The latest, greatest 2:1 hauling kit

One more thing I've noticed that hasn't been discussed much but is actually a game changer in my mind is adding a petzl connect adjust on your z cord instead of the 2 carabineer clove hitched, not really any weight added since you just need one binder now, and allows you to fine tune your position, so many time I'm just too lazy to adjust the clove hitch, but sometimes that 2 inch difference give you a much more comfy and efficient position, with the adjust on the z cord you can play with it and adjust it perfect right away, and shorten it for the last few pulls to bring the bags just a bit closer.

I’m working on dialing in my haul kit. Thoughts on Petzl Pur line as a zed cord? How about Sterling Powercord? Both are available by the foot at my local shop.

Also, re: the top pulley—am I really giving up much using a nice high efficiency prusik minding pulley (the bell-shaped kind with swinging side plates) tied with a short loop of Sterling 9/16” webbing, compared to one of these SMC/Rock Exotica rigs with the built in pulley?

Thanks for any advice/insights. 

Slim Pickens wrote:

I’m working on dialing in my haul kit. Thoughts on Petzl Pur line as a zed cord? How about Sterling Powercord? Both are available by the foot at my local shop.

Also, re: the top pulley—am I really giving up much using a nice high efficiency prusik minding pulley (the bell-shaped kind with swinging side plates) tied with a short loop of Sterling 9/16” webbing, compared to one of these SMC/Rock Exotica rigs with the built in pulley?

Thanks for any advice/insights. 

Coolness factor, yes, efficiency/functionality, maybe a bit but not enough that you’ll notice. 

J D wrote:

One more thing I've noticed that hasn't been discussed much but is actually a game changer in my mind is adding a petzl connect adjust on your z cord instead of the 2 carabineer clove hitched, not really any weight added since you just need one binder now, and allows you to fine tune your position, so many time I'm just too lazy to adjust the  clove hitch, but sometimes that 2 inch difference give you a much more comfy and efficient position, with the adjust on the z cord you can play with it and adjust it perfect right away, and shorten it for the last few pulls to bring the bags just a bit closer.

This is sort of a good idea! 

Mark Hudon wrote:

This is sort of a good idea! 

I’ve been using a petzl adjust on the z cord for a few years and encouraging others in the valley to do the same. Everyone who has tried is immediately converted. I think it’s a game changer because it makes it so easy to dial in your haul stance from “good enough” to “perfect.”

Michael Vaill wrote:

I’ve been using a petzl adjust on the z cord for a few years and encouraging others in the valley to do the same. Everyone who has tried is immediately converted. I think it’s a game changer because it makes it so easy to dial in your haul stance from “good enough” to “perfect.”

Yeah, I’m going to try it next spring. 

Michael Vaill wrote:

I’ve been using a petzl adjust on the z cord for a few years and encouraging others in the valley to do the same. Everyone who has tried is immediately converted. I think it’s a game changer because it makes it so easy to dial in your haul stance from “good enough” to “perfect.”

Are you bringing another "Adjust" or using an existing daisy like the Petzl Duel Connect. I've always found the Single Adjust to be too short for aid climbing, but I could see it being a nice feature for a free endeavor...

Jason Antin wrote:

Are you bringing another "Adjust" or using an existing daisy like the Petzl Duel Connect. I've always found the Single Adjust to be too short for aid climbing, but I could see it being a nice feature for a free endeavor...

I use a thin low stretch spectra z-cord as recommended by Mark and others. You just slide the petzl adjust hardware onto it. You can buy the overpriced petzl hardware and throw out the included cord, or find an alternative. Google “rock climbing arrestor ascender” and you’ll find options. After all, it’s just a cast piece of aluminum.

Note about the common knockoff online: it doesn’t release under tension as easily as the petzl so I wouldn’t recommend it for leading. Although, if you’re a real aid climber, im sure you’re already using an alfifi.

I always tied the z cord off with a munter mule.  I never understood the use of a clove hitch.  Seems like a connect could be nice but I guess I don't feel like I change the z cord nearly enough to warrant it.

Michael Vaill wrote:

I use a thin low stretch spectra z-cord as recommended by Mark and others. You just slide the petzl adjust hardware onto it. You can buy the overpriced petzl hardware and throw out the included cord, or find an alternative. Google “rock climbing arrestor ascender” and you’ll find options. After all, it’s just a cast piece of aluminum.

Note about the common knockoff online: it doesn’t release under tension as easily as the petzl so I wouldn’t recommend it for leading. Although, if you’re a real aid climber, im sure you’re already using an alfifi.

