Entry level multipitch areas

Matt Coghill wrote:

Edge of Time - Estes Park, CO

Did you even read the original question?

Marc801 C wrote:

Did you even read the original question?

Yeah! Have you ever climbed the EOD and slept on the piton portaledge bivy to do a summit push the following morning when condies are better? I am a local, bro.

Matt Coghill wrote:

Yeah! Have you ever climbed the EOD and slept on the piton portaledge bivy to do a summit push the following morning when condies are better? I am a local, bro.

OK. Is there more than one "Edge of Time" in Estes? I'm only aware of the single pitch 5.9 sport route.

Marc801 C wrote:

OK. Is there more than one "Edge of Time" in Estes? I'm only aware of the single pitch 5.9 sport route.

As someone who also happens to be a Local. The edge of time is absolutely a classic multipitch climb. Sitting on the piton bivy, watching my partner commit to the 3 hour skyhook lead; is a memory that will forever be burnt into my mind. Sometimes I wake up with sweats dreaming about pitch 3. 

Either way, great climb. 

The OP should keep in mind that Eldo and Looking glass are notoriously hard to protect, sandbagged as a motherfcker  and run out is the norm. Hit the Gunks or Red rocks

As I said earlier “gunks”. Super concentrated and you will get everything dialed. 2 pitch routes or 10 pitch routes it’s all the same. In the gunks you do so many various change overs and rappelling that you get really good at it or it just doesn’t click. Dial your shit at the gunks and you can climb anywhere 

Climbed there over 20 years 

Bingo. 

Marc801 C wrote:

OK. Is there more than one "Edge of Time" in Estes? I'm only aware of the single pitch 5.9 sport route.

I think it's just the weed in Colorado... Ha ha

From the title, before I saw your message, I thought "The Gunks".  As, clearly, have many others.  Solid rock; many routes in the lower grades that both include interesting climbing, and good gear placements -- but enough variety in the size/layout/spacing of gear placements that it isn't just "plug another cam into that parallel-sided crack".  That is, it will also be a good place to learn about gear placements.  And your time-frame is pretty good for a Gunks visit.  Yeah, it is spring in the east -- so pretty much anything could happen with the weather -- but there's reasonably good odds of some good weather.

The only major drawback to The Gunks: the cost of access. Access fee around $20/person/day. (But, if you're going regularly, there is an annual membership that is likely to pay-off after around 4-6 days of climbing.)

Out west -- the Flatirons would not be a choice I recommend. While less than vertical, the gear is often sparse.

Red Rocks has some excellent moderate mulit-pitch climbs that protect reasonably well - but the approaches can be the crux of the climb. And if it rains, you're not climbing for a few days.

For out west, Yosemite valley has some excellent, well-protected, introductory trad climbing. Including things like Munginella (5.6) at Five Open Books, After Six (5.7) on Ranger Rock and The Grack, Center (5.6) on the Apron. And, of course, Royal Arches (5.7 A0, 15 pitches) would be your graduation exam. :)

Eden Bolick wrote:

As someone who also happens to be a Local. The edge of time is absolutely a classic multipitch climb. Sitting on the piton bivy, watching my partner commit to the 3 hour skyhook lead; is a memory that will forever be burnt into my mind. Sometimes I wake up with sweats dreaming about pitch 3. 

Either way, great climb. 

Great! So where is it?

It’s not really well located, but the Prophecy Wall outside St. George Utah has a variety of nicely bolted, easy-moderate multipitch sport climbs. If you were traveling to Vegas for the taller stuff, Prophecy Wall is a really great spot to shake off the rust and practice techniques for moving faster, without the crowds.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

The OP should keep in mind that Eldo and Looking glass are notoriously hard to protect, sandbagged as a motherfcker  and run out is the norm. Hit the Gunks or Red rocks

