New and experienced climbers over 50 #37

Alan Rubinwrote:

Buck---quite an ambitious day you have lined up---especially in our current 'not exactly ideal' conditions here in the Northeast. 

Yeah, most likely Delusions of Grandeur on my part ... again!

But one can hope!!!

For the new England contingent:  Wob Wob Sayeth the Loady.  cant recall where the photo was taken, but thinking L Woods or maybe the northwest buttress of Diamond Hill based on the route name.

Brian Boydwrote:

For the new England contingent:  Wob Wob Sayeth the Loady.  cant recall where the photo was taken, but thinking L Woods or maybe the northwest buttress of Diamond Hill based on the route name.

Well as the southern Rhode Island contingent would say “Whaaa?”  Looks like Shelf Road.

Buck Rogerswrote:

Ha!  Brilliant!

Be honest, Dragons, you're talking about me here!

Right, right, that never happens to me!....

Brian Boydwrote:

For the new England contingent:  Wob Wob Sayeth the Loady.  cant recall where the photo was taken, but thinking L Woods or maybe the northwest buttress of Diamond Hill based on the route name.

Yes, absolutely has that Rhode Island appearance---the state is full of cliffs like that, just very well hidden!!!! And is "Wob, wob..." the actual route name?

"Masshole Wankers" a Rhode Island 5.4 classic.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Yes, absolutely has that Rhode Island appearance---the state is full of cliffs like that, just very well hidden!!!! And is "Wob, wob..." the actual route name?

That was the Rhody Loadies call, just like we had our own, so that they could identify each other at a distance.

Ward Smithwrote:

That was the Rhody Loadies call, just like we had our own, so that they could identify each other at a distance.

Yes, Ward, I know that 'call', but Brian said that the route in the picture had a  'Rhode Island' name but unless that was the name he never said what the actual route name was.

Edit to add. There actually is a 'Rhode Island crag' about that tall and steep in places ( different rock though), however it just happens to be across the border in CT!!!

Brian Boydwrote:

For the new England contingent:  Wob Wob Sayeth the Loady.  cant recall where the photo was taken, but thinking L Woods or maybe the northwest buttress of Diamond Hill based on the route name.

You should have seen it before we pulled all the poison ivy off and the bottom 2/3s had to be dug out by hand.

That looks like utah choss to me

Finally got out after work with a farmer friend. Isa is playing grandma.  This is just 4 miles from my house. rather vegatated but steep and a full 30m. Reed following the 2nd overlap on Chossaholic 9+ at sunset . 

super cool route with two thuggy overhangs, some steep face climbing, great exposure and a finger crack with good stemming to finish. 

busking at the beach a few days ago.

I believe the wob wob call which is answered by wof wof originated in the gunks

There were also wob nuts, clog I think, used by a certain red headed climber who was friends with the loadys 

Good friend is going to lose his job at the GML in Utqiagvik because who needs science? My froggy sense feels the water warming uncomfortably…

Wob wob…. Is the actual route name :)

Celebrating my roots as it were.

I have tried to train several of my modern climbing partners on the call, and have had no luck. 

oldfattradguuy kkwrote:

I believe the wob wob call which is answered by wof wof originated in the gunks

There were also wob nuts, clog I think, used by a certain red headed climber who was friends with the loadys 

Those nuts were called Clog Cogs (image from Vertical Archeology site). They had the wide and narrow options of hexcentrics and an additional camming possibility between the ridges, resulting in better horizontal placements than you could get with hexcentrics.  Very effective in the right hands, but rendered obsolete for most climbers with the advent of cams.  Romano still uses 'em.

 Pronunciation lassitude and/or speech impedimenta resulted in "wog-wogs" and "wob-wobs" and, ultimately, the "wof-wof" response to the "wob-wob" call.

rgoldwrote:

Those nuts were called Clog Cogs (image from Vertical Archeology site). They had the wide and narrow options of hexcentrics and an additional camming possibility between the ridges, resulting in better horizontal placements than you could get with hexcentrics.  Very effective in the right hands, but rendered obsolete for most climbers with the advent of cams.  Romano still uses 'em.

 Pronunciation lassitude and/or speech impedimenta resulted in "wog-wogs" and "wob-wobs" and, ultimately, the "wof-wof" response to the "wob-wob" call.

Awesome RG, that’s about as I remember it.  In his hands they were a formidable weapon, I’ve cleaned many of them.  
it’s worth noting the climbing shoes in RR’s foto, must have been serious terrain for him to wear climbing shoes!  :)

oldfattradguuy kkwrote:

Awesome RG, that’s about as I remember it.  In his hands they were a formidable weapon, I’ve cleaned many of them.  
it’s worth noting the climbing shoes in RR’s foto, must have been serious terrain for him to wear climbing shoes!  :)

RR was/is himself the 'formidable weapon'--everything else ( not that there was usually much else) were just his tools!!!!

oldfattradguuy kkwrote:

Awesome RG, that’s about as I remember it.  In his hands they were a formidable weapon, I’ve cleaned many of them.  
it’s worth noting the climbing shoes in RR’s foto, must have been serious terrain for him to wear climbing shoes!  :)

Sorry I deleted that photo of Rich Romano I posted last night that you were referring to. It was the middle photo in this sequence.

The climb is Rumba Mama 5.10 in what's now M state park from 1978.

Brian Boydwrote:

I have tried to train several of my modern climbing partners on the call, and have had no luck. 

More oven time perhaps?

Some poor rock tomorrow is going to get some new bolts. It is going to be low humidity and 70s up here in New Hampshire, 10 out of 10 for July.  I am still scrabbling down in the boulders, but I have found a new project on the cliff.