Looking for scenic sport routes

Hi! In less than two weeks a buddy and I will start a road trip from New Orleans to Los Angeles. Climbing is not our main goal during this trip, but at the end I'll spend a month in EPC so we'll bring our gear. My friend has never climbed outside (and is a little rusty), and we are two European guys who are not familiar with this type of scenery, that's why I would love some tips on the most beautiful sportclimbing options along our route. Places that would make a Dutch city slicker weep with joy due to the overwhelming beauty of the American spoils of nature, so to speak. Attached is the route we'll be taking, more or less. Thanks in advance!

Matt H wrote:

How did you decide on this route?

This is not the exact route, but we wanted to do a road trip from New Orleans to Los Angeles, and then into Mexico. Is it that bad? Haha.

We wanted to visit the Grand Canyon, some national parks around the Utah/Arizona border, and my friend really wanted to visit a vintage store in the southwestern corner of Colorado, haha.

Matt H wrote:

Well, ill try to give a nuanced opinion.  

Thanks for the nuance! For us, some of the nothingness is the appeal. We live in the most densely populated country in Europe (not counting city states) and don't really get to experience this, even when we to go the mountains. This route is not the exact route, but more of a crude line drawn between some points. If you have any tips about which routes to avoid, or to seek out, please let me know! We'll be going pretty fast through Texas, cause there ain't a whole lot to do or see. Probably driving from Austin to Albuquerque in two days. That'll be a slog, but we're okay with that. We'll have more time in New Mexico, Arizona and Utah that way. We'll be sure to bring a gas can! Would driving through north Texas solve some of these problems? See picture below. We picked the other route because we would like to visit Marfa. But with the southern route we'll also pass Hueco Tanks, Davis Mountains, Guadeloupe Mountains, Las Cruces and Truth or Consequences. The northern route seems a lot flatter and less scenic in that regard.

We have about 20 days to get from New Orleans to LA. We're doing a mix of AirBnB, hotels, motels, camping where possible.

The route you picked is miserable. Amarillo is a hell hole (Palo Duro Canyon not withstanding).  I highly recommend that you head West towards El Paso, stop in in Hueco Tanks, and then take the I-25 corridor North. 

Frank Stein wrote:

The route you picked is miserable. Amarillo is a hell hole (Palo Duro Canyon not withstanding).  I highly recommend that you head West towards El Paso, stop in in Hueco Tanks, and then take the I-25 corridor North. 

Yeah I did some quick streetview drops and.. oh boy. That seems like the right play.

Driving through Texas sucks, no matter on the I-40 or the I-10. Personally I would stay south as long as possible and cruise the 25 north to ABQ. But I'm not going to tell you how to map a route. That's part of the fun! 

You wanted scenic sport climbing areas, generally Moab and south. I dont know your climbing. Based on your post its seems you would want moderates and your partner probably doesnt want 45 minute grueling approaches either, so I'll leave those out. I'm going to assume your route is adjustable. I dont know NM or CA very well; I will leave that to others. As for Texas, LOL:

Arizona

• Mt Lemmon - Tucson  - good grade spread, easy to find additional partners, weather will be fantastic. You'll go from Sonoran Desert (saguaros and palo verdes) all the way up to sub-alpine forest in a 45 minute road. fun, scenic sport climbing all up and down. pick you climate zone based on the weather. Windy point in particular has a great spread of route plus fantastic scenery. Stay in town, or campgrounds along the highway. 
• Cochise Stronghold - Sunsites (along the 10) - is a bit adventurey, but its stunning Sonoran/ Chihuahuan Desert beauty and there is a good sport climbing there in the West Stronghold. Camping available.
• Christopher Creek - Payson - coming up on winter in rim country, but its been dry so far. Really beautiful quartzite, compact area, short approach, good spread of grades. If you want a long 5.8 sport route, this is the best collection of them in AZ. Theres a running creek with swimming holes at the base (not that youll be swimming, but its an ambiance).
• Fun Ship and Fire Wall - Sedona - Is it the best climbing in Sedona? assuredly not. but its fine, its great sunny aspect, and its Sedona, one of the most beautiful places in America and should not be missed. Sedona is where the Colorado Plateau ends. Red and white sandstone arrayed in spires and towering cliffs.
• I'd tell you to come up to Flagstaff, and we have some excellent and scenic winter crags, but approaches are arduous, weather is fickle. PM me if youre in the area and want to know more. 

Nevada

• Red Rocks - Las Vegas - Its a trad crag, but there is plenty of bolts to clip and its stunning everywhere you look. Camping sucks. get an AirBNB

Utah

• Moab - Most of the Colorado Plateau (Red Rock) desert is going to be primarily Trad but there is a little sport in Moab worth the time if you are visiting Arches/Canyonlands. Its getting cold by now, so chasing sun. For scenery, 
  • Take out Beach sits at a nice position in the canyon above the Colorado river. you can hear the road below though.
  • Ice Cream Parlor is pretty nice too. 
• St George is pretty prime this time of year. Chasing sun. Tons of sport climbing spread out everywhere on a variety of rock types. STG is best known for the limestone west and south of town headed towards the NV border. Its all gorgeous. Some requires high clearance vehicle (not including those).Transition zone between multiple desert ecosystems. If you are visiting Zion (you should!) STG is a stop for sure. To me the standout scenic areas would be:
  • Prophecy Wall - 1-2 pitch sport climbing. Stunning and my favorite crag in STG. higher elevation though, with like a west aspect, so can be cold, but sunset...goddamn. 
  • Woodbury Road Crags (black and tan, etc) - Sharp limestone. austere, beautiful Mohave Desert (joshua trees and cresote). This is also the warmest crag in the area. Avoid Solstice Wall. Its actually as pretty as it gets, but its Chert limestone and is so sharp you might hate climbing afterwards. Nice campsite at the base of Solstice for access to the whole area. 
  • Zen Wall - Approach is longish, but flat. the climbing is mid. Scenery and setting are awesome
  • Lambs Knoll - Technically not in Zion, but its very close. Incredibly beautiful. Camping nearby.
  • Snow Canyon State Park - There are some fully bolted routes, but they are slab, and so not exactly "Sport climbing." Its really awesome though if you are confident

Hope this helps! Enjoy your journey. 

Chris Burton wrote:

Driving through Texas sucks, no matter on the I-40 or the I-10. Personally I would stay south as long as possible and cruise the 25 north to ABQ. But I'm not going to tell you how to map a route. That's part of the fun! 

Thank you so much for this mountain of information. Really appreciate the effort! We actually liked driving through Texas, haha! Climbed in Diablo Canyon near Santa Fe today, it was lovely, and we'll climb in Moab this Monday. Wall Street looks beautiful but the road is a bit of a turn off. Will probably head to Ice Cream Parlor. Looks amazing and hopefully no crowds on a Monday morning. I will keep looking at your list. Again, thank you so much.

Don't be scared of Wall Street.

If you haven't done the last leg of your trip yet, from Las Vegas to Los Angeles, I'd recommend a different route.  Going via Bakersfield is not at all scenic.  There are two other options which would be much nicer and take you by some good & scenic sport climbing, but it depends how much time you have left.  If you want some info just reply here where you are currently and how many days you have left to get to LA.