ranking best grip crag

Hi there!

What are in your opinion the best and the worst crags/ areas in terms of quality of the rock and grip.

I'ld put Index in the very first place and probably the grassy Rifle's routes at the bottom of  the list.

How do you rank places as The Gunks,Cochise,Back Canyon,Smith Rocks,Rumney, City of Rocks,etc

Elaine, your account appears to be legit, but that comment is definitely written by AI (90.61% according to zerogpt.com). What gives?

Yukon Corneliuswrote:

Elaine, your account appears to be legit, but that comment is definitely written by AI (90.61% according to zerogpt.com). What gives?

Victor Berg is the bot - not Elaine.  But maybe they are in cahoots...

No climber I've ever met has ever used the phrase "best grip crag." (First red flag)

Has AI already ruined this website, or will AI ruin this website?

Gunks conglomerate is very grippy on your hands. All those pebbles trapped in the quartz matrix make it amazing for those savior jugs that only show when you really need them the most. I can definitely say the same for feet but i feel like granite walls have way better contact on the the rubber.

big cottonwood has the best rock of all time

bryanswrote:

Has AI already ruined this website, or will AI ruin this website?

People responding to AI/bot threads will ruin this website.

Yukon Corneliuswrote:

Elaine, your account appears to be legit, but that comment is definitely written by AI (90.61% according to zerogpt.com). What gives?

OP is super suspicious, so I responded with some junk ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Elaine Gilstromwrote:

OP is super suspicious, so I responded with some junk ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Funnier than most troll threads. 

Hahaha, 

I am not a bot!  am from Europe and english is not my mother tongue, sorry for not use proper expresions.

 I was climbing 2 years ago in the States and I want to know more about your climbing places in order to prepare other climbing trip there.

Thanks anyway

Mission Gorge

Erik Misiakwrote:

big cottonwood has the best rock of all time

Just threw up in my mouth.

Elaine Gilstrom wrote:

Hey Victor! Great question. Ranking crags based on rock quality and grip is definitely subjective, but I’d agree with you that Index is one of the top spots in terms of rock quality. The granite there is fantastic—solid and grippy, and the variety of styles makes it an amazing place to climb. I'd also give a shout-out to areas like Squamish and El Cap for their similarly stellar granite, which tends to offer excellent friction and positive holds.

As for lower-ranking spots, I can understand your frustration with Rifle’s grassy routes. Some of the more overgrown or loose sections can definitely feel sketchy, and the quality can vary quite a bit, which can take away from the climbing experience. Another place I’d mention in the “not-so-great” category would be certain parts of the Needles in California. Some of the rock there can be crumbly, and the approach can be punishing.

As for places like The Gunks, I think the quality of the rock is fantastic—very grippy and reliable, but the routes can sometimes be a little polished due to the high volume of climbers. Smith Rock is a bit of a mixed bag, with sharp, textured tuff that can be amazing on some routes but brutal on your hands and feet on others.

Each area has its charm, though! Whether you're climbing sharp basalt in Smith Rock or smooth granite at City of Rocks, it all comes down to the kind of adventure you’re after!

This is the most AI of all time

Gotta love that smooth City of Rocks granite.

Unless you climb well into the 13’s or chase obscure routes, Smith is more polished than grippy.

Victor bergwrote:

Hi there!

I'ld put Index in the very first place and probably the grassy Rifle's routes at the bottom of  the list.

I mean... Index isnt even the best rock quality in the state. Darrington has better granite, and you better tell no one about it. ;)

I've been told The Needles in California has some of the best rock in the world. Never been sadly.

EDIT:

Even the bot thinking Index is the best crag in the world is so, so so funny.

Tyler Stockdalewrote:

Darrington has better granite, and you better tell no one about it. ;)

Lol, first rule of darrington is you dont talk about darrington. Second rule, if you accidentally break the first rule, is proceed to say how run out and scary it is with no handholds

I was pretty gripped at Cochise, so that gets my vote. I have also heard it can get even more grippier at Black Canyon.

I use grippy as a description for rock quality. greasy, grippy, slippery, sandy are all words I use to describe rock. 

The Hulk has gotta be up there for quality granite.

Bishop tufa.

Jared Kohliwrote:

This is the most AI of all time

That was the point, but since I clearly made a miss judgement I'm going to delete it