Climbing grades indoor vs outdoor

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Theoretically, every indoor route should be exactly the correct consensus grade as the moves and holds can be manipulated into nearly any position/combination. 

idk, people are still tall and short and differently proportioned 

Y'all need some God in this thread?

GOD MADE THE OUTDOORS SO.

Routesetters are merely playing GOD.

The rapture is upon us.

I agree with Connor, indoor 5.13 usually feels harder because you need to cram say 120 feet of climbing into 30-40 feet, and the routes end up not having rest like the outdoors. At least here in the US where we don't have euro-style mega gyms. Boulders are usually softer because most setters seem to come from bouldering backgrounds. I don't think most of them know what a 13 should feel like for comparison. John Clark, my second mortal nemesis beyond Bruno Schull(relationship healed), is correct.

Eric Marx wrote:

Y'all need some God in this thread?

GOD MADE THE OUTDOORS SO.

Routesetters are merely playing GOD.

The rapture is upon us.

I agree with Connor, indoor 5.13 usually feels harder because you need to cram say 120 feet of climbing into 30-40 feet, and the routes end up not having rest like the outdoors. At least here in the US where we don't have euro-style mega gyms. Boulders are usually softer because most setters seem to come from bouldering backgrounds. I don't think most of them know what a 13 should feel like for comparison. John Clark, my second mortal nemesis beyond Bruno Schull(relationship healed), is correct.

God may have made the outdoors, but the devil freed us from the garden, where there is no mention of rocks for climbing. Gotta give the devil and Eve their due for giving us rock climbing.

Wait, other John Clark. Or maybe you too? I can't keep track of all my enemies. 

Eric Marx wrote:

Wait, other John Clark. Or maybe you too? I can't keep track of all my enemies. 

You need a foe glass

John Clark wrote:

idk, people are still tall and short and differently proportioned 

Fair enough, but this is assuming routes/problems are assigned only a single grade and not a range. Many gyms have grade ranges assigned. I also said consensus, which means the ogres and shrimps opinions don’t matter. 

Not MP Admin wrote:

Eric, you do realize there are 30-40 ft 5.13’s out there right?

This makes no sense, you could easily argue the problems they set are harder then, as they are more used to bouldering. 

I come from the gunks, our 5.13s are 8 feet of v7-12(lol v12 on 5.13) with 65 feet of 5.5. I know nothing else other than my captivity.

Not only have I made enemies of the MP Admin, but not MP Admin too. There is no one left except Jabroni McChufferson. It is a lonely life.

Eric Marx wrote:

I come from the gunks, our 5.13s are 8 feet of v7-12(lol v12 on 5.13) with 65 feet of 5.5. I know nothing else other than my captivity.

Apparently perfect routes do exist 

Eric Marx wrote:

I come from the gunks, our 5.13s are 8 feet of v7-12(lol v12 on 5.13) with 65 feet of 5.5. I know nothing else other than my captivity.

We know.

Eric Marx wrote:

Y'all need some God in this thread?

GOD MADE THE OUTDOORS SO.

Routesetters are merely playing GOD.

The rapture is upon us.

I agree with Connor, indoor 5.13 usually feels harder because you need to cram say 120 feet of climbing into 30-40 feet, and the routes end up not having rest like the outdoors. 

I posted a similar sentiment earlier in this thread.

However, since I posted that a couple weeks ago, I’ve eaten 26lbs of ground beef. I’m finding all climbing to be pretty easy lately. I’m thinking of only using Crocs from now on, just to keep from getting bored.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

I posted a similar sentiment earlier in this thread.

However, since I posted that a couple weeks ago, I’ve eaten 26lbs of ground beef. I’m finding all climbing to be pretty easy lately. I’m thinking of only using Crocs from now on, just to keep from getting bored.

Crocs are aid. Sport mode crocs = compressor route levels of aid

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

I’ve eaten 26lbs of ground beef. I’m finding all climbing to be pretty easy lately. I’m thinking of only using Crocs from now on, just to keep from getting bored.

Dude, stop eating all my beef. No wonder you're having flatulent expulsions.

What's kind of hilarious about this troll is that if you had eaten about a pound of beef a day for the last 3 weeks, or 21 pounds, you would actually feel insanely strong lol All good jokes have a shred of truth to them.

Eric Marx wrote:

Dude, stop eating all my beef. No wonder you're having flatulent expulsions.

