New and experienced climbers over 50 #36

Hey Lori, We were just around the corner on the north face of Snickers, climbing Funny Bone, 5.8, and Humerus, 5.10b/c. I was able to get Humerus whittled down to two falls! A great success for me. Get off those slabs and come do some climbs with real holds!

Guy Keeseewrote:
Understand 100%.
On MP I’m surprised people use fake names.
I think the primary goal of MP is listing Routs.
I have never seen a FA put up by:
Apogee and Murf Dec 15, 1987 5.2 A0 ….

Guy, not sure what you are saying about me, but I've had the same handle since the bbs days.

You and I have also climbing next to each other, granted I don't think we've shared a rope.

Murf, the rope Guy has for you is tied in a noose. I'd run.

Brandt Allenwrote:

Hey Lori, We were just around the corner on the north face of Snickers, climbing Funny Bone, 5.8, and Humerus, 5.10b/c. I was able to get Humerus whittled down to two falls! A great success for me. Get off those slabs and come do some climbs with real holds!

I’m so glad you got out and had a good day!  I love it over there. I don’t know if I would recognize Humerus, but you got some traction on it! congratulations !

Do you remember the route you were on when I told you that I had Tony pull off the road because I wanted to watch this beautiful climber (you) on a rock in that area? I think it might’ve been a 5.9.  I keep thinking that it was to the right of CS special but I could be completely wrong.

Re slab, I don’t know what’s wrong with me – – probably a deep psychological problem – – that whenever ever given a chance I head right back to slab. I had a good time stemming on my chimney route, I enjoyed whatever you call it on the Dakota route. But give me this piece of slab and I will be thinking about it for weeks.   

In preparation, I watched the video of Jeremy Schoenborn on Cutting Edge and the guy who did the second ascent of the New Deal.  Tony watched those close-ups and asked how are they climbing with no holds? Exactly!

Bob Gaineswrote:

Channeling my inner Gaston Rebuffat.

Blundered into mine:

Hang ten!  Ha ha...

"Hello my name is Murf"

News broke today about Biden's metastatic prostate cancer. Earlier in the day, and for the last several days, National Review has had pieces posted about the scandal of the coverup of his decline. When the news broke, they posted a single piece simply announcing his cancer, then immediately returned to another piece about how there should be a congressional investigation into the coverup. Really not very classy to my eye...back off on the guy for maybe one day...?

Honestly, I really don't care much about how Biden's condition was 'covered up'...all this 'scandal' noise being generated by NR and the Right feels an awful lot like Benghazi noise. His decline was pretty damn obvious to any reasonable person, and even if he hadn't declined to this degree, it seems doubtful he was going to win. I do wish he'd have chosen not to run in the first place, and that Harris would have read the writing on the all about her negative polling and stepped aside, allowing a true open primary. That election needed a truly exciting, new candidate, and not another octogenarian and unpopular VP as the only choice.

". . . ketogenic diets originated in the 1920s, for the treatment of pediatric seizures."

I believe you're right. I was working on a piece today, part of which was on ketosis and neuroinflammation, and this was mentioned in one of the articles I was reading. It wasn't part of what I was doing, so I didn't pay much attention, but the simple fact stuck. 

It would be nice if someone who has an educational background in evolutionary biology and has some real expertise could join the discussion. 

WF WF51wrote:

". . . ketogenic diets originated in the 1920s, for the treatment of pediatric seizures."

I believe you're right. I was working on a piece today, part of which was on ketosis and neuroinflammation, and this was mentioned in one of the articles I was reading. It wasn't part of what I was doing, so I didn't pay much attention, but the simple fact stuck. 

It would be nice if someone who has an educational background in evolutionary biology and has some real expertise could join the discussion. 

I don‘t have that background, but what questions do you have, specifically?

https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/world/on-gpyagen-stanley-mcchrystal-on-the-erosion-of-character-in-america/vi-AA1F0y5u?ocid=BingNewsSerp

this 

Permabetawrote:

I don‘t have that background, but what questions do you have, specifically?

Oh, no, nothing specific, but there has been a bit of a discussion about diet, who ate what, when, and so on. It would be interesting if someone with expertise were here to comment. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/world/on-gpyagen-stanley-mcchrystal-on-the-erosion-of-character-in-america/vi-AA1F0y5u?ocid=BingNewsSerp

this 

Thanks for posting this Nick.  I'm sending many others.

Lori Milaswrote:

Do you remember the route you were on when I told you that I had Tony pull off the road because I wanted to watch this beautiful climber (you) on a rock in that area? I think it might’ve been a 5.9.  I keep thinking that it was to the right of CS special but I could be completely wrong.

