Fingerboard or Kilter/Touchstone/Tension/Moon boards to build strength to get to V9?

At V4/5 strength with the 10 second protocol and above.

V0-V2 on TS board are relatively easy now. I can do 6-8 problems within a 20 minute period warming up. Still need to warmup prior on V3/V4 problems in the general gym. Then hit V0 warmups and progress to V1 and V2 before attempting hard problems.

V2 on the TS feels more like V3 in the gym, at this point. Just requires more athleticism. V4 and V5 are approachable, but still project climbs with 10-11 attempts per hour.

Easily TR two 5.11c and am really close to finishing a couple 5.12c projects. 5.11d remains difficult to RP and flash. My comfortable lead is 5.11a/b, and very uncomfortable on 5.11d.

The strength metric appears to be correct for me.

Making some progress.

Adding back the full grip with large weights along with half crimp with less weight. Starting weighted pull ups again. Training to get comfortable on the campus board medium rungs.

Attempting harder problems on TS board.

Kilter board, sent a V5 with 45 degree overhang. Was difficult.

Finally, strong enough to campus in a controlled manner. Of course, on the juggy holds. Medium rungs are doable, but I can see potential for injury unless I ease gently into it.

Loved reading about your progress, keep up the work

Moved up north. Getting used to those knobby campus boards at my new gym. Can barely hit half a board up, but it’s good that I get to engage my thumbs.

Made it 3/4 up

The knobs. Medium rungs are starting to feel more comfortable.

Did a couple Moon Board V3 set at -20 degrees.

Building Power-Endurance on long harder routes.

4 sets on the knobby campus board. The landing isn’t great cause of the knobs and the padding below is a bit short, so I stopped one from the top to do some pull-ups.

Backed off to one campus session per week. Letting my body heal helps.

Tried the medium rungs, and they feel better now. Will continue on the knobs for another month, then  progress to the medium rungs.

My week looks like this: Campus/Climb, Yoga (Hatha style), Climb/boulder, Yoga(Vinyasa), Climb, and on weekends Yoga(Yin) style one day and rest the other.

It’s a slow progression, but I’m finally getting stronger overall without injuries. Can work up to V7 without feeling that I’m straining anything.

How's it going Li? Last update sounded like a lot of really solid progress.

My wife and I had our first kid a few months ago - turns out parenting an infant can really eat into climbing/training time. I haven't really gotten outside since she was born but I've been in the gym consistently and have been having fun on the set boulders. I've mostly been doing volume repeats and my two best sessions so far have been: 4 V8s and 9 V7s (all the set 7s in the gym), and a session where I did 6 V8s. I have a rest week this week but I think I'll continue the same protocol for a bit longer until it gets less fun. I'm hoping for a fall rope climbing season and I'm optimistic that the volume of bouldering in my session will be sufficient to improve my ability to do cruxes higher off the ground with more cumulative fatige - we'll see! Once I get bored with this I'll switch back to the TB2 and try to do more limit bouldering over there.

Hopefully that's not too much unsolicited spray!

Chris Spalding wrote:

My wife and I had our first kid a few months ago - turns out parenting an infant can really eat into climbing/training time

A home board frees up a lot of time. When she is older you can even combine bouldering and babysitting.

Victor Creazzi wrote:

A home board frees up a lot of time. When she is older you can even combine bouldering and babysitting.

A home board would be awesome! But it's not realistic with our current space constraints. Maybe one day