What's kind of hilarious about this troll is that if you had eaten about a pound of beef a day for the last 3 weeks, or 21 pounds, you would actually feel insanely strong lol All good jokes have shred of truth to them.

In all seriousness I eat about 700g of beef per day, sometimes venison. When I slow my roll and try to lose weight, I am noticeably less strong on boulders. Optimization of diet is very hard, plus I am not 100% disciplined on my dietary choices. That said, for gym climbing the high calorie high protein diet kicks ass, however it doesn’t translate as well to the real rock, which is why I transfer to a higher carb lower calorie diet for send season. Being light on more techy things where you don’t just have to pinch everything is kinda good for sending hard whereas every gym hold is just some flavor of pinch, so just being strong enough is ideal. 

Nick Budka wrote:

In all seriousness I eat about 700g of beef per day, sometimes venison. When I slow my roll and try to lose weight, I am noticeably less strong on boulders. Optimization of diet is very hard, plus I am not 100% disciplined on my dietary choices. That said, for gym climbing the high calorie high protein diet kicks ass, however it doesn’t translate as well to the real rock, which is why I transfer to a higher carb lower calorie diet for send season. Being light on more techy things where you don’t just have to pinch everything is kinda good for sending hard whereas every gym hold is just some flavor of pinch, so just being strong enough is ideal. 

Awesome man, sick to hear. Not to hijack another thread, but I don't have that experience. I find cutting a small amount of weight during peak season(for me only 3-4 pounds) but keeping my protein intake high is very beneficial for the nail biters in the gunks while still fueling a proper recovery. I generally eat about 2,100 calories a day though, never really doing "bulking amounts" of calories unless I'm recovering from or preparing for some sort of trip out west.

Back on topic 5.13 gym is sandbagged as shit fight me

Someone upthread mentioned projecting.

My hardest route ever, I cleaned, bolted, then tried it at least 3 times a week for a few months before I got it.

It was hard enough that I couldn’t even climb it bolt to bolt and it had 17 of them! It was a major process that involved cutting weight, cutting alcohol, and a big trip to the Red just to train more endurance.

I never went through a process anywhere close to that at the gym. It’s a rare gym session that I try a route more than once, or a boulder more than 3 times. If I can’t do it, I generally pick something a bit easier to get the pump going without a bunch of hanging.

Eric Marx wrote:

Dude, stop eating all my beef. No wonder you're having flatulent expulsions.

What's kind of hilarious about this troll is that if you had eaten about a pound of beef a day for the last 3 weeks, or 21 pounds, you would actually feel insanely strong lol All good jokes have a shred of truth to them.

Great troll or absolutely horrible take? Can never tell with this one. 

Keep climbing outside and eventually the gym seems way harder and almost unbearable. lol. After only (just shy of) 2 years of climbing outside it’s so hard to go back into an environment where only certain holds are allowed, with those holds set by people much shorter or with different strengths and “styles” than me. Rock has allowed me so much more creativity. Sometimes I’m able to surprise myself by climbing easily at my “limit grade,” and sometimes I struggle on things that are very low grade. It’s honestly like learning two very different languages. And I much prefer real rock (even though the first few times outside were a brutally rude awakening).

Shea Ingalls wrote:

What would be the best way for me to improve my footwork? I can't get a coach because of my schedule.

CLIMB IN GRANITE. You'll learn to climb properly. ;)

I gave up gym climbing 3 or 4 years ago. Too busy, too expensive, didn't increase my outdoor ability much.

That said, it's a vastly more fun/enjoyable way to exercise compared to most other forms of exercise like weight lifting, etc.

If you like indoor climbing, definitely do it and have fun. Just don't expect it to increase your outdoor ability by more than a few percentage points, at best.

"Follow your stoke"... as they say

Nick G wrote:

I gave up gym climbing 3 or 4 years ago. Too busy, too expensive, didn't increase my outdoor ability much.

That said, it's a vastly more fun/enjoyable way to exercise compared to most other forms of exercise like weight lifting, etc.

If you like indoor climbing, definitely do it and have fun. Just don't expect it to increase your outdoor ability by more than a few percentage points, at best.

"Follow your stoke"... as they say

Yet world cup kids go out and send 5.14 in their first month climbing outside.

 You can gain a lot of strength and learn balance and inherent movement patterns on plastic. It doesn't translate 100% but there is pretty significant overlap.

I think most people probably don't boulder enough indoors though.