Tuolumne Bolt Chopping

Clickbait headline? Perhaps, but worth a read in case someone knows the chopper and can thank/shame them for their efforts, imo.

To the SPD chopper. Thank you for protecting us from overbolting and removing 50% of the bolts on recently established** routes on SPD. I’m really glad that noobs will now *not* have a safe place to learn lead climbing, and can instead go straight to the classics to clog them up *before* they are able to learn the requisite skills. You have truly done the Valley community a service and we all owe you a beer (preferably full, chucked at your fuggin dome), and then some.

I for one agree with the chopper that we should *not* have overly protected routes (that we could all solo in sandals) for new climbers to learn on, especially if said routes are created in places where they bother nobody, aren’t infringing on anything remotely classic, and help mitigate the straight-from-the-gym crowds from jumping right on classics. Bravo to the bolt chopper and his logic, I bow before your superior intellect and thank you again for your service to the community at large. Also, why didn’t you chop at least half the bolts on Turkey Trot, clearly that should also be an affront to your easily offended sensibilities?

** “established” in recent years, by people (not me) willing to put in sweat equity and $ in order to easy congestion at the classics and provide a “swan slabs” area in TM for newer climbers. How dare they…

A true and brave visionary. Bravo.

What routes are you talking about?

Gumby Kingwrote:

What routes are you talking about?

Must be the new easy routes on the far west side of Stately Pleasure, skiers left of the standard walkoff. This one for example:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/121352658/jabberwalky

Is it accurate to say that the old walkoff itself was bolted? If so, seems ripe for conflict. 

JaredGwrote:

Is it accurate to say that the old walkoff itself was bolted? If so, seems ripe for conflict. 

The old walk off has had a couple sets of bolts for a number of years now. The upper ones save a tree and there don’t appear to have been any conflicts about this.

Maybe they needed to learn to chop? They could've  just started with the wheels to their vehicle. Without transportation they shouldn't be nearly as concerned about a few bolts on some easy slab. Personally, I enjoyed the routes as recently established. Anyone have a monkey wrench to use on the perpetrator(s)? 

Terry Ewrote:

The old walk off has had a couple sets of bolts for a number of years now. The upper ones save a tree and there don’t appear to have been any conflicts about this.

Well I know some people were annoyed by those rap stations, but whatever.  What I mean with these climbs is that having people climbing up the main way to get down will cause conflicts.  But it's not clear to me if the routes directly overlap with the walkoff/rapoff.  

JaredGwrote:

Well I know some people were annoyed by those rap stations, but whatever.  What I mean with these climbs is that having people climbing up the main way to get down will cause conflicts.  But it's not clear to me if the routes directly overlap with the walkoff/rapoff.  

There is no overlap between the newer easy routes and the walkoff.

I've never chopped a bolt, but I'm down for chopping climbs if they're shitty, or if they can be down walked in approach shoes hands free. 

My dog free soloed a bolted slab in CA once, she was an awesome crag dog.

Where's Waldenwrote:

I've never chopped a bolt, but I'm down for chopping climbs if… they can be down walked in approach shoes hands free. 

Good, don’t ever, ever complain about gumbies clogging up the easy classic that you’re taking an afternoon solo lap on. 

Also, I love the gatekeeping. Who hurt you when you were learning how to climb?

Gate keeping is a vital conservation process. This is Tuolumne not the gym. Tuolumne is not going to become a gym. Noobs are supposed to clog the classics, that's what makes them classic. 

Gyms also gate keep, btw.

I'm not able to speak to the ethics too well, but the western toe of Stately Pleasure Dome would be super cool for newer leaders. I've climbed routes like Turkey Trot and Far West Country, and they're super. Some of the routes that have had bolts (including anchors) chopped would have been great for early leaders. I like the fact that many Tuolumne routes don't have bolted anchors, etc. But I'm also glad that routes like Zee Tree exist. Not saying that we should retrobolt the Bachar-Yerian! But I was disappointed to show up to the western toe of SPD and find that some of the routes I'd been hoping for my partner (a newer leader) to tackle aren't in the state I thought they would be.

Where's Waldenwrote:

I've never chopped a bolt, but I'm down for chopping climbs if they're shitty, or if they can be down walked in approach shoes hands free. 

Yep. Your testosterone spray and ego are far more important.

(photo is what I believe to be "Fair use" excerpt from Reid & Falkenstein, but if admins don't agree it falls under fair use, let me know and I'll send Donny Reid an email to get permission)

This is the area being discussed, in case people don't know.  C in the topo is White Flake.  A is Far West. I cannot imagine why anyone would care about new route development in this area left of White Flake.  It doesn't abut or encroach on any "classics" because the only classic in that area is Death Crack which is up above.  Turkey Trot was retrobolted with permission of one of the first ascentionists. I haven't gotten over there to see the other new routes but it all seems harmless.  Is this shawn snyder at work again? He pops up periodically and does ridiculous shit.

phylp phylpwrote:

I cannot imagine why anyone would care about new route development in this area left of White Flake.

Same.

 It doesn't abut or encroach on any "classics" because the only classic in that area is Death Crack which is up above.  

Fact check: True.

Is this shawn snyder at work again? He pops up periodically and does ridiculous shit.

I don’t think so, this seems more like a lazy thief. Definitely a solvable problem but still annoying AF to have people like this in the climbing world. 

Where's Waldenwrote:

I've never chopped a bolt, but I'm down for chopping climbs if they're shitty, or if they can be down walked in approach shoes hands free. 

And what for the 4yo kids who love to climb? Or the 18mo old for that matter?

I think someone removed the bolts and hangars because they wanted free bolts and hangars, not because of climbing ethics.

orange piewrote:

I think someone removed the bolts and hangars because they wanted free bolts and hangars, not because of climbing ethics.

Hangers- maybe, bolts- doubt they are reusable. Climbed these routes last year, enjoyed them, nice warm up for Turkey Trot. Had plans to bring my wife up--------

Steph Evanswrote:

And what for the 4yo kids who love to climb? Or the 18mo old for that matter?

 There might be a difference of opinion here, but I personally believe babies should not be lead rock climbing outdoors.