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Did Adam Ondra lie about climbing the Dawn Wall?

Alex Styp · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75
Trevr Taylr wrote:

That's not only thing I want leaked....

What else do you want leaked?

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
Cherokee Nunes wrote:

Tommy climbed it for sure. His word alone is good enough for me, but there were a lot of cameras.

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/how-the-yosemite-climbers-dawn-wall-first-free-ascent-has-pushed-the-sport-forward

Redefining “Team Free”

Over the years, big-wall free climbers on El Cap have debated over the various “styles” of ascent. The method employed by Caldwell and Jorgeson over the past 19 days has left many in the climbing community scratching their heads about what to make of their style.

The goal for Caldwell and Jorgeson was simply for both climbers to free climb every pitch. At least one person had to lead every pitch, and once that pitch was led, then it was OK for the second person to free climb that pitch on top-rope.

It became confusing because, once the two climbers hit the block of really hard pitches, from pitch 14 through 20, they each free-climbed these pitches out of order from each other. Jorgeson battled to complete pitch 15, while Caldwell continued leading every pitch up to pitch 20. After Jorgeson led pitch 15, and pitch 16, then he top-roped pitches 17-20 while catching up to Caldwell.

This style really stretches the definition of “team free” to its limit due to the fact that both climbers ascended each pitch of the Dawn Wall in succession to their own high point, but out of order in relation to each other.

It's kind of like the Dawn Wall was a crag that you ticked every climb on in a climbing trip. Nobody thinks anyone has red pointed The Dawn Wall, so I guess ooo is OK too. Guess we're far and away from mountaineering, where it's bottom to the top or the summit doesn't really count, except from where you really "started"

LL2 · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 174

Good heavens. Are we really debating this? I’m not. I sent his assistant some pictures of a sick highball in Big Bend National Park a couple months ago. I hope we soon see Adam sending this boulder. Hopefully footage obtained will satisfy any naysayers, and we will not have to debate such silliness.

Trevr Taylr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 14
Alex Styp wrote:

What else do you want leaked?

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

I wasn't aware this was now Reddit. r/climbingcirclejerk

hillbilly hijinks · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 194
Cherokee Nunes wrote:

Tommy climbed it for sure. His word alone is good enough for me, but there were a lot of cameras.

It doesn't really matter if any subsequent climbers lied about the cleanliness of their ascents.

hey man, I dunno about you but I lie awake at night wondering about other's taints and purity.

Just not who's you might think lol.

Seriously though, anyone who gives a shit about someone else's style (as long as the community resource is not damaged) needs a long look in the mirror meditating on their own motivations. Take your inspiration from where you might of course, but other than that it should have no meaning for your own climbing. Adam Ondra or anyone else's efforts on some climb have no meaning to me. It might as well be an alternative universe.

B S · · GA · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 285

much better read than expected here fellas

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Trevr Taylr wrote:

I thought you were quitting MP for good?

guess you are an addict like the rest of us. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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