I did not plan this trip well at all, please help (inspire) me!!!

I’m flying out to the US on a climbing/ road trip on the 23rd September.

Pictured is the approximate route. I’m flying into Minneapolis then was going to be driving down to Arkansas to check out Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. The idea of this is to tick off the last of the lower 48 states that I haven’t been to (the ones with all the corn, tornadoes and no climbing). However I’ve just discovered at the time I was planning to hit HCR it’s the exact same time as 24 Hours Horsehoe Hell. The idea of this competition has always intrigued me, it sounds wild, but the wild part does not. I’m an introverted, socially awkward human who does not do well in crowds.

Questions- is there anywhere from Minneapolis downwards that has any good climbing? Will there be areas in HCR not busy, if so will I be able to find partners? Should I just reorder the whole dang trip and tick off the last of the lower 48 another time (I can always head west via Wyoming or maybe teeter off east towards the Red)?

After HCR my plans were to head west towards Red Rocks via Santa Fe and then back into Colorado before heading back to the airport via North Dakota.

The only set dates I have are around the 18/20 October I need to be in Colorado, then my flight home (from Minneapolis) is on the 23rd October.

Inspire me!

If you boulder, Elephant Rocks is right in the middle of Missouri. If you boulder there you will be edging on lines that John Gill opened before any of us were born! Ok, not quite "in the middle", but you get the idea.

Elephant Rocks State Park.  

PS - have you seen the Honnold video about the 24 hour hell contest?

Look man, all im sayin is that if you push it a little further east you can access some absolutely incredible claiming in NC,TN,KY!!

Personally I would avoid anything in the South/Southeast/Midwest like the plague right now as it will be crazy hot and humid, and head up through Wyoming or wherever instead to chase good conditions. Ymmv and I have low tolerance for heat + sunlight while climbing.

Really you have to decide what your priority is - ticking off the last of the midwest states vs. getting in good climbing. These two goals are pretty much in opposition. If you prioritize seeing these midwest states, you can find random climbing in these states, but recognize that you would be flying all the way from the UK to climb at mediocre areas that most American climbers don't even bother with. Arkansas might have been an exception, but sounds like you have decided to rule that out due to the 24HHH. 

If you do want to prioritize quality climbing (especially since October is one of the best months weather wise for climbing in the US), considering you have to be in Colorado at the end of October, it seems like the best use of time would be a tour of the Intermountain West. Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Vegas come to mind.

I want you to do the 24 Hours Horsehoe Hell with a sketchy partner as an introvert and then post your expierince. It would be a blast!

To answer the actual question, Devil's Lake, Willow River, and Governor Dodge are vaguely on the way. And I guess they're kinda fun. But they're max a few hours from MPLS so you don't really gain a nice halfway stop. I guess you could swing a bit east to Jackson Falls, IL and the other SoIll crags; but at the cost of several extra hours in the car.

To answer a different question, that is a lot of driving for a month trip. As unsolicited advice, I would suggest cutting out the Vegas spur and hanging in the Rockies instead. It'll save you two full days of driving and I hear that the climbing in Colorado is surprisingly decent. Also, swinging through theTower and the Black Hills could be worthy stops on the way back to Minneapolis. But if you're doing CO to MN in just a couple days you won't have much time to climb.

Anyway, report back after!

Sam's Throne is very close to HCR and has fantastic climbing. I prefer going there honestly. Trad and sport, with other crags around the area like Candy Mountain. I'll be competing at 24HHH that coming weekend, and from past experience, it does get pretty wild! There is no climbing at HCR during the 24 hour event, but you can climb some eastside stuff during the 12 hour if I remember correctly.

I did 24hhh four times and I feel like the rowdy/party feel got blown out of proportion in some videos. Its goofy and fun and a ton of people, but not a free for all full on rager the whole time like the reel rock video portrayed. But it will be very busy and full of people wanting to hang out and talk with you, so if that's what you're opposed to it would def be worth going there a different time. It is still busy there in general, but much quieter and spread out than during 24hhh

get out of the midwest so humid and hot

u got a crazy amount of driving planned use cruise control 6-9 mph over the limit max

ideal climbing is at wyoming ten sleep, wild iris, lander if u can enjoy steep limestone sport climbs easy to find partners

blackhills and needles much harder to find partners

maybe devils tower wyoming for trad cracks easy partners

if u like to party and seek type two fun and getting tendonitis go to HCR but it is humid and awful noisy and crowded

colorado after wyoming maybe do two visits on the way to and from red rocks or stay put and relax and acclimatize to the 5,300-13,000 elevation climbing  like via pikes peak toll road 

colorado is great as it has no humidity no thunderstorms in fall and is not hot unless its midday in the sun baked south facing formations

find  excellent trad at lumpy ridge and eldo and sport and trad in boulder canyon and free camping at upper dream canyon 

amazing sport at staunton 

maybe lime creek and independence pass and leadville to see fall folliage aspen leaves change color also black canyon of the gunnison easy partners 

if u go west to red rocks and seek climbs in the shade still too hot for the long approaches and long multipitch baking in the sun cannot carry enough water to stay healthy until winter time temps but cheap hotels if u search of las vegas deals 

bring double the money and maybe drive way less and camp more 

or sign up for couch surfer to stay for free along the way 

How much is climbing a part of your trip goals? There is actually a surprising amount of climbing that can be ''eked out' generally along your proposed route of travel, as long as you are willing to detour a bit and are 'open-minded' about the nature of the crags you would be visiting---though much of the climbing itself can be fun and challenging---not all that different from many of the more local areas in the UK.

