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Fix Old Routes Before Bolting New Climbs

Original Post
Pineapple Fan Girl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2024 · Points: 0

Kinda grinds my gears when people bolt new “not classic” climbs when a bunch of old climbs need to have their gear replaced. Rant over.

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,741

You could always learn how to replace hardware yourself.  It's not rocket science.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

If you want something done right, have someone else do it.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,330

I agree, you should definitely rebolt old climbs before you bolt new routes. Let us know when you get one done. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
Pineapple Fan Girlwrote:

Kinda grinds my gears when people bolt new “not classic” climbs when a bunch of old climbs need to have their gear replaced. Rant over.

You must be new around here cause you do not seem to know how it works.

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0
Allen Sandersonwrote:

You must be new around here cause you do not seem to know how it works.

Tom R · · Maryland · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 254

Resisting the urge to suggest bolting Snake Dike instead of bolting new routes, just to get people riled up.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170

You're annoyed that someone isn't doing more.  That's the point of this post.  Got it.  

Pineapple Fan Girl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2024 · Points: 0

Apparently 10 people agree with me if we trust the thumbs up button, so it’s not that unpopular of an opinion.

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1
Pineapple Fan Girlwrote:

Apparently 10 people agree with me if we trust the thumbs up button, so it’s not that unpopular of an opinion.

Popularity of your post isn't a factor in how things work.

Unless you're climbing in a very rare pay-to-play climbing area, the bolts you're clipping were put in by someone who did it on their own time. They paid for the bolts out of their own pocket. They'll put those bolts where they please. You have no room to request something be done differently unless you want to do it yourself. At that point your post isn't relevant because you can just go replace the old bolts on the classics you speak of. 

Your sense of entitlement in your post is a bit gross. 

Connor Dobson · · Louisville, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 269
Pineapple Fan Girlwrote:

Apparently 10 people agree with me if we trust the thumbs up button, so it’s not that unpopular of an opinion.

Go away bot

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

The ASCA has an open ear to knowledgeable suggestions.  Your local gear shop can help you, too, in finding ways to help the cause.

Money donated speaks volumes. Actions speak louder than words. 'Give', 'Donate', and 'Volunteer' are highly respected verbs.

It IS best to leave such talented toils to professionals who are trusted to carry out quality work. 

If you trad climb, you empower yourself to decide the quality of your protection, each and every clip!

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175

Great, another generic bolting whine.

George M · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 136

Puppies and pineapples, trolling and bolting
These are just some of my favorite things

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

^^^

I need another verse over here!!!!

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

This sounds like the idea of someone who hasn't done any bolting. 

A great majority of the routes I've done are in more obscure areas closer to home. It's the adventure of it that appeals to me. Hike out to a blank canvas. Find the best lines. Figure out the puzzle of where to put the bolts to protect the cruxes and provide good clipping stances. Bypass some climbs altogether because they aren't quality. 

If I lived near a big popular climbing area I'd do more rebolting. But when I'm there for a few weekends a year I'm not spending all my time working on community service. 

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,430
Pineapple Fan Girlwrote:

Apparently 10 people agree with me if we trust the thumbs up button, so it’s not that unpopular of an opinion.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Pineapple Fan Girlwrote:

Kinda grinds my gears when people bolt new “not classic” climbs when a bunch of old climbs need to have their gear replaced. Rant over.

Lots of us do both 

Pineapple Fan Girl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2024 · Points: 0

I believe that if someone is going out to bolt, whether it's for rebolting or establishing a new route, the most logical choice is to focus on bolting or rebolting the best climbs.

With the proliferation of poorly done routes alongside excellent old ones, it seems to me that some developers are more interested in the glory of first ascents than in creating quality climbs. Perhaps we need to better recognize those who rebolt, but I often see new three-bolt, one-star climbs appearing next to neglected nine-bolt, three-star climbs.

I maybe should have worded the thread better but maybe we should recognize good rebolting or bolting rather than just first ascents.

Jake Neem · · Salt Lake City · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 10

Find a local scene of route setters/maintainers 

Volunteer your time in assisting them and or your money in replacing bolts. 

Hardware isn't free and these are not people with unlimited time to just go replace bolts whenever they get the slightest inkling to do so. 

If you're not just a troll and you want things to improve/change why not take the first step and involve yourself? 

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388

I haven't posted for almost 2 years to these forums.  

I always laugh when people say stuff like "they should rebolt climbs that need it!"

Pineapple Fan Girl, by being a member of the climbing community, you are now officially a "they." Buy a drill and get to fixing some routes!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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