New and experienced climbers over 50 #36

rgoldwrote:

Memory refresher.

Ahhh....I need to get back out there...!

Ward Smithwrote:

I use a small carpet square. 

Buck: "I first heard about bringing a small doormat to use bouldering on my first trip to Bleau "

ca late 1930s, Bleau

Lori Milaswrote:

Kris, Kris. Good grief.  I heard about this running start, which you didn’t do. I guess I have to wander over there and see this beauty in person .  Look at that tiny little towel at the bottom. What exactly was that supposed to do?   

That was no towel, that was my Flying Carpet, a fine, tightly woven rug from India. If rugs could talk...   .

It did nothing to soften the landing, but that whole concept seemed kind of lame at the time. The idea was to land well, like a cat. Of course on more modern problems, where you're upside down, that's not a solution.

Here's a shot I took of the mighty Kiwi, Lynn Bowering, who took the Streetcar pics. She's cruising Rubicon. She'd leading on a single 8.5, and did the .11c direct start no pro. I think she's got in about four pieces by now...

Victor Creazziwrote:

The towel is to keep your shoes clean.

These days I pack a rubber backed car floor mat in my climbing bag. Arguably a bit heavy but it works....  

Kristian Solemwrote:

That was no towel, that was my Flying Carpet, a fine, tightly woven rug from India. If rugs could talk...   .

It did nothing to soften the landing, but that whole concept seemed kind of lame at the time. The idea was to land well, like a cat. Of course on more modern problems, where you're upside down, that's not a solution.

Here's a shot I took of the mighty Kiwi, Lynn Bowering, who took the Streetcar pics. She's cruising Rubicon. She'd leading on a single 8.5, and did the .11c direct start no pro. I think she's got in about four pieces by now...

Look at the joy on your face.  

Maybe my problem is I just need a magic blanket… a levitation blanket.  From India.  

The Rubicon.  Wowee.  It’s been awhile since I’ve been out there. Have not climbed anything in the area but kept hiking out to Future Games wall to daydream.  Maybe 2026 will be the time.

John Gillwrote:

I worked out in the academic boonies, but that is beyond the pale. In the 1980s there were maybe a third of the mathematics faculty who were women. But when I started there in 1971 there was no one with a PhD in mathematics in the math department, and four of us - all men - were hired to upgrade the department. There were relatively few women PhDs available nationwide, and they could go to more prestigious schools.

As I stated, I supported AA, but correctly implemented. Here is the incident that disturbed me: In the late 1980s we advertised for a new faculty member with reasonable and negotiable professional traits. The hiring process went strictly by the AA code and that was admirable. After going through several steps we presented our final list to the dean, I think maybe three men and one, possibly two woman. I don't recall. Then the dean noticed an applicant who was of an unusual racial minority, but who for various reasons we all thought unsuitable for our faculty. The dean said, why not put him in the top group so it looks good? We conveyed our strong objections, but into the top group went this candidate. When it came time for the dean to pick our new faculty member, guess who was chosen?

Over the following several years this new member performed at passable levels, but when it came time to award tenure, I was on the school committee and we all said no. The candidate had done no research or beyond organizing a chess club, had done little service other than teaching. The dean, however, was determined to grant tenure, but the department chair at the time revealed that this member had recently chased a fellow faculty member's wife around a house at a party, groping her sexually. The dean grumbled, but finally conceded and the man was let go. 

We could have had a fine female colleague during those years, but didn't.

Thanks for clarifying. Your story shows that even the best policy can be turned into a mess in the hands of an incompetent and short-sighted administrator. 

GO

Ward, we're in your neck of the woods this weekend. We've been climbing through no end of mucky starts (a square of carpet wouldn't do us much good when the first ten feet of the climb are soaking wet and muddy) and rain showers. But we've made the best of it, with one day at Main Cliff, and another at Parking Lot/Meadows.  Tomorrow is supposed to be better. Fingers crossed. 

GO

I worked with Lynn at Outward Bound during that era. Mighty Kiwi, indeed. Her sea kayaking incident in Baja was epic, and dramatically changed her life.

