New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #32

Idaho Bobwrote:

Arcteryx is no longer an independent Canadian company.  Acquired by Solomon years ago.  That's a French company.  There would just be a work around.

The Salomon Group acquired Arc'teryx in 2001, both of which were bought by Amer Sports in 2005.  

In 2019 a Chinese consortium composed of Anta Sports and several other Chinese companies acquired Amer, which is why President Xi Jinping wore an Arc'teryx parka for the Beijing Olympics opening ceremony.

Amer also owns Atomic, Wilson, Peak Performance, Armada, DeMarini and Louisville Slugger.

Terry Ewrote:

The Salomon Group acquired Arc'teryx in 2001, both of which were bought by Amer Sports in 2005.  

In 2019 a Chinese consortium composed of Anta Sports and several other Chinese companies acquired Amer, which is why President Xi Jinping wore an Arc'teryx parka for the Beijing Olympics opening ceremony.

Amer also owns Atomic, Wilson, Peak Performance, Armada, DeMarini and Louisville Slugger.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ht7nOaIkpI

Terry Ewrote:

The Salomon Group acquired Arc'teryx in 2001, both of which were bought by Amer Sports in 2005.  

In 2019 a Chinese consortium composed of Anta Sports and several other Chinese companies acquired Amer, which is why President Xi Jinping wore an Arc'teryx parka for the Beijing Olympics opening ceremony.

Amer also owns Atomic, Wilson, Peak Performance, Armada, DeMarini and Louisville Slugger.

So, the bottom line is that we ( or those of us who can afford to) WILL be paying more for Arc'teryx gear, since Chinese companies will be hit with even heavier and more extensive tariffs than Canadian companies.

Thanks Ed and others who have responded to some of the foreign policy nonsense posted by Yuri and others and those of you who have pointed out the reality of how unreal many of RFKjr's actual beliefs are---I just couldn't summon the mental energy right now to respond myself.

Beautiful looking formations Tim and Guy--so much great rock out there, so many beautiful places, too little time!!!!

I read that pro puntin hogwash and then went for a walk in the woods behind my house with my rifle. Sat by the junction of two flowing streams. It was peaceful. The sound of the water. The gently falling show. No Bambi's so no extra work involved. 

  Seriously, Russia invaded Ukrain in 2014 and again  two years ago. All this talk about its Ukraine's fault for wanting to join Nato justifying that is just so much bullshit. They got invaded. They want some extra protection and help from us. No Fucking shit .     Russia invanding Ukraine for them wanting to be strong and able to protect themselfs is just as bad as us invading Iraq  because Sadam was a tough guy.   If you pick a fight with every tough guy on the block you end up looking the asshole. Just leave them to their own misery and beat the fck out of them when and If they actually attack you.   Should have stayed out in the woods....

Geez....get busy, and get a whole iteration behind. I tried to skim, and get caught up, back when I was about 20 pages behind....in #31.   

Anyway, work is wrapping up on construction here, still have lots of fence to build, and the weather decided it's winter. 

I got tired of election stuff long before the election. I'm glad I'm in the flyover state of Idaho. Just keep doing/believing whatever you are doing/believing and largely ignore most if not all governance and outside stuff, lol. It's a very long tradition here. 

I'm tired of Christmas music. Wish there could be Christmas music free hours at stores.

I'm tired of dark. Anyone here do anything to mark/acknowledge the solstice, and the return of the sun? I planted about a bazillion bulbs this fall, that's my big investment in tiny little reminders of hope. That's all gardening ever is, an optimistic vote for the future.

Anyway, still alive, haven't climbed inside or out in ages, nor been in any sort of gym. Just actual physical work.

Today is more of the same, plus pick up a full 4 person cooked turkey package...for just myself. Portion most of it up for the freezer.

Then it's the long multipronged process of going through literally every single thing in this house...to be able to shrink way down and occupy the new house. If I don't love it...its outta here, and only replaced with stuff I do love. Have a bunch of new stuff stored in my house until it gets permanently housed in the other house. Then....work on this house. Long range? I might consider getting everything entirely done, both houses, and just sell the whole shebang. 

