New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #32

Brandt. Mine just came in a plain white box. They run more than 2hrs at full strength in single digit temps. Still showing 75percent charge after last night's adventure. 

Li Huwrote:

My goal is to not get injured whilst upping my climbing grades.  

Good to hear this!

My goal is to not get hurt as I work my down through the climbing grades.

Jim Malonewrote:

My goal is to not get hurt as I work my down through the climbing grades.

This is a very, very insightful comment. I would add to it: "...not get hurt and continue to have a lot of fun as I work...."

A friend ( one who has posted on here occasionally in the past but I'll leave as anonymous) ruptured his Achilles tendon in a gym bouldering fall a week ago, has had reparative surgery, and will be 'out of action' for about 6 months. As others have said, be careful out--and in--there, especially those of us who are no longer as young as we like to think we are!!!!

Paula just told me about it this morning Alan after we saw you yesterday - of all things- bouldering!   Sorry to hear about that.  Hope he makes a speedy recovery.

Hi all - still here!

@todd - thanks for asking, I’m doing ok. I’ve been reading the book you recommended. Memorial service is Jan 11 and it will be good to be with people who loved him as much as we did/do. Really hard not having remains recovered or knowing what happened.

This is a link to an NSCA position paper on resistance training for older adults (I think I’ve shared it before) 

NSCA paper

The training principles are the same - higher reps (12-15) for endurance, lower reps for strength (5-8). The intensity (load) and rest between sets matters too. For strength you should be lifting at 85% of your 1 rep max with long rests (2-5 min) in between sets. For endurance, 67% of 1rep max with 30-60 sec between sets.

I have my older folks (some are as old as 95) doing 6-8 reps and I want them to have trouble (without losing form) on that last rep. For people new to lifting we start with lighter weights until they get the movement patterns down, then increase weight pretty quickly. It all depends on what your goals are. We tend to neglect training power (ability to extert force quickly) which is so important athletically and functionally. Think about how quickly and forcefully muscles have to contract to recover from a trip and prevent falling. So I work that too.

If you are going to take the time to lift, you should be getting the most out of it. My approach is to do the fewest number of exercises that will get a whole body workout and avoid injury while maximizing gains. 

I do personal training online as well as in person and am happy to work with anyone and help set up a program.

Jim Malonewrote:

My goal is to not get hurt as I work my down through the climbing grades.

That as well within a few or couple years…  

@Lori - that is fantastic news about Tony. I’m sure he will be motivated to work hard and get home. You pretty much saved his life getting him out of there and into a good facility.

We got out and climbed yesterday - volume day with 11 pitches of 5.easy (everything 5.9 and lower). It was great to be out - did a couple 2-3 pitch routes, mostly sport but a couple trad lines too. I haven’t placed gear in awhile and really enjoyed getting back into that. The toes are feeling it today! 

Erika - Thanks for the helpful info and comments on weight training. The NCSA thing was alwful dry reading (just kidding) but full of good science-based advice. With all the personal opinions and folklore out there, it was very much appreciated.

Alan Rubinwrote:

A friend ( one who has posted on here occasionally in the past but I'll leave as anonymous) ruptured his Achilles tendon in a gym bouldering fall a week ago, has had reparative surgery, and will be 'out of action' for about 6 months. As others have said, be careful out--and in--there, especially those of us who are no longer as young as we like to think we are!!!!

I had my climbing partner do exactly that about 6 years ago when he was 70.  He fully recovered and is still going strong.  You really need to watch out for those volumes in the gym.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

 as always climbing a 200ft tall frozen waterfall in the dark is a surreal experience but when you add full conditions it gets even more surreal.

The exit from the steep part was much fatter and easier than last week . It's still 130ft off the deck and blowing snow in single digit temps at night... 

a nice stance after the crux

The last 70ft of snow covered slab was kind of annoying, can't feel your fingers and have to be extra cautious even though it’s easy climbing. Two short bulges just before the top give you two more opportunities to Fck up and die if you are not paying attention to your footwork. 

Badass Nick, and sketchy af. Be safe out there! What are those work gloves you’re using to climb ice in single digits?

Just found this pic of my mom on the summit of Mt. Washington in the early 70’s when I was just barely a teen.  It was -20 at Pinkham Notch when we started, but were more than prepared with snowshoes, ice axes and crampons and we summited in cold but no wind bluebird conditions.

I was very lucky to have her as a Mom.  Not only tolerated, but joined in to my lunatic adventures.  She is 85 and driving up for Christmas, still going strong.  I hope and pray that I will do as well.

Great to hear, Lori! Remind Tony he's got a whole cheering squad out here, wishing him the best!

Erika, that memorial should be good for all of you. Being with the people who care, swapping stories, hugs, and tears....maybe all at the same time. I can't speak for others, but I've personally enjoyed the pics and stories of your friend that you've posted elsewhere. 