I won't try to detail the various areas--a 'tour' through the state-by-state route information here in MP will provide some basic information about what is available, but I'll mention a few areas I think are worth visiting if you want to climb and will be driving within reach. In Minnesota itself, Taylor's Falls ( Interstate Park) is close to Minneapolis and has some nice basalt short routes and boulders. Further south in central Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park is a major area ( for the Midwest, at least)--with a long history ( including John Gill solos that were likely the hardest routes in the country when he did them), short routes on unique polished quartzite that pack a punch---sandbags galore!!!! Well worth a detour in my opinion ( admittedly , it is where I learned to climb so holds a special place for me). Moving south, in southern Illinois there are several areas in close proximity to Carbondale, of which Jackson Falls is the best, which are on rock that has been called 'gritstone'---it isn't 'true Grit', but is still an excellent climbing medium.

There are limestone, granite and volcanic outcrops in central Missouri close to your route--often not of the greatest quality, but maybe still worth a stop if passing by. There is a very large amount of good quality climbing in Arkansas, some in close proximity to HCR, so you should easily be able to avoid the 24 Hour crowds, though finding partners will be an issue---perhaps other 'refugees' doing the same crowd avoidance. However, HCR does have a great concentration of accessible routes and potential partners, so could you alter your schedule by a few days to avoid 24 Hours?

There is good granite in Oklahoma--Quartz Mt. and Wichita Mts., plenty of areas in New Mexico.  On your way back east, if you go via Interstate 70 through Kansas, roughly mid-way through the state---near Minneapolis, KS, and only a few miles from the highway, you will find Rock City---a field of isolated, small rounded boulders in the middle of hundreds of miles of rock less flatness. The bouldering is very small and limited but the area and location is so unique it is worth the stop for an hour or so of exercise. Further east there are some surprisingly good limestone outcrops in eastern Iowa.

Hope this gives you some ideas for possible stops. The weather in late Sept/Oct should be great---as long as there are no tornadoes!!!!

A small point. The guy is visiting from Europe for one month, and we are recommending Midwest backwaters, Missouri, Oklahoma and even Kansas. I live in New Mexico, a state with a plethora of legitimately good climbing, but I would never, ever recommend it to a visiting climber. Same goes for Arkansas. 

I will disagree with Frank here.  The best climbing I have done in other parts of the US is not at the popular areas, but rather at the small, indescrept crags.  I live two hours from the ditch (Yosemite), but almost never climb there.  Anywhere in the US which is well known, you will be spending the entire time climbing staring at the ass crack of the climber above you - who wants that especially when you have travelled so far?  All of you who are dissing on the middle part of our country live here and it is no big deal if the trip does not work.  You have your Sprinter and the boss does not care, so you can visit any time.  Who wants to travel across the ocean on a 12 hour fight risking all kinds of diseases on the plane only to be waiting in a line with ticket 00876 when ticket 00850 is on the route?

OP, you did not mention that you were bouldering, solo roped climbing, or needing partners.  If the situation is the last, then it is a bit harder.  You said you are not necessarily a people person (I am the same).  Thus, I assume you are going towards doing bouldering or rope solo climbing.  If so, the world is your oyster.  You will have great time in the mid-west.  However, if you aim for the major places as some people are directing you to, I hope you like waiting in line and waiting on routes.  Illinois and Missouri have some good climbing where you will not be bothered by other people.  Southern Illinois has great bouldering.  Missouri and Arkansas have great bouldering.  If you want some bold trad rope solo leads, head to Quartz Mountains in Oklahoma where there will not be crowds to deal with.

A small point. The guy is visiting from Europe for one month, and we are recommending Midwest backwaters, Missouri, Oklahoma and even Kansas

Did you even look at his map?

This "plan" looks like a road trip. Let's turn it into a climbing trip: 

1) Fly in to Denver or Salt Lake

2) Go to Vedauwoo (WY). 

3) When it gets too cold, go to Indian Creek (UT). 

4) Return home.

With only one month time, pick 2-4 high class destinations and don't bother with the mediocre choss in between.

Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

Frank, the climbing in new mex is good but about as good as the recommended. That’s with the my consideration of new mex climbing being good by the way 

Go mid east! Or is it mid west?

I moved to and started climbing in NM in 1989. I have also climbed in all of these States, including extensively in Arkansas. I would say that the sport climbing in AR is as good, perhaps even better than NM. I love Mt. Magazine, but NM trad climbing is leagues better. As for Oklahoma, Missouri, Wisconsin and Minnesota, it is laughable to say that the climbing is just as good. And again, I would NEVER recommend New Mexico to visiting climber. Instead, if west of the Mississippi, one should go to Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, California, or even Colorado.