It would be a lot cheaper to buy a KONG Slyde for $10.  Might be worth trying out. 

Knockoff Petzl Connect:

https://www.amazon.com/harayaa-Climbing-Arrestor-Ascender-Protector/dp/B0DF2PSSTZ

Currently $23

Mark Hudon wrote:  Skot Richards and I just climbed Aurora on El Cap and we used his hauling kit shown in the photo.

It is totally da bomb!

The Z cord is some beef, totally no stretch spectra type stuff that Skot found and the whole  kit is not heavy it all.

If you need to put together a 2:1 kit, simply enlarge this photo to see specifically what the units are and go buy them. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel or be cheap. Skot and I have been working on the 2:1 kit for years and you will simply not make any significant improvements to it at this point. 

So Charles and I had an interesting experience with our 2:1 systems when we blasted off on our final push of the Heart Route.  

We had done a resupply mission up the fixed lines at the base of the Heart - camping down at Liver Ledge - and we spent a few days fixing hundreds of feet up the rather [shall we say] "organic" pitches up the Heart. Some of the hardest C1 climbing you'll ever do! The placements were all pretty good, after you spent an incredible amount of time cleaning out all the dirt and grass!

When it was time to finally blast from Liver Ledge, Charles went up first to operate the 2:1, while I followed along next to the pigs to nurse them over the various ledges and obstructions. The bottom bit of the Heart - "bit" being relative since the Heart feature itself is damn near 900 feet high! - is rather low angle, and the pigs were moving excruciatingly slowly, in spite of me counterweighting the opposite end of the haul line as Charles was 2 to 1-ing. When I got up there, I'm like, "Dude! You're doing it wrong! It can't be this bad!" And Charles is like, "Then why don't you take over the 2:1, and I'll go down by the pigs."

So we switched positions. It only took a few minutes of [trying] to haul with Charles' crappy-cheap-undersized-piece of shit 2:1 rig, before I realized that it was total junk compared to mine. I have invested substantial $ into my system, buying two very high-efficiency pulleys. The top one is the Petzl Rescue Pulley, which is either 95% or 97% efficient. The lower pulley is 2% less efficient. We use Skot Richard's Ultimate Zed Cord, which is the best I have ever used. It comes in two sizes - mine is the thicker, Charles' is the thinner.

I was incensed! "DUDE! All you have done by using this POS 2:1 system for the last two hours is manufacture work for us!" I think the pigs moved 2x as fast? 3x as fast? 4x as fast? using my 2:1 system with the really good-expensive-efficient pulleys, compared to using Charles' system. Now in fairness to Charles, he didn't have the experience to realize how much harder it was to haul using his system than mine, but it took me all of a minute and a half to know.

Now you will rightly point out that these were Dr. Piton-sized Big Wall Camping loads, and you will also point out that this was a horrible low-angle haul with the pigs dragging up a slab, and having more friction, and being a far worse haul than most of you might ever do in your entire wall climbing career. I agree. But that ain't the point.

The point is this - there is a HUGE difference in efficiency, work and effort when you compare using an "OK" 2:1 system, compared to a "really efficient" 2:1 system. HUGE! In Charles' crappy case, it worked, but it was hard work. In my case, we moved a load of food, water, beer and wine up a low-angle slab and over obstructions rather easily.

Do you like working harder than you have to? Do you like hauling? If so, buy yourself a cheap 2:1 system. But if you want to do less work on the wall, and not sweat, and enjoy your holiday, invest in some really expensive high efficiency pulleys and make your life easier!

It doesn't matter whether your pigs are a hundred pounds or three hundred pounds - if you haven't forked out the dough to buy high efficiency pulleys, then you're working too hard!

Conclusion: Buy high efficiency pulleys! The amount of extra $ you spend will be returned to you exponentially in saved effort.

I am Dr. Piton,
And I have hauled more pounds of Junk Show up more vertical feet than any other person, living or dead.  

P.S. Now, let's have a look at this other 2:1 hauling thread on this forum, because I'm about to kick the piss out of some of the stuff pictured!

Caveat: Apologies - Charles suggested we take photos of his system and my system side by side so yous guys could see the difference, but we were pretty tired by the top and couldn't be assed. But it will come, I promise. Until then, you will have to take my word for it. ;)

Note: Charles and I use the Kong Block-Roll, rather than the Micro-Trax, in our hauling system, which negates the need for the wire "Frost" draw.  

Mark and Skot - what are the efficiencies of the two pulleys in your system above?  Cheers.