Gabe, your Father was an amazing scholar. My condolences for his passage. (we were both born in 1937)

John

I’m wondering how Rubicon compares to Sweat Band in Indian Cove.  Anyone?  

Also, I see names of the FA Party I do not recognize on Torturer’s Apprentice : Troy Mayr, Kelly Penix, Steve Anderson (and Charles Cole).  Since this was a long time ago perhaps these were old timers?

I’m starting to understand the grades on MP.  One week ago this route was 5.10b/c.  Now it is 5.10b.  Wonder who recently climbed it… I thought I was the only one.  I don’t think I’m qualified to vote on the grade but for sure it’s the hardest thing I’ve ever climbed.  (Changed my mind and voted)

——

I have been trying to explain to Tony the order of difficulty between the climbing grades.  He knows I have wanted to climb a couple 5.11’s one day (looking less and less likely.  ).  Tony said “You’ve climbed a 10b. How hard could an 11 be?”.

A whole universe harder. I found myself trying to explain using earthquake grades.  

“A 7.0 earthquake is ten times stronger than a 6.0 earthquake in terms of ground shaking. It also releases approximately 32 times more energy.”  

Sorta like that?  

Lori Milaswrote:

I’m wondering how Rubicon compares to Sweat Band in Indian Cove.  Anyone?  

Also, I see names of the FA Party I do not recognize on Torturer’s Apprentice : Troy Mayr, Kelly Penix, Steve Anderson (and Charles Cole).  Since this was a long time ago perhaps these were old timers?

Rubicon and Sweat Band are apples and oranges, the first being a trad crack climb and the latter a bolted face. Also, imo Sweat Band has gotten harder with use, while Rubicon is perfect. Also, imo, Rubicon is a far better climb. I was always rock solid on Rubicon, and while I don't recall ever falling off of Sweat Band I do recall feeling kinda sketch up there a couple times. I also recall backing off it once, the excuse being extreme heat.

My favorite climb on that rock in Indian Cove (King Otto's Castle?) is Goodbye Mr. Bond. That one is good fun! Randy Wenzel (RIP old friend) took this one of me on it in 2009, 55 at the time. Man, does time fly!

Troy and Kelly were leading figures in SoCal sport climbing. Troy was good friends with (and sponsored by) Chas Cole and the 5.10 shoe company. I recall one fun day. I was hangin' there when Chas and Troy did the FA of Cactus Flower, next to Lazy Days at the Hall of Horrors. I think Chas had the idea for some time that the line would go without bolts, but finally he had a fit of common sense, and they put in a few bolts to make it go. Once they had it done, we were all doing burns on it, between which each of us would run out to Saddle and solo walk on the wild Side. I think we each did about four ascents of each climb including the run to Saddle and back that afternoon.

Cactus Flower has always been a favorite of mine; that, and Jane's Addiction.

So Apogee, you were around at Outward Bound during the "Pleasure Palace" days? We must know each other, but I don't know you by your avatar...

I started working for PCOBS in '93, when the Boorman Estate was in full swing- I was more of a Sierra/mountaineering instructor, but taught a few rock camps in JT, and taught a lot of WFR's that PCOBS sponsored in JT. That involved sometimes staying at the Boorman, and all of its funky fabulousness. Lynn taught a lot of courses in JT, and we crossed paths in WFR courses and such- she shared with me the details of her kayaking incident in Baja that made some fantastic educational points. A bunch of us from PCOBS are trying to organize a 'reunion' of sorts in the fall, and we hope to see Lynn join us. It's been a very long time, and everyone would enjoy seeing her again.

Kristian Solemwrote:

Rubicon and Sweat Band are apples and oranges, the first being a trad crack climb and the latter a bolted face. Also, imo Sweat Band has gotten harder with use, while Rubicon is perfect. Also, imo, Rubicon is a far better climb. I was always rock solid on Rubicon, and while I don't recall ever falling off of Sweat Band I do recall feeling kinda sketch up there a couple times. I also recall backing off it once, the excuse being extreme heat.

My favorite climb on that rock in Indian Cove (King Otto's Castle?) is Goodbye Mr. Bond. That one is good fun! Randy Wenzel (RIP old friend) took this one of me on it in 2009, 55 at the time. Man, does time fly!

