I did not plan this trip well at all, please help (inspire) me!!!
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Seems like we are all mainly in agreement: Could the OP keep this route and get in some enjoyable climbing? Yes, with ample suggestions. Are there probably better options in terms of climbing quality with a different itinerary? Yes, also with ample suggestions. I think at this point the OP probably has enough info to make an informed decision based on their priorities. I might reiterate what someone else mentioned above though: that mapped route is a lot of driving. OP, have you done an extended road trip in the US before? I think it is easy to underestimate just how big the US is compared to Europe. |
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When did we decide that someone named Francesca, who describes herself as female on her profile, is a dude? |
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I think people sleep on the quality of Midwest climbing. The biggest issue with Midwest climbing is that it is far and few between and generally short. For instance, the Carbondale, IL area (holy boulders, Jackson falls) has some immaculate sandstone and better climbing than most stuff I've touched in CO. It could definitely be a destination but no one outside the Midwest really knows about it. Baraboo, WI and HCR are also legitimate destinations. I don't think I'd recommend OP's itinerary for a month long climbing trip but there is certainly climbing as good as anything out west if you don't mind short stuff. |
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As someone else mentioned, if you’re coming with a climbing partner then enjoy finding all the little weird crags across the states you want to visit. If you’re needing to find partners once here, then definitely stick to the major areas. Your timeline is pretty short for how many states you’re planning on visiting, and most of the Midwest/plains states aren’t known for their climbing. There is beautiful hiking though. Be prepared for cold weather and the potential of snow in the northern states/on mountain passes towards the end of your trip. You’ve glossed over all the wonderful climbing in Utah (maybe you’ve already been there) but your timeline is great time for desert sandstone. Indian Creek is amazing, highly recommend. Easier logistically than Red Rocks (better free camping options, not in a national park, can pretty much always find climbing partners in the parking lot), though different stylistically. There is also great climbing around SLC. If you’re set on ticking off states you haven’t been to, perhaps shift the focus of your trip to exploring back highways and national forest areas and traveling a bit slower to really experience those states in their own right. Your route really misses some of the more pretty parts of the plains states and you’ll be driving through flat cornfields forever. I did quick math and added up the driving hours of your route and it’s 61ish hours of driving, so you’ll likely spend a third of your trip just driving from place to place. (Assuming mostly daytime driving and 10ish hr drive days) |
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Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify; I’ll be travelling alone and climbing sport and trad, so finding partners will be a challenge in some places. My perfect crags will have slab and face routes. I’ve decided to alter my plans. Instead of driving south towards Arkansas I’m going to head towards Ten Sleep as I’ve always wanted to go there but it’s never been in season on previous trips. From there I will head west but can’t decide whether to get to Red Rocks (I’ve been there multiple times, easy to find partners, cheap accommodation) or explore more of Utah, Colorado. I can come back on next years trip to tick off the final of the lower 48 states. |
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Francesca Parrattwrote: I've had several fairly introverted friends attend that event, and it really just sounds like a crowded crag day with extra motivation to get in pitches. Lots of cooperation between groups to make all of that happen. It might not be all that bad. Ha. I hear Ten Sleep is pretty cool, so have a great time there. I'll be in Ohio for three dang weeks for work. Never been to Ohio and I'm getting five weeks total there. |
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That plan makes sense and clarifies things. For vert sport, Ten Sleep is a good choice. If it gets chilly there, look into The Sinks outside of Lander, The Grail outside of Mesquite NV, or even Shelf Road for that style. The Fins in Idaho are also good option, but I’m not sure about mid-fall conditions there. |
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I have driven across the country multiple times. As others have said, you need to decide what the trip is about - seeing the country or climbing. The swing into the south there is adding at a minimum 3 driving days, not to mention other time for checking things out etc. Is it worth 3 driving days+potentially empty days otherwise (if you end up between places) on a big trip for what you're looking to see there? Only you can make that decision. |