I like to think I’ve done my fair bit of research, I’ve heard the standard for “safe” in NC is a bit sketchier than most places, also heard about the finicky gear in Eldo. Currently gunks and red rocks are top two contenders for sure. I have really enjoyed a lot of the trad face climbs I’ve done at the New River Gorge and based off what I’ve heard of the Gunks, it seems like I’d be a bit better at protecting those routes than elsewhere 

David Gibbs wrote:

From the title, before I saw your message, I thought "The Gunks".  As, clearly, have many others.  Solid rock; many routes in the lower grades that both include interesting climbing, and good gear placements -- but enough variety in the size/layout/spacing of gear placements that it isn't just "plug another cam into that parallel-sided crack".  That is, it will also be a good place to learn about gear placements.  And your time-frame is pretty good for a Gunks visit.  Yeah, it is spring in the east -- so pretty much anything could happen with the weather -- but there's reasonably good odds of some good weather.

The only major drawback to The Gunks: the cost of access. Access fee around $20/person/day. (But, if you're going regularly, there is an annual membership that is likely to pay-off after around 4-6 days of climbing.)

Out west -- the Flatirons would not be a choice I recommend. While less than vertical, the gear is often sparse.

Red Rocks has some excellent moderate mulit-pitch climbs that protect reasonably well - but the approaches can be the crux of the climb. And if it rains, you're not climbing for a few days.

For out west, Yosemite valley has some excellent, well-protected, introductory trad climbing. Including things like Munginella (5.6) at Five Open Books, After Six (5.7) on Ranger Rock and The Grack, Center (5.6) on the Apron. And, of course, Royal Arches (5.7 A0, 15 pitches) would be your graduation exam. :)

Thanks for all the detail! This is some awesome info to have! Very glad people have made some remarks about the flatirons that have shifted my thoughts a bit. It seems like I’ll probably end up at the gunks for this upcoming trip. Red Rocks is still on the table depending on how much experience we can get in before the time comes, but neither me or my partner have enough experience to make me think we are good to be taking on “huge” routes. I think some 2-4 pitch routes will be a pretty awesome introduction for us. That being said if we find the time I plan on making it to seneca rocks to run some laps and get used to the systems. 

Lots of good suggestions here. Why not visit several places? I am particularly fond of Eldorado Canyon (and of course Yosemite Valley). If you visit 4 or so places you can pick off the real plums each area. Swanson's Arete, Wind Ridge, and Bastille Crack for Eldo, although there may be others I don't know. I think someone suggested Snow Creek in Utah, I've never been there,  but years ago Ron Olevski had great things to say about it. Another vote here for Red Rocks, think I 've done about a half dozen moderates there but literally can't remember their names! I do remember being very impressed at how enjoyable they were. By the time you get to The Valley,  you'll be all tuned up.  Lovers Leap is excellent too.

Owen Smith wrote:

 I think some 2-4 pitch routes will be a pretty awesome introduction for us. That being said if we find the time I plan on making it to seneca rocks to run some laps and get used to the systems. 

Since you are West Virginia based, I'll emphasize how great a training ground (and a climbing area in general) Seneca Rocks is. Most of the climbing is in that 2-4 pitch short multipitch length that is great for gaining experience without getting too committed. And Seneca is a bit more complex and involved than many other areas of that length, requiring (and teaching) skills for dealing with complicated approaches and descents, exposed summit scrambles, occasionally loose/fractured rock, etc. Its a perfect place to learn to deal with these things at a manageable scale, before taking those skills to bigger venues like Red Rock. Another benefit of Seneca is that a lot of the climbing features vertical cracks and corners, which is an important climbing style to get used to for many bigger western venues. 

Overall I think the Gunks is a friendlier venue for an early-stage beginner multiptich climber, but once you have some basic experience, Seneca is a good place to apply those skills in a more complex environment. Starting at Seneca is OK also, especially if you can find someone experienced to go with at first. 

So, for sure, spend some time at Seneca. And the Gunks, and the Adirondacks, and New Hampshire, and various NC areas.  Not to discourage a trip west (for sure go out there also), but there is a lot offered at the closer venues too.

