Poll: What Do Slash Grades Mean?

I'm confused at people who can't distinguish those 3 cases. They're all quite different and I thought clearly described.

Case #3 is the most common: You want finer grades. If you see a pro climber propose a slash grade it's most likely this.

Case #1 is the opposite: You want coarser grades. This can be either because it's hard to grade or because you're unsure of the grade. People frequently use +/- (or a naked number) instead.

Case #2 is proposing multiple grades. This is obvious when there is a gap in the grade (12c/13a). This can be based on morphology (can you reach or fit) or, more commonly, variations (e.g. Freerider is 12d/13a).

Sage Bedell wrote:

Is this another Daniel Chode Rider account lol?

No. That’s Puppy Lovr (post child). He and Chode Rider are homies, but not the same person. Unfortunate two fo them exist, really.

Austin Donisan wrote:

I'm confused at people who can't distinguish those 3 cases. They're all quite different and I thought clearly described.

Case #3 is the most common: You want finer grades. If you see a pro climber propose a slash grade it's most likely this.

Case #1 is the opposite: You want coarser grades. This can be either because it's hard to grade or because you're unsure of the grade. People frequently use +/- (or a naked number) instead.

Case #2 is proposing multiple grades. This is obvious when there is a gap in the grade (12c/13a). This can be based on morphology (can you reach or fit) or, more commonly, variations (e.g. Freerider is 12d/13a).

How are you determining which is the most common “form” of slash grades? Also explaining each case out of order is diabolical. 

Some people have actually thought the chode Rider and aldus are my creations designed to troll people lol. 

But seriously sage did something in particular make you use that grade as an example? If you can't name names here dm me.

Trevr Taylr wrote:

Some people have actually thought the chode Rider and aldus are my creations designed to troll people lol. 

But seriously sage did something in particular make you use that grade as an example? If you can't name names here dm me.

Yeah, well you also thought I was you once so…

V3/5

Holy poop how is this thread so long? Are slash grades really that tough to understand? Maybe I need to be a deeper thinker... 

Todd R wrote:

Holy poop how is this thread so long? Are slash grades really that tough to understand? Maybe I need to be a deeper thinker... 

You must be new here if you’re thoroughly impressed that a slash grade thread is 2 pages long. I, for one, am floundered this is not 7+ pages by now. We, as a community, need to do better. 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

I, for one, am floundered this is not 7+ pages by now.

Is 7+ the same as 7/8? And how does 8- fit into this? And which is the biggest? 

Ignatius Pi wrote:

Is 7+ the same as 7/8? And how does 8- fit into this? And which is the biggest? 

Haha?

Todd R wrote:

Holy poop how is this thread so long? Are slash grades really that tough to understand? Maybe I need to be a deeper thinker... 

I think you need to start appreciating the mundane absurdity of the proj. It's like a beautiful, communal dance of pedantry. 

Embrace it! 

Ricky Harline wrote:

I think you need to start appreciating the mundane absurdity of the proj. It's like a beautiful, communal dance of pedantry. 

Embrace it! 

Thanks for setting me straight guys. Here's how I understand it: 

11b/c means you probably should have just given it a 10+. 11c/d means the route may have deserved an 11-. Maybe. More or less similar for the other grades... 

Todd R wrote:

Thanks for setting me straight guys. Here's how I understand it: 

11b/c means you probably should have just given it a 10+. 11c/d means the route may have deserved an 11-. Maybe. More or less similar for the other grades... 

ummmmm…what? You trolling?

How are you equating 10+ to mid 5.11….? You’re like 2-3 (letter) grades off

Slash grades indicate it is an in-between grade. So 5.11b/c is harder than b, but easier than c. It is usually used if there are multiple climbs in the same area that are smililar in grade but you want to differentiate. Like there is a .11c to the left and a .11d to the right, but the climb in the center is easier than the .11d but harder than the .11c.

In the french grading system we use a "+" for that, it's very common. eg 6a+ instead of 6a/b.

I have hated slash grades for 20 years, because there is no consensus on what the hell they mean. Used inconsistently by different people, their very presence dilutes the whole grading system.  I've never used them, and never will.

It's quite obvious what grade a climb is when it comes down to it and the simple slash doesn't even provide quite the granularity needed. In reality, 5.12b/c is the easiest, then 5.12b\c and we all surely know that 5.12c\b is harder than both of those while 5.12c/b is the hardest among them.

Mark OB wrote:

It's quite obvious what grade a climb is when it comes down to it and the simple slash doesn't even provide quite the granularity needed. In reality, 5.12b/c is the easiest, then 5.12b\c and we all surely know that 5.12c\b is harder than both of those while 5.12c/b is the hardest among them.

I think 5.12c/b+ HVS tops the scale

Matt Robertson wrote:

I have hated slash grades for 20 years, because there is no consensus on what the hell they mean. Used inconsistently by different people, their very presence dilutes the whole grading system.  I've never used them, and never will.

I have hated grades for the last 20 years because there is no consensus on what the hell they mean. Used inconsistently by different people, their very presence dilutes climbing as a whole. I never use them, and never will.

Just kidding, I grade exclusively on the binary scale. It either goes (for me) or it doesn’t. Grades are subjective right   

to me the slash means either I really am not sure what it is? could be this ? could be that?  or there is a variation so if you go right it's this and left is that.... 

At my gym, every climb is a slash grade, presumably to either not make people upset about the grade being off or to encourage people to try something harder. All the grades are 10a/b, 10b/c,10c/d, 11a/b, etc. (No 10d/11a)