Anyone try watching The Summit? The "climbing"? And "rappelling"?    

Best, a very tired H.

Hellen. Glad to hear that you are still alive. hope your spirit is well. 

M Spraguewrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ht7nOaIkpI

This affects Goretex and pretty much any outdoor gear! There doesn’t appear to be any alternative at the moment?

ed esmondwrote:

"Zelensky volunteered Ukrainians to fight on behalf of the US..."  

I doubt there's any "more information here" anyone could provide that would help Yuri's sorry a$$ed argument.

Yurt’s not completely wrong, many or most of Ukraine’s forces are conscripted at this point. They’ve run out of the more experienced fighters other than the mercenaries from the West.

10% of their nation was in their military. Many were mercenaries prior to the war, but were killed by Wagner.

Ukraine used to be a very much military nation.

One thing all the “humanitarians” seem to have forgotten is that the war is on Russia’s doorstep.

If Russia allied with Canada, and threatened to put nuclear missiles near Toronto and Montreal USA would likely go to war with Canada, again.

The average Canadian would just leave the country until it’s over and USA annexed the country. Oh right, like many Ukrainians did leave “until it’s over”.

I listened to a podcast by Alexander Megos interviewing, Eric Horst on the subject of diet and nutrition for climbers.  Nothing really new there – – same emphasis on a minimum of 100 g of protein per day – – but the walk down memory lane recalling Climbers in the 70s and 80s who had no concern about their diets other than finding enough calories to keep going “the real cowboys”, contrasted by the growing understanding of the importance of fueling the body for athletic performance.  There sat Alex looking the picture of vegan health and trying to grasp performing at his level while eating crap.

It just clicked for me. Helped me understand the turnoff that occurs when discussing health and diet, especially among older climbers. Concern for “proper fueling” just wasn’t a thing among dirtbaggers—nor is it today.

While personally, I’ve come to think that there needs to be a whole new set of rules and guidelines for people over 65.  Where we could once give the middle finger to all matters of health (I recall a diet my friend and I cooked up, called the hostess Twinkie diet, which we turned to when we wanted to be ready for bikini weather, and it usually included some form of speed), Today I am precise about my diet, sleep and exercise, and have finally accepted that I will suffer if I deviate by much.

As pretentious as it sounds to think of oneself as a “performance athlete“ that’s the closest description we have. I know it’s laughable. But it’s not a casual endeavor for a senior citizen to be climbing hard and some adjustments have to be made.  I am making peace with using a scale to weigh food, eating a lot more meat than I normally would have, taking some supplements, measuring my sleep and recovery.  

What is missing for me in Eric Horst and other trainers protocols is what is appropriate for a 65 or 70 year old? You don’t want to empty the tank. I read through his schedule of pyramid training and I know that’s not for me. But I found a new gym yesterday and hopped on the leg press and easily pushed 180 pounds to start – – so, what will “my circuit training” look like?  What does yours look like?

—

Nick, beautiful picture and spot on sentiments.

I don’t want to burden this thread with too much about Tony, but his situation is sure making me ask some tough questions for myself.  For one, I need to start looking at what happens when I can no longer live independently? It looks like Medicare pays for 100 days in a nursing home. What happens after that?

I woke up in the middle of the night to a flurry of texts from Tony – – he was in “excruciating“ pain, had been hitting the button for his nurse for hours, and no one had answered.  He didn’t want me to call because he thought it would only make things worse for him. What the fuck? I immediately called, the night nurse picked up (2:00 am) she made an excuse, and while I was on the phone ran a pain pill into his room.  

Today he’ll be transported to a vascular surgeon and I will be meeting him there.  

What I am desperately trying to stifle is the question of how we got to this place.  It would start to sound like I am blaming Tony for the decades that preceded where he is right now.  I know that any one of us, even those who have taken pristine care of themselves, can get here.  Next, it could be me.  

