a Gym Wall to the out of Doors.Where safety is a prerequisite...AKA Pre- clipping. (And a (Go-Pro to Spray your Self on Social Media. .)..Maybe I should have Posted my original Post over on Trad.Since they actually discuss the subject instead of attacking the Views and changing the subject, And leave a Poster to simply defend his self.(you know,attacks on his Character.)...Ken.

Bots or bot impersonators have no character

Ken Phillips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375
Ken Phillipswrote:

"You’re barely coherent and functional when you’re sober. I wouldn’t expect you to recall much". 

Too many to Quote.....Go fuck yourself.

Well this'll disappear fast.

I'd just like to point out, "prehung" is what you meant, not preclipped. Hung, the draw is up, clipped, the rope is in the draw. The latter is essentially on top rope. It might be that a second is following and cleaning, or it's only a stick clipped first clip.

There's also permadraws out there, don't forget that. 

As to style, well, I'm in the don't give a shit camp, just enjoy climbing. I'll even climb without clipping anything or even a rope. 

H.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150

Ken Phillips wrote:

This is "Climbing Discussion",right?..I post a coupla' my Views,and  all you Posters do is change the subject,and DogPile Me

Ken Phillipswrote:

"You’re barely coherent and functional when you’re sober. I wouldn’t expect you to recall much". 

Too many to Quote.....Go fuck yourself.

You’re attacking me for my views on the subject.    

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