0 to 5.13 in 18 Months!

This reminds me of someone I heard about who was able to climb V14 within 4 years of starting climbing, all while getting a PhD. That seemed incomprehensible to me. I don't remember his name, I think he was in Boulder. Bruce something?

I can see how freestyle wrestling would make for a great foundation to be a climber - a combination of strength-weight ratio, kinesthetic awareness, practice in a highly technical sport. What other sports would have ideal carryover to climbing? Obvious ones coming to mind are gymnastics and martial arts.

Ain't this the guy that climbed Levitation 29 the day after a mega rain event?

Hank Caylor wrote:

Not sure what you mean with anything you said here. You are right though, the year I signed onto MP is totally crazy for you to think.

that comment wasn’t personal in the slightest? hank buddy, you are legit, and it’s more a testament that you were hanging out on here in 2003 (I was in kindergarten). just fun to think about!

Great episode, love the podcast guys, keep it up! Armand, keep crushing, hmu if you ever need a partner in the high country (nc). 

Armand La Douceur wrote:

Just a hunch… I don’t think the “zero” described literally translates to a route graded 0. Who knows?

To me, without reading the article "Zero" means someone who never did any formal climbing but was involved in some other formal athletics for a long time before climbing. 

Just for the record, it’s now actually from Zero to 5.14 in 28 months - congrats on sending Hellcat Armand! 

Dave Graham when 5.13 in 3 months 5.14 in 9 months.  This was back when shoes were so much worse and training tools were not available.  

Mark Vigil wrote:

Dave Graham when 5.13 in 3 months 5.14 in 9 months.  This was back when shoes were so much worse and training tools were not available.  

Dave Graham climbed in two of the greatest shoes ever made, in the V10’s and Dragons. Sharma climbing in pontas is a far better example of climbing in horrific shoes. 

Mark Vigil wrote:

Dave Graham when 5.13 in 3 months 5.14 in 9 months.  This was back when shoes were so much worse and training tools were not available.  

Many people suggest the single best training tool is the 45-50 degree board. The first example to my knowledge was in Andy Pollitt's cellar in Sheffield from about 1988. The legendary School Room board, precursor to the Moon Board, was built in 1993 and is still in use. Alex Huber was using a system board (around 40-45 degrees if I recall correctly) from around the same time. Dave Graham started in 1997 so he'd have been fine for training in Europe. I'd be surprised if there were not US equivalents by then. Does anyone know what DG did to get good? 

Congratulations to Armand. Wrestling sounds like it would make good preparation for bouldering both physically and in being able to suffer. Elite sportspeople from other disciplines come into climbing with a good idea of what a proper training program looks like and what trying hard feels like which gives them a head start. 

duncan... wrote:

Many people suggest the single best training tool is the 45-50 degree board. The first example to my knowledge was in Andy Pollitt's cellar in Sheffield from about 1988. The legendary School Room board, precursor to the Moon Board, was built in 1993 and is still in use. Alex Huber was using a system board (around 40-45 degrees if I recall correctly) from around the same time. Dave Graham started in 1997 so he'd have been fine for training in Europe. I'd be surprised if there were not US equivalents by then. Does anyone know what DG did to get good? 

Congratulations to Armand. Wrestling sounds like it would make good preparation for bouldering both physically and in being able to suffer. Elite sportspeople from other disciplines come into climbing with a good idea of what a proper training program looks like and what trying hard feels like which gives them a head start. 

I can't say for certain whether or not Dave  Graham used any specialized training apparatus when he was young, but I believe that he ' got good'--by being very talented, having similarly talented and motivated peers, starting young, but mostly climbing intensely all the time--both indoors and out ( fortunately with a climbing area  with what was then cutting edge potential (Rumney) in relatively close proximity).

duncan... wrote:

Many people suggest the single best training tool is the 45-50 degree board. The first example to my knowledge was in Andy Pollitt's cellar in Sheffield from about 1988. The legendary School Room board, precursor to the Moon Board, was built in 1993 and is still in use. Alex Huber was using a system board (around 40-45 degrees if I recall correctly) from around the same time. Dave Graham started in 1997 so he'd have been fine for training in Europe. I'd be surprised if there were not US equivalents by then. Does anyone know what DG did to get good?

Congratulations to Armand. Wrestling sounds like it would make good preparation for bouldering both physically and in being able to suffer. Elite sportspeople from other disciplines come into climbing with a good idea of what a proper training program looks like and what trying hard feels like which gives them a head start. 

He did the same thing every other top climber does.  Has great genetics.  There are no tools to replace natural talent.  When it comes to climbing a high level quickly, genetics are the only thing that matter.  

Drugs didn’t hurt 

Wrestelers have a ridicoulous work ethic.  Climbing is actually pretty easy to learn if you have decent genetics and a good work ethic.  I feel its pretty normal for someone who imersess him or her self into climbing  to reach the level of ability of their peer group in a year and a half. They with be missing the experience nessicary to be safe at trad, ice, alpine and adventure climbing but sheer dificulty can be accomplished rather quickly if one really applies themself. 

Go Back to Super Topo wrote:

Dave Graham climbed in two of the greatest shoes ever made, in the V10’s and Dragons. Sharma climbing in pontas is a far better example of climbing in horrific shoes. 

This is true. 5.10 made some wonderful high performance shoes even by today’s standards in the mid ‘90s to early aughts.

Wrestling is all pull, much like climbing. That’s probably the biggest attribute to climbing ability. 

ZT G wrote:

Wrestling is all pull, much like climbing. That’s probably the biggest attribute to climbing ability. 

All pull, huh? Core strength (including hamstrings), explosiveness, cardio, flexibility, and strength to weight ratio all seem like pretty applicable attributes…

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Where do we find these 0 rated routes? 

Jtree descents

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

All pull, huh? Core strength (including hamstrings), explosiveness, cardio, flexibility, and strength to weight ratio all seem like pretty applicable attributes…

Former D1 wrestler. Pull is important but yes for high level wrestling you need all around strength plus a level of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning that few sports require. I wrestled into my early 30's which is when I started climbing and for the most part it was a good base except for the mass in my legs which was a lot more than you need or want for climbing.

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

All pull, huh? Core strength (including hamstrings), explosiveness, cardio, flexibility, and strength to weight ratio all seem like pretty applicable attributes…

How many years did you wrestle? 

and?