—-

Kris, I took a look at that route, of course there’s a very sweet picture of you climbing it.  I know Bob and I have climbed something at the Labor Dome.  I am 1000% focused on three routes this year, but maybe can get over there to check it out.  

Lori Milaswrote:

I listened to a podcast by Alexander Megos interviewing, Eric Horst on the subject of diet and nutrition for climbers.  Nothing really new there – – same emphasis on a minimum of 100 g of protein per day – – but the walk down memory lane recalling Climbers in the 70s and 80s who had no concern about their diets other than finding enough calories to keep going “the real cowboys”, contrasted by the growing understanding of the importance of fueling the body for athletic performance.  There sat Alex looking the picture of vegan health and trying to grasp performing at his level while eating crap.

It just clicked for me. Helped me understand the turnoff that occurs when discussing health and diet, especially among older climbers. Concern for “proper fueling” just wasn’t a thing among dirtbaggers—nor is it today.

Agreed, 100gm minimum seems to help?

I feel better having more protein as well. Is this for everyone? Don’t know? But definitely helps me.

Were “dirtbaggers” climbing as hard as the athletes of today?

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

 All this talk about its Ukraine's fault for wanting to join Nato justifying that is just so much bullshit. They got invaded.

But isn't it the rape victim's fault since they dressed up all pretty?

(Deeply sarcastic... in case that wasn't apparent.)

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

I read that pro puntin hogwash and then went for a walk in the woods behind my house with my rifle. Sat by the junction of two flowing streams. It was peaceful. The sound of the water. The gently falling show. No Bambi's so no extra work involved. 

  Seriously, Russia invaded Ukrain in 2014 and again  two years ago. All this talk about its Ukraine's fault for wanting to join Nato justifying that is just so much bullshit. They got invaded. They want some extra protection and help from us. No Fucking shit .     Russia invanding Ukraine for them wanting to be strong and able to protect themselfs is just as bad as us invading Iraq  because Sadam was a tough guy.   If you pick a fight with every tough guy on the block you end up looking the asshole. Just leave them to their own misery and beat the fck out of them when and If they actually attack you.   Should have stayed out in the woods....

Some of your posts make me miss my dad's old Lee–Enfield (British military) .303.  I never did much with it, and my brother really wanted it, so I let him take it. I don't regret that by the way - he gets some use out of it and I wouldn't have (and my dad's still around too - he'll turn 90 in January - but he and his wife downsized massively about 10 years ago and so the rifle had to go).

Helen! So good to get some news from you. Hope the construction goes well. Before you know it June will be here and we'll meet again at City.

Lori - Just happened to be at Labor Dome yesterday. Women's Work is indeed a beautiful line, but we opted for an easier route just left of it. I'd recommend Working Overtime, a very nice 5.9 crack climb on the left side of the formation.

Brad, My dad brought this one back from the barber shop sometime in the 60s to use as a deer rifle. Gave it to me when  I was 14.  iits a lend lease with the crown stamped on it so it was part of the UK arsenal in WW11  and all you dumb fuckin putin lovers  need to stop watching his news/ propaganda channels. 

Li Huwrote:

Yurt’s not completely wrong, many or most of Ukraine’s forces are conscripted at this point. They’ve run out of the more experienced fighters other than the mercenaries from the West.

10% of their nation was in their military. Many were mercenaries prior to the war, but were killed by Wagner.

Ukraine used to be a very much military nation.

One thing all the “humanitarians” seem to have forgotten is that the war is on Russia’s doorstep.

If Russia allied with Canada, and threatened to put nuclear missiles near Toronto and Montreal USA would likely go to war with Canada, again.

The average Canadian would just leave the country until it’s over and USA annexed the country. Oh right, like many Ukrainians did leave “until it’s over”.

The war is on Russia's doorstep because Russia started the damn war! 

