Entry level multipitch areas

The Gunks get my vote too. My first lead was Three Pines and where else can you get that level of exposure on a 5.3? Actually, where else can you find that many quality trad 5.3’s, 5.4’s and so on, all with great exposure and solid rock? The gear placing and route finding skills I learned there really helped me when I started exploring other areas. But an earlier poster was right, hit all these places.

Eric Craig wrote:

Lots of good suggestions here. Why not visit several places? I am particularly fond of Eldorado Canyon (and of course Yosemite Valley). If you visit 4 or so places you can pick off the real plums each area. Swanson's Arete, Wind Ridge, and Bastille Crack for Eldo, although there may be others I don't know. I think someone suggested Snow Creek in Utah, I've never been there,  but years ago Ron Olevski had great things to say about it. Another vote here for Red Rocks, think I 've done about a half dozen moderates there but literally can't remember their names! I do remember being very impressed at how enjoyable they were. By the time you get to The Valley,  you'll be all tuned up.  Lovers Leap is excellent too.

The idea is to hit all of these places eventually. Biggest reasoning I haven’t gone to many destinations is because I am a full time student and also work, which keeps me busy typically 7 days a week. Once I’ve got the time I plan on trying to travel as much as possible, but my options are a bit limited until I get to a spot where I’ve got the schedule to do it. 

JCM wrote:

Since you are West Virginia based, I'll emphasize how great a training ground (and a climbing area in general) Seneca Rocks is. Most of the climbing is in that 2-4 pitch short multipitch length that is great for gaining experience without getting too committed. And Seneca is a bit more complex and involved than many other areas of that length, requiring (and teaching) skills for dealing with complicated approaches and descents, exposed summit scrambles, occasionally loose/fractured rock, etc. Its a perfect place to learn to deal with these things at a manageable scale, before taking those skills to bigger venues like Red Rock. Another benefit of Seneca is that a lot of the climbing features vertical cracks and corners, which is an important climbing style to get used to for many bigger western venues. 

Overall I think the Gunks is a friendlier venue for an early-stage beginner multiptich climber, but once you have some basic experience, Seneca is a good place to apply those skills in a more complex environment. Starting at Seneca is OK also, especially if you can find someone experienced to go with at first. 

So, for sure, spend some time at Seneca. And the Gunks, and the Adirondacks, and New Hampshire, and various NC areas.  Not to discourage a trip west (for sure go out there also), but there is a lot offered at the closer venues too.

After a season of Seneca weekend trips, plus the occasional further trip to the Gunks or NC, I expect that you'd be feeling much more confident and ready for a big out-west trip.

I’ve looked into pretty much all of these areas, super hyped on the gunks and the Adirondacks! My partner spends a lot of time in the Adirondacks and we had discussed climbing the chapel pond slab, I just need to get over my fear of being sandbagged in some of these old school destinations first. 

Owen Smith wrote:

I’ve looked into pretty much all of these areas, super hyped on the gunks and the Adirondacks! My partner spends a lot of time in the Adirondacks and we had discussed climbing the chapel pond slab, I just need to get over my fear of being sandbagged in some of these old school destinations first. 

I climb in the ‘Dacks mostly, definitely some sandbagging but chapel pond is good, pitchoff is good too for early multi pitch. Just watch out for old school 5.8 & 5.9 climbs. Them be scary sometimes. Hit me up if you ever need a catch up here!

Zachary Hyde wrote:

I climb in the ‘Dacks mostly, definitely some sandbagging but chapel pond is good, pitchoff is good too for early multi pitch. Just watch out for old school 5.8 & 5.9 climbs. Them be scary sometimes. Hit me up if you ever need a catch up here!

I totally appreciate the offer! Chapel pond seemed not too bad but looking into everything else made it seem like I probably would not be able to make a trip with it. It’s about 14 hours for me and I didn’t want to make a trip up until I was sure I could do some climbing at wallface and poke o moonshine, but that’s the peak I’ve heard the worst about in terms of sandbagging 

Owen Smith wrote:

I’ve looked into pretty much all of these areas, super hyped on the gunks and the Adirondacks! My partner spends a lot of time in the Adirondacks and we had discussed climbing the chapel pond slab, I just need to get over my fear of being sandbagged in some of these old school destinations first. 

Chapel Pond Slab has some pretty solid routes, as does the slabs at Whitehorse Ledge in New Hampshire.  But, like many granite slab climbs, even at easy grades, you don't always have as much gear as you might like.  If you don't mind run-out 5.4-5.5 (not overly sand-bagged) slab climbing, they are good choices.

Owen Smith wrote:

Thanks for the recommendations! From what I’ve heard the banana flake seems to be a bit sketchy regardless, I’ve seen a few folks say a fall would take the hold route down so I plan on avoiding it. Unfortunately I think I’m gonna be sandbagged wherever I end up, most of my climbing is done at the Red which seems to be considered soft, even though I will say some of the trad climbing there has shut me down comparative to the sport grading 

The older (pre 90's) trad lines at the Red tend to be more in line with Seneca and The Gunks ratings.  I don't consider those ratings sandbagged.  The ratings are appropriate for the era in which they were first climbed.

in other words they are sandbagged ;)  the lower grades @ Seneca and the Daks are absolutly sandbagged.  West pole is hillarious. easily 10a in NH ;) 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

in other words they are sandbagged ;)  the lower grades @ Seneca and the Daks are absolutly sandbagged.  West pole is hillarious. easily 10a in NH ;) 

Any routes at Seneca you’d recommend in particular? Trying to plan a trip now. For sure going to do either the old ladies or old man’s just to get a feel for the grades and rock type but depending on how hard Seneca 5.2 feels, gunsight to south peak looks like an incredible climb. 