Re slab, I don’t know what’s wrong with me – – probably a deep psychological problem

The route you're thinking of is Sitting Here in Limbo, 5.9 and well right of CS Special. You'd like it; except for one move at the start, it's rather slabish.

Recognizing that you have a problem is the first step to recovery. I often tell people who like off-widths, squeeze chimneys, or hideous holdless slabs "You can get counseling for that!"

Murfwrote:

Guy, not sure what you are saying about me, but I've had the same handle since the bbs days.

You and I have also climbing next to each other, granted I don't think we've shared a rope.

You and apogee were the first two names that popped into my brain as folks who use different- fake names- avatars.
no offense….. maybe I should have used “Gobacktosupertopo” and “Mountainprojectmonitor”…. 

I will paraphrase, " The only thing that makes slab climbing interesting is run-outs." Funny, true-ish. I do enjoy it. The difference in leading vs TR is quite marked though. Kind of like defusing a bomb.

Oddly, surfers use the term also.

Brandt Allenwrote:

The route you're thinking of is Sitting Here in Limbo, 5.9 and well right of CS Special. You'd like it; except for one move at the start, it's rather slabish.

Recognizing that you have a problem is the first step to recovery. I often tell people who like off-widths, squeeze chimneys, or hideous holdless slabs "You can get counseling for that!"

 

I believe I read a study somewhere that said people that climb juggy routes with lots of good holds are generally happier people with a longer life expectancy 

^ Yeah and those jug thugs have contrary definition of slab.

Brandt Allenwrote:

The route you're thinking of is Sitting Here in Limbo, 5.9 and well right of CS Special. You'd like it; except for one move at the start, it's rather slabish.

Recognizing that you have a problem is the first step to recovery. I often tell people who like off-widths, squeeze chimneys, or hideous holdless slabs "You can get counseling for that!"

 

That was a very cool day, Brandt watching you climb.  

About the slab.  rgold called it 'desperate slab"... and I loved that.  It's squaring up to a wall that is pretty much blank and figuring it out.  I wear my reading glasses for slab climbs--if I could I would bring a magnifying glass.     As you stand back and gaze, there will appear some nubbin or tiny crack that makes itself known, and if you can get to it without falling, you're another step closer.    

I'm also surprised at the strength required to do this kind of climbing.  You are holding onto a blank wall with core, toes, fingers.  It IS upper body work, not just good feet.  My arms and back are really sore this morning. 

It's all wonderful climbing, all the variety here in this park.  But the routes that always catch my eye are the 'desperate slab' ones.  Count Dracula.  Dirty Tricks. Run For Your Life?  and all the rest. 

Not to go on and on... but every detail matters on these climbs.  I thought bringing my new unbroken-in shoes would help yesterday.  The rubber was not quite right for me... (same shoe, just new rubber). It felt slick, it felt like I was sliding and I was unstable.  So for the second run I put on my old shoes, with roughed up soles, and it felt much better.  Apparently the temp of the rock matters, too... not 'greasy'.  Like, 48 degrees is ideal.  Bob scrubs his shoe bottoms, spits on them, until they squeak for slab climbs.  If you're launching onto a jug hold, that would not be necessary.  

I'm right on the verge of admitting I'll never have the Jedi magic.  It just might not be in the cards for me.  I WISH I could have witnessed some of these early slab ascents because I am certain that it does involve will, prayer and magic. 

Finally... who WERE these climbers that were so talented, strong and willing to take 'x' rated risks?  Climbing Torturer's Apprentice yesterday... the first bolt was basically in a death zone. Why would anyone do that?  I'll never understand but I have a little bit of a crush.    

Beeeennnnggggghhhhaaaazzzziiiiii!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Emil Briggswrote:

I'm not a paleo biologist but from what I've read hunter gather societies did eat grains. They just didn't plant them but all modern grains descend from wild forebears. 

Such a super cool discussion and so great that we have Permabeta here with their background and expertise!  (assuming that they are not a bot???? Just kidding!!!)

When I lived in Germany we spent one Thanksgiving in the South Tyrolean mountains Nordic skiing and hiking and we took a day trip down to Bolzano and visited the Otzi man museum.  

Really great stuff!

Now he was "only" around 5,300 years ago but still very interesting to see his last meal diet and the amount of cardiovascular disease that he already had from his diet.

Granted only an "N' of 1 but still really interesting.

https://www.cell.com/current-biology/fulltext/S0960-9822(18)30703-6

philip bonewrote:

I will paraphrase, " The only thing that makes slab climbing interesting is run-outs." Funny, true-ish. I do enjoy it. The difference in leading vs TR is quite marked though. Kind of like defusing a bomb.

Oddly, surfers use the term also.

LOL. Some truth to that. But I think hard slab boulder problems can be fun even if their only 12 feet tall.