If the neighborhood bully keeps harassing you and your friends. You have every right to do whatever it takes to ensure your own safety. The same goes for every country. The bully doesn't get to dictate the terms of your safety and security. 

Canada has every right to form that alliance with Russia. And if it did, we would need to take a hard look at what is going on in our own country for that to happen. But either way, your scenario isn't happening.

The Ukrainian people just want to be free to live their lives. This isn't rocket science.

Lori, Concerning diet and performance---there is no 'one-size fits all' answer or set of answers---it varies so much for each individual, at any age. Sure there are some general guidelines and parameters, but the reality is that there are some who generally eat 'crap' and still perform at high levels, while some others who are very strict about what they consume just don't. There are so many other factors and variables that are relevant. I'm with Russ on this, I just think that obsessing over such things can actually be more of a hindrance ( or distraction) than be helpful. Sorry, just my opinion.

While, I'm here ( and being cognizant of daily post limits), on a different topic. Li, NATO wasn't trying to 'recruit' Ukraine--in fact, there was considerable reluctance to have it become a member, Ukraine wanted to join ( still does) as protection against it's very aggressive imperialist neighbor, Russia. I am unaware of any American effort since the very early 19th Century to annex Canada. As far as Ukraine being a 'very military' country, what examples of this can you give me since the Middle Ages? Any recent military buildup has been a direct response to that same aggressive neighbor---no indication whatsoever that Ukraine was trying to expand into Russian territory, but only trying ( with limited success, unfortunately)  to protect it's own territorial integrity.

You have suggested similarities between the situation in Ukraine and Taiwan --not an unreasonable comparison. You mentioned that you are of Taiwanese background, though don't live there currently, so it is very possible that you are more aware of attitudes there than I am. However, I have the strong impression that a large majority of the Taiwanese population have no desire to be ruled by the mainland Chinese government. Please refer me to any data showing otherwise, if you believe that I am incorrect.

And, that mainland Chinese government is very far from doing 'everything right' as you also mentioned in a previous post. Even putting aside the little detail that it is a totalitarian government, even their middle range economic outlook is very questionable, given the demographics resulting from the misguided 'one child' policies.

Alan... you're making it hard to leave the point alone.     Perhaps those who are in effortless good health simply don't ever feel the connection between their own self-care and their health, which is fine.    

I once had a counselor tell me that I was 'obsessed' with monitoring my blood sugar and other health-related metrics--although we still know each other, 40 years later, and she has changed her tune on this. In her life she never had to think about her health, what she ate, or what she did (until now, when It's all pouring down on her).   As a Type 1 Diabetic, things can go south quickly.  I consider it no problem at all to watch my blood glucose and diet 24/7... we have no choice. Bob will probably concur the level of effort it takes to be out for 4-6 hours, climbing hard, with blood sugars potentially bottoming out or soaring.  It's just routine to take a look at my glucose level before starting a climb.   Thank goodness for meters and pumps, which I have pretty much wired.  And I have diabetic friends, and a son, who DON'T want to bother with it... the effects of neglect are terrifying.  

Likewise, after the first two years of climbing I found myself continually exhausted, in bed, unable to function for a day or two after climbing, and it was so baffling to me.  I just didn't have a choice but to figure out what I needed in order to be able to carry on.  There ARE studies, guidance, roadmaps for diet/aging... but they sure aren't being presented in a casual doctor's visit. All I wanted was the 'recipe book' for staying healthy at my age.  Given the alternative, I don't mind at all being more aware, it's really second nature..  

---

But I did want to offer this here.  Been thinking about this since I read it last week.  A quote from David Lynch, one of my favorite film directors.  A lifelong heavy smoker, he was diagnosed with emphysema in 2020, but didn't quit smoking until 2022.  Today he relies on supplemental oxygen for anything more strenuous than a walk across the room — and he wants to warn other smokers that the same could happen to them. 

"Although the consequences of smoking have been a “big price to pay,” Lynch says, “I don’t regret it. It was important to me. I wish what every addict wishes for: that what we love is good for us.”