After a season of Seneca weekend trips, plus the occasional further trip to the Gunks or NC, I expect that you'd be feeling much more confident and ready for a big out-west trip.

I just see now that you are in WV. Seneca is amazing and sandbagged as a MFCKER ;)  Red rocks much easier!  Not sure what you are really looking for but old Ladies rt @ Seneca is really easy and gets you to the top. Old mans is supposed to be 5.4 but think of it as a 5.6 and you will be safer. Gunsite to south peak is the absolute gem of the easy climbs. Much more straight forward to approach it from the east side. do both variations.   DO NOT attempt Bannana. Its rated only 5.6 but has a 10a move on it that is an ankle breaker.   Candy corner is a big step up for 5.5 but protects well.  If you get so that you can cruise the 5.7s at Seneca you will be a pretty darn good climber. Don't let the grades scare you away from other places. Seneca 5.7 is Red Rocks 5.9..  I don't know what other easy climbs to suggest there as I mostly climbed 7s and above when we were there. Skip Simple J as well.   get the tony Barns guide and  only do climbs with stars..

phylp phylp wrote:

Great suggestion Jay but maybe not for March-April. It will depend what kind of winter we get this year!

busted... I didn't read beyond the title.

Eric Craig wrote:

Lots of good suggestions here. Why not visit several places? I am particularly fond of Eldorado Canyon (and of course Yosemite Valley). If you visit 4 or so places you can pick off the real plums each area. Swanson's Arete, Wind Ridge, and Bastille Crack for Eldo, although there may be others I don't know. I think someone suggested Snow Creek in Utah, I've never been there,  but years ago Ron Olevski had great things to say about it. Another vote here for Red Rocks, think I 've done about a half dozen moderates there but literally can't remember their names! I do remember being very impressed at how enjoyable they were. By the time you get to The Valley,  you'll be all tuned up.  Lovers Leap is excellent too.

Ron called Snow Canyon a "soft rock laboratory" if I recall correctly. It is certainly fun and worthwhile, somewhat similar to Red Rocks but indeed softer. 

Eldo is imo no more sandbagged or necessarily runout than the Gunks. Both are exceptional and the OP would learn a lot at either place. 

Well I can believe that. Maybe his excitement (excitement for Ron anyway) had more to do with the opportunity to establish a bunch of climbs. Because of Ron it was on my list of places to visit  but I never made it there. He might have even mentioned soft rock and I just didn't remember. Maybe it's a bad recommendation?

I have never been to the Gunks or for that matter  never any sunny weather rock climbing destination in the east. Only climbing that side of the Mississippi I've done is winter ice/mixed in New England.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

I just see now that you are in WV. Seneca is amazing and sandbagged as a MFCKER ;)  Red rocks much easier!  Not sure what you are really looking for but old Ladies rt @ Seneca is really easy and gets you to the top. Old mans is supposed to be 5.4 but think of it as a 5.6 and you will be safer. Gunsite to south peak is the absolute gem of the easy climbs. Much more straight forward to approach it from the east side. do both variations.   DO NOT attempt Bannana. Its rated only 5.6 but has a 10a move on it that is an ankle breaker.   Candy corner is a big step up for 5.5 but protects well.  If you get so that you can cruise the 5.7s at Seneca you will be a pretty darn good climber. Don't let the grades scare you away from other places. Seneca 5.7 is Red Rocks 5.9..  I don't know what other easy climbs to suggest there as I mostly climbed 7s and above when we were there. Skip Simple J as well.   get the tony Barns guide and  only do climbs with stars..

Thanks for the recommendations! From what I’ve heard the banana flake seems to be a bit sketchy regardless, I’ve seen a few folks say a fall would take the hold route down so I plan on avoiding it. Unfortunately I think I’m gonna be sandbagged wherever I end up, most of my climbing is done at the Red which seems to be considered soft, even though I will say some of the trad climbing there has shut me down comparative to the sport grading