Troy and Kelly were leading figures in SoCal sport climbing. Troy was good friends with (and sponsored by) Chas Cole and the 5.10 shoe company. I recall one fun day. I was hangin' there when Chas and Troy did the FA of Cactus Flower, next to Lazy Days at the Hall of Horrors. I think Chas had the idea for some time that the line would go without bolts, but finally he had a fit of common sense, and they put in a few bolts to make it go. Once they had it done, we were all doing burns on it, between which each of us would run out to Saddle and solo walk on the wild Side. I think we each did about four ascents of each climb including the run to Saddle and back that afternoon.

Cactus Flower has always been a favorite of mine; that, and Jane's Addiction.

So Apogee, you were around at Outward Bound during the "Pleasure Palace" days? We must know each other, but I don't know you by your avatar...

Maybe you were hyperactive.  

This is going to stay with me awhile, Kris.  You climbed Cactus Flower and then ran out to Saddlerock to solo there—four times in an afternoon.

Well, I guess you sure made good use of your time.

I always love your pictures… even if only to keep an eye out for a 5.7 version for me. 

Sam Findleywrote:

Buuuck! Betty is much more fun than three pines. Jelly roll in my memory was funny thirty years ago.  Gelsa was one of the best days climbing I’ve ever had, and the nears are going to be less crowded than the trapps.  Horseman is fun, but the uberfall area is going to be a mob scene.

Well we kind of went off of your list today, Sam!

At least the first two!

Dragons, her SO, and I did Betty to start (no one on the route when we arrived at the base ~0845--unbelievable!).  Dragons led the first pitch and I led the second pitch (first ever lead for me in the Gunks!  Soooooo great!!!).

Then we moved over to Belly Roll and I led the first pitch (which was way longer than 70', more like 120' to the oak tree off to the right) and Dragons led pitch 2.

Then we moved down and were walking to see if Three Pines was open (even though it was now after lunch and mid-afternoon and very busy) and noticed that Easy O was free so Dragons let me lead the first two pitches to the rap anchor and then we decided to go up all the way and walk off!

Just the best day ever!  Whomever said earlier in answer to my "Best 5.8 and Down's in the Country" thread that I should just stay put for the two years I'm here and climb in the Gunks as much as possible was ON POINT!

No need to travel for the next two years when the Trapps parking lot is under one hour from my door!

Cannot wait to go back on Wednesday when I scheduled a day of leave to climb there again!

Thanks so much Dragons for such a great day climbing!

Edit to add photos and explanation for my laughing in the first photo:  Everyone was very impressed with my Yosemite rack that I lugged up all the climbs!!!  Doubles in everything but Dragons convinced me to leave the #4 and the second #3 in the bag for all the climbs and she was right!

;)

Lori Milaswrote:

Maybe you were hyperactive.  

This is going to stay with me awhile, Kris.  You climbed Cactus Flower and then ran out to Saddlerock to solo there—four times in an afternoon

It could have been three times, maybe four. Running out to Saddle for a spin on WOTWS was pretty routine back then. I think Cactus Flower went up before 1990? A long time ago. It's all a blur.

Hyperactive? We all were. If anything I was on the slow side compared to a lot of Josh regulars of the day. Did you ever get to meet "Too Strong" Dave Mayville? Jeez, I could tell you some stories...

The Gunks is the best crag in the USA IMO, even crowded weekends just don't matter. The density of quality routes can't be matched anywhere. The one star routes would be 3 star in most places.

Kristian Solemwrote:

...jeez, I could tell you some stories...

OK, have at it. We'll wait right here ;)

Uberfall classic Bunny 5.4 circa 1975.

I thought Memorial Day might be about remembering those who have fought, been damaged or died for the country, but apparently it’s about remembering those who you don’t like and ranting about them.

Such a heart warming message.

I have a day off to take my grandson to the cardiologist so I’ll take the opportunity to go bouldering in the gym in town today. It’s finally rained here.  

Nah, he couldn't have said that. It must have been The Onion. 
Carl, I hope your grandson's okay.