And he insists he wouldn’t change a thing about including cigarettes so frequently in his work. “I never thought about it as glamorizing it,” he says. “It was a part of life. Some characters would be smokers, just like in real life.”

His is a refreshing point of view... Lynch loved smoking, he knew the risks, he chose to continue... and he's not sorry.  

Li Huwrote:

This affects Goretex and pretty much any outdoor gear! There doesn’t appear to be any alternative at the moment?

I'm not sure about this. I needed a new rain jacket, and I really wanted to get a Rab jacket that was very light, thin and flexible. However, it wasn't marked as sustainable, and was made with PFAS. I wound up selecting something that was marked as sustainable and PFAS-free. https://rab.equipment/us/womens-downpour-light-waterproof-jacket
Of course, it may contain some other chemicals that will later be found to be deadly. You have to work with the info that you have at hand.

Lori Milaswrote:

I don’t want to burden this thread with too much about Tony, but his situation is sure making me ask some tough questions for myself.  For one, I need to start looking at what happens when I can no longer live independently? It looks like Medicare pays for 100 days in a nursing home. What happens after that?

Options if you need more care: If you have LTC insurance, you hope that they will cover an extended stay or extra care at home (you may have to fight with the company to get it).

If the hospital says you are not fit to go home, then you can try to insist on going home and getting some help from a trustworthy local person. I think it's rare that you will be kept from going home, unless you've been declared incompetent. Perhaps others know more about this.

If you have the finances to stay in a rehab facility or nursing home, you can pay for your own care. Depending on where you are, that's what, $300/day on average in the US. You can pay until you go broke (possibly bankrupt?), at which point you go on Medicaid. Then if you are found to be incapable of caring for yourself, you're in a Medicaid nursing home. They aren't all bad. For many people it's better than the alternative. YMMV.

Interesting anecdote from BITD. Not sure how meaningful it might be. While in an F-16 squadron stationed at Hahn AB (496th FS) in what was once West Germany, one of my additional duties was Plans Officer. Basically it meant keeping all plans up-to-date and making sure the leadership and other pilots knew the basics of them. There were occasional exercises to practice what we could of said plans. Interestingly, there was no plan that I knew of that involved invading Warsaw Pact countries (it is certainly possible something existed above my pay grade and security clearance, but I wasn’t aware of anything, and all our exercise scenarios were defensive in nature). It was all about stopping the Soviet tank divisions from pouring through the Fulda Gap. (Yes, we simulated attacking targets in Eastern Europe, but always with the goal to turn back the Soviets and “win the war”… it wasn’t about taking territory.)

It was an interesting time as I was there from ‘89 into ‘91 with all the Wall stuff happening. We even went through an already scheduled NATO TacEval (a major exercise and evaluation of our three squadrons, conventional and nuke capability, maintenance, security, and support) after the Wall had technically fallen, an exercise that started with the aforementioned Fulda Gap scenario.

I also seem to recall in the early 90s that there was a lot of hope in the air and there was even talk of the new Russia joining NATO (!!!) but I’m not sure how serious that was. I guess it was too much to expect Russia to transition to a true, corruption-free, oligarch-free, democracy in just a few short years. (Even a basic familiarity with Russian history and literature should have made that plain.)

Anyway, as to climbing I have to say I’m jealous of all the gorgeous crag pics of late. We are down here in Mendoza, Argentina until early January visiting two grown daughters and three grandkids (the latest, a girl, is now a month old). So in the past six weeks here I have only had one short session at the local bouldering gym. Mostly it is grandparent duty, which is very enjoyable… but they aren’t climbers—yet. I’m trying to do a fair amount of regular gym weight work and some mountain biking so I don’t get back to Barcelona as a fat couch potato. But not climbing is tough to accept (but “acceptance is the answer to all my problems!”)

So, keep posting those climbing pics so I can keep adding to my bucket list and live life vicariously through all of you.