Gunsite to south peak with the approach from the east side of the cliff is spectacular and well protected. Old mans rt I have not done but been right next to it a bunch rappeling and it looks reasonable. candy corner is much harder. its called 5.5 but would be 5.7  most places but is well protected.  lots of stuff I just dont remember like I think from candy corner you top out by going up windy corner? 

Old Man's will acquaint you pretty well to the west face lay out.  Conn's West is good, especially with the direct finish.  Le Gourmet is a classic.  Good variations from the ledge -- Front C and Easy Over.  The next step up in terms of difficulty would be things like Prune, Critter Crack, Pleasant Overhangs, and Green Wall.  Study up on the rappel routes. 

Edit:  Overall, having climbed for decades at both areas, I would recommend the Gunks over Seneca for an "entry-level" multi-pitch area.  Many more easier routes giving you wider choice of routes.  Easier to navigate.

green wall is the easiest of the 5.7s at Seneca and the only 5.7 I have done there that was not 5.8 or harder. Pleasant O's is not a good one for new trad leaders or followers.. 

PTR wrote:

Old Man's will acquaint you pretty well to the west face lay out.  Conn's West is good, especially with the direct finish.  Le Gourmet is a classic.  Good variations from the ledge -- Front C and Easy Over.  The next step up in terms of difficulty would be things like Prune, Critter Crack, Pleasant Overhangs, and Green Wall.  Study up on the rappel routes. 

Edit:  Overall, having climbed for decades at both areas, I would recommend the Gunks over Seneca for an "entry-level" multi-pitch area.  Many more easier routes giving you wider choice of routes.  Easier to navigate.

Any beta on where I can get info on rappel descents? The main reason I haven’t climbed at Seneca yet is I’ve been worried I’ll have trouble finding the  rap stations. I read somewhere that the old man’s supposedly passes by most of the rap stations on the way up but I’d love a map of some sort to make sure I’ve got the correct info. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

green wall is the easiest of the 5.7s at Seneca and the only 5.7 I have done there that was not 5.8 or harder. Pleasant O's is not a good one for new trad leaders or followers.. 

I planned on trying to stay below 5.7 my first trip there just for this reasoning. I’ve heard great things about candy corner from some friends of mine who climb at Seneca often but even looking at pictures tells me that would be the hardest 5.6 I’ve gotten on

it was a 5.5 when I did it ;)  I think old mans is pretty close to the  rap line which goes down West Pole.  It seems intimidating the first time up there but once you do it once its obviously no biggie. You don't want to have to rely on other folks but chances are good someone will be up there that knows the way down . You just down climb into the notch just south of the summit which if you do Old Ladies first you will allready have been through that notch. from that saddle there is a notch that lets you scramble down to a big pine tree on the west face. 

The 2006 edition of the Seneca guide by Barnes describes a good number of rappels.  I have not seen the 2022 edition but it probably includes descent info as well.

Wanted to give this thread a quick bump, had my first trip to Seneca Rocks and had a great time! Currently looking at some other areas by me and got curious about Looking Glass in NC. I've heard the place is sandbagged but the grades don't seem to go as low as they do at a place like seneca, would anyone have any info on how the grades at these areas compare? We stayed around 5.4-5.5 for Seneca Rocks and I am just not sure if climbing at that level would warrant a trip to Looking Glass or not. Thanks!

Owen Smith wrote:

Wanted to give this thread a quick bump, had my first trip to Seneca Rocks and had a great time! Currently looking at some other areas by me and got curious about Looking Glass in NC. I've heard the place is sandbagged but the grades don't seem to go as low as they do at a place like seneca, would anyone have any info on how the grades at these areas compare? We stayed around 5.4-5.5 for Seneca Rocks and I am just not sure if climbing at that level would warrant a trip to Looking Glass or not. Thanks!

I would argue climbing at LG is not sandbagged, its just a lot of slab but the granite there has great texture and the gear is easy (lots of horizontals [eyebrows]) so its mostly a function of trusting your feet. At Looking Glass in particular, you probably wanna be climbing 5.7-5.8 to have enough routes to make the trip worth it. However, take a look at Cedar Rock as well (maybe just a 15' drive away in the same forest) and I believe there's some easier climbing.

I know this doesn't answer your question directly. I haven't climbed at Seneca but hopefully someone who has will chime in with a comparison. 

Also, The Nose at LG is mostly 5.5 climbing with lots of comfy stances (its rated 5.8 for just a few little tricky spots). It also has bolted belays, which cuts down some stress for newer leaders- do, however note, most of us make a gear belay at the top of the 3rd pitch at the back of the parking lot rather than using the beefy eye bolts but you can do either. 

I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but Eldorado Canyon would get my vote. Swanson's Arete and Wind Ridge come to mind. I believe there  are others that I just can't think of right now.  Steorts Ridge in Little Cottonwood Canyon  is as good as 5.6 gets I believe. Tuolumne Meadows has several 5.6/5.7 routes suitable for fledgling trad leaders.