I’ll add a caveat. Hueco is an “honorary” NM crag. If one is a boulderer, it is absolutely destination worthy. 

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Did you even look at his map?

I assume that he is not wedded to “the map.”  “The map” objectively sucks for a climbing trip. 

Mark Fletcherwrote:

I will disagree with Frank here.  The best climbing I have done in other parts of the US is not at the popular areas, but rather at the small, indescrept crags.  I live two hours from the ditch (Yosemite), but almost never climb there.  Anywhere in the US which is well known, you will be spending the entire time climbing staring at the ass crack of the climber above you - who wants that especially when you have travelled so far?  All of you who are dissing on the middle part of our country live here and it is no big deal if the trip does not work.  You have your Sprinter and the boss does not care, so you can visit any time.  Who wants to travel across the ocean on a 12 hour fight risking all kinds of diseases on the plane only to be waiting in a line with ticket 00876 when ticket 00850 is on the route?

Suggesting that some tiny nondescript crag in the Midwest is preferable to Yosemite valley is truly the hottest of hot takes. Perhaps this should belong in that other thread.

Personally if I was going to fly all the way to Europe and do some climbing, I’d want to go to the famous world class stuff, not some local swill that few people visit for good reason. Also suggesting that you’ll be crowded out in Wyoming is laughable.

Once again, if climbing is a secondary priority, then you can still make it work in the Midwest and probably have fun. Your quality climbing would be maximized with other options though.

hifnowrote:

Suggesting that some tiny nondescript crag in the Midwest is preferable to Yosemite valley is truly the hottest of hot takes. Perhaps this should belong in that other thread.

Personally if I was going to fly all the way to Europe and do some climbing, I’d want to go to the famous world class stuff, not some local swill that few people visit for good reason. Also suggesting that you’ll be crowded out in Wyoming is laughable.

Once again, if climbing is a secondary priority, then you can still make it work in the Midwest and probably have fun. Your quality climbing would be maximized with other options though.

Completely agree with all this.

It's a bit hard to make suggestions though, since it it unclear what OP's priorities are. Hopefully they chime in again to clarify what they're looking for from this trip. As it stands, they have a road trip to visit a bunch of states, with some climbing stops mixed in. That is totally fine if that is what they want. But if they want an optimized climbing trip, that ain't it.

OP should clarify what their "road-trip" goals are, and also what they want from the climbing parts of the trip. With that information, it would be easier to suggest itinerary refinements. 

Side note: They're going across the southern part of the US in late September and early October-ish, which will still be on the warm side. Again, how much do they want to optimize for climbing?

Frank Steinwrote:

I moved to and started climbing in NM in 1989. I have also climbed in all of these States, including extensively in Arkansas. I would say that the sport climbing in AR is as good, perhaps even better than NM. I love Mt. Magazine, but NM trad climbing is leagues better. As for Oklahoma, Missouri, Wisconsin and Minnesota, it is laughable to say that the climbing is just as good. And again, I would NEVER recommend New Mexico to visiting climber. Instead, if west of the Mississippi, one should go to Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, California, or even Colorado. 

First, as Cherokee suggested, I was just providing ideas of potential places to visit in light of OP's proposed itinerary as outlined on his map and in responding to a question that he asked. I believe that I was clear, and OP seems to be very aware, that none of the areas that I mentioned are world class destinations.

On the deeper issue, though, of what is a 'quality  climbing experience', I believe that is a very individual determination. While, obviously climbing long routes in spectacular settings usually ( though not always) contributes to wonderful experiences, I have found that I can get great satisfaction climbing in much more 'humble' circumstances. Big isn't always better, even in terms of climbing. Look how many folks spend all their climbing time on boulders  under 20', often deep in the woods somewhere.

I have climbed at a number of the midwestern areas I mentioned, including most of my first 4 climbing years at Devil's Lake, and had great, memorable times at most of them. Though it has been over 40 years, I still very fondly remember the delightful hour or so we spent playing around on sit-down problems ( and I'm not usually a boulderer) at Rock City, Kansas, just marveling in the uniqueness of the place and our experiences there. Being open-minded and making the most of what is available can lead to many wonderful climbing ( and other) experiences. So I don't think that it is 'laughable' at all to say that the actual climbing at, as an example, Jackson Falls, can be just as good as any comparable amount of climbing in Yosemite. 

Having fun at a crag is a totally personal initiative. I agree with the sentiment that I’ve had more fun at my local pile of choss putting up FA’s than I’ve had at any world class crag, domestic or abroad, but good god I’ll never claim the climbing is better. Dude is traveling from Europe, and absolutely needs to check out prime rock in renowned locations more than local boulder piles. On a trip I took to Austria, Switzerland, France, and Germany, I did more looking at rocks than sending, and I’m glad I did. Sitting under Action Directe was a much more memorable experience than any of the bouldering in Fontainebleau.

OP- check out the rocks you are passionate about seeing, the ones you think about back home. Better to stand in the meadow under el cap than to kick pebbles at rock town.