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Palisade head along lake superior in Minnesota is absolutely beautiful and has great climbing. |
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Francesca Parrattwrote: This sounds like a better plan. When you do eventually visit the midwest, I would strongly recommend Jackson Falls in southern Illinois for slab and face climbing. It would pair nicely with a city trip to St Louis. |
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I live in Missouri, so I can chime in on quite a bit. First, the weather. It won't be predictable. You may have gorgeous weather, 50F and dry, or it may be 85F and muggy. That will have a huge impact on your trip. You won't know until a few days out. Second, the bugs. It's chigger and tick season here. Look up chigger bites online before you decide to venture through any vegetation here between July and the first frost. I don't go climbing anywhere I have to hike through vegetation during this period. If you do come, bring insect repellent, and spray liberally all over your legs if you are hiking through vegetation. Third, the locales. The objectively best climbing in this region is at Holy Boulders and Jackson Falls in southern IL, which is pretty far out of your way. The Holies are pretty rough until the first hard frost. Chiggers, ticks, and poison ivy abound. Elephant Rocks is OK climbing, but not great. There are fewer concerns about biting insects and poison ivy, the trails are paved and clean for the most part. The granite is incredibly sharp. You could shred your tips there and be ruined for a week of climbing. Some of the rock formations do look amazing though. It's a family park, so if you go on a weekend, there will be lots of people there around the boulders. Some of the sandstone bouldering in southwest Missouri may be your best bet if you don't want to drive out of the way, but I know next to nothing about it. It's pretty off the beaten path. I'd try to hook up with a local. The Wichita Mountains in Oklahoma are awesome, but again, might be hard to navigate, and hooking up with a local would help. I'd imagine the weather/bug situation there is the same as Missouri. Arkansas has a lot of good climbing outside HCR, and it will likely be pretty empty during the comp. Maybe think about those other areas if Arkansas is the must-hit state? The Midwest has enough climbing to keep me busy, and the lack of crowds are great, but I wouldn't recommend it to someone flying over as a climbing destination. If you are looking to "tick" states, that's another story. The best months to climb here are from late October to early April, but the winter months are hit and miss as you depend on warm sun to make it pleasant. Edit: Just saw you changed your plans. Good idea. |
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Buy a ticket from Minneapolis to Vancouver and spend the entire time at Squamish? |
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If you're headed to WY and want some challenging trad, Vedauwoo is more than worth the drive. |
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Update; thanks for the guidance. Flying into Minneapolis (as can’t change the flight) Gonna head to Ten Sleep for around the 28th. Hang out for about a week and then head south into Colorado and stay there for the majority of the trip and save the mass of driving, have a more chill break. I’ve been to Red Rock many times, so would be nice to situate myself somewhere different. Also spent a fair bit of time in Utah. Currently deciding whether to base myself closer to Colorado Springs or Denver. |
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The best climbing I have done in other parts of the US is not at the popular areas, but rather at the small, indescrept crags. I couldn't agree more. So many charming areas that are visited almost exclusively by locals but are just as much fun as the hotspots, the climbing is good and a lot more peaceful. But, of course, each to his/her own. But, to the original poster, I apologize for this information-less tangent. Good luck with your trip. |
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Francesca Parrattwrote: For all my crap talk about Midwest climbing, as someone who lives in Denver, I will also throw out that climbing in the Front Range of Colorado is also not necessarily destination worthy. Great place to live for climbing due to the sheer quantity, but not really world class quality for visitors. Personally I would spend more time up in Wyoming, maybe going to Lander after you are done with Ten Sleep. Shelf road down in Colorado would be nice too, although more crowded on the weekends. These are of course sport climbing recommendations, if you wanted to mix things up with trad then Lumpy or Eldo or Vedauwoo would be options. |
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SKIP ALL THAT MIDWEST S$%T. People only climb there if they have to. If you aren't going to RRG or NRG then don't bother. Head straight to Wyoming/Utah/Co. |