I'm going to piggyback off of Erika's situation, of not having full closure with what happened. Not knowing. No body.

This is when some of us do end of year giving to various organizations. My son is a long time local search and rescue guy, and more then a few of their missions end up being recoveries, not rescues. But those are also a success, precisely because of how much it means to those who are left grieving. So do please consider SAR units, wherever you are. It's one way to support the community.....when the.community needs it most.

To everyone, hope you get whatever is needed, at this time of year. 

For myself? 

I'm happy the sun starts coming back, always a plus. And Hanukah is days away, that's always a literal light in the darkness, and it's so nice to have such a quiet holiday in the midst of holiday madness.

Plus it is also (very cleverly) the holiday of food fried in oil. 

@Nick. Damn. You, sir, are why I lay claim to having climbed ice. Not that it was on lead. Or hard. Or single digits. Or in the dark. Or solo.

But still ...

To all of us on here?

Remember, always, we are ALL badasses, maybe in really modest ways compared to many others, but there's still always the defiantly muddling onward, no matter what "they" expect us to do.

@Tony. You, sir, are a badass also. Don't forget that, and don't let them get you down, keep fighting! 

H.

Colden. Kinko driving gloves. They fit well  and are warm enough. I have warmer bulkier gloves in the pack if I need them but like the grip and feel of leathers.   Not too sketcky. it was more the being up there by myself at night in those temps with the wind knowing that any little misshap  hiking or sking could get serious in a hurry. the actual climbing is reasonably casual. I boulder this route about once a week untill Willoughby comes into shape. 

Erika… that’s the paper! Thank you for posting it again. I knew I’d never find it.  and yes, I would absolutely love some coaching from you and I’ll send you a message.

In the last week or so, my understanding of strength training has radically changed. I thought it was really for bodybuilders but I’ve been looking for ways to train for rock climbing so I didn’t think it was necessary.

I now think I got it backwards. Trying to find the energy to climb and the energy to train to climb – – I am really tired. I’m just not doing anything well. Suddenly, I feel I should go all the way back to fundamentals of fitness and good health including strengthening my entire frame.
I am now looking at strength training as its own thing— not as the solution to Climbing harder. I think that because I’ve been climbing, I assumed I have not lost muscle, but I can see that I definitely have everywhere. That may even be why I screwed up both knees and why I’m more and more sore after any exertion.

I love New Year’s resolutions but this year I’m only going to make one – – I will focus on strength training. (Well, I do have a second New Year’s resolution and that’s to catch a ringtail in the park. Or at least get a picture of one.)

Global warming, poverty, politics, forget all that. I’m just going to learn how to lift weights. 

Kris, thank you so much for the book recommendation. I ordered it. It’ll be here tomorrow and I really appreciate Barbara offering that advice.

—-

I appreciate all the well wishes for Tony. I think I’ve hit my biggest snag. He just wants to come home. He feels like it’s good enough, as much as they are supporting him and keeping him very busy with physical therapy I don’t know if his heart can be in it. I told him he should stay as long as he can and see this through. I think he will regret it if he leave before he’s ready. I can honestly understand how shitty this whole thing is – – and at Christmas.

https://www.medpagetoday.com/neurology/alzheimersdisease/113419?xid=nl_mpt_morningbreak2024-12-17&mh=82ad8bed2b0cb59483928142967f335a&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=MorningBreak_121724&utm_term=NL_Gen_Int_Daily_News_Update_active

So here is an interesting study I came across...It struck me that climbers, surfers and skiers are constantly doing "real-time spatial and navigational processing" while engaged in their sports. Good news for our brains!

Lori, Try your best to convince Tony to accept that therapy is a long term project. Not only in the hospital but even when he gets home. Those therapists have goals for patients to meet to ensure a good outcome. 

Best wishes for both of you.

phylp phylpwrote:

https://www.medpagetoday.com/neurology/alzheimersdisease/113419?xid=nl_mpt_morningbreak2024-12-17&mh=82ad8bed2b0cb59483928142967f335a&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=MorningBreak_121724&utm_term=NL_Gen_Int_Daily_News_Update_active

So here is an interesting study I came across...It struck me that climbers, surfers and skiers are constantly doing "real-time spatial and navigational processing" while engaged in their sports. Good news for our brains!

After reading this I would also conclude that onsight climbing would include more "real-time spatial and navigational processing" over projecting. They say bus drivers ranked at  #263, I  assume similar rankings for mail carriers too, same routes over and over. 

M Mwrote:

After reading this I would also conclude that onsight climbing would include more "real-time spatial and navigational processing" over projecting. They say bus drivers ranked at  #263, I  assume similar rankings for mail carriers too, same routes over and over. 

Yes I thought that too! And gym probably less than outdoors, because the holds are colored and so much less to figure out.