Bioavailable Proteins - Post a day

Jonathan Walker wrote:

I think it’s been clear by most of us, from the beginning of this thread, that your ego is far more important to you than your nutrition.

Keep climbing 5.12+, man.

I thought he was very clear on saying he is a highly trained, and a very experienced practitioner of this topic. Yes, he has an ego. Buy most people who are on top of the game usually have an ego... but who knows, maybe he's just a tub of lard projecting on the internet...

cubist A wrote:

Most of the plant based people I know cite ethics as their main reason for their dietary choices. Nothing in this thread has addressed - much less challenged - that part of the equation. 

Environmental and ethical reasons are my primary motivations for eating a largely plant-based diet. I’ve been surprised that these issues have been largely absent from this thread so far too, especially given what I thought I knew about the climbing community. However, I suppose I shouldn’t be too surprised given that some of the protagonists here have essentially disavowed the scientific method and professional institutions.

It’s an incredible privilege to have so many options to optimise one’s diet, but like many other aspects of life, we also bear responsibility for our choices. We should consider the impact these choices have on other people, and also the world beyond the human.

Wonder how long it’ll take Eric to woke shame me for the preceding paragraph?

I feel like I have learned a lot about how the internet works by following this thread.  

Hot take: Alex Sebastian pulled this troll better than “Eric Marx.” I mean, obviously this new character is slightly more believable and seems to have roped in more folks. But the fish heads were way funnier and more to the point.

I shoot most of my years worth of protein with a 30-06.

The farts are getting better iv never experienced such flatulence before but I have been sick with a virus so hard to say. 

Vegans forget plants have feelings too. That and all the animals killed protecting plants. 

gtluke wrote:

no vegan has ever finished the tour de France race. Not won or podiumed, never mind that. Never even finished the race. Hard to argue that the TDF isn't the pinnacle of physiology research. 

Adam Hansen. Finished the Tour de France seven times, with over 20 finishes in all three Grand Tours. 

I'm going to climb the diamond on sunday. What should I eat the night before, and the day of the climb? Cast your votes!

A. All vegan diet

B. Steak only

C. other (write your suggestion)

I will provide photographic evidence.

Yukon Cornelius wrote:

I'm going to climb the diamond on sunday. What should I eat the night before, and the day of the climb? Cast your votes!

A. All vegan diet

B. Steak only

C. other (write your suggestion)

I will provide photographic evidence.

C. The Effrain only... the proper green chili too no half n half

Hmm, I had to google it. I'm assuming you mean "Efrain's Famous Chili Verde Bowl" from Efrain's, near mcguckin? I've never been. Sounds kind of hard to eat on route but hey, if that's what the people want, I'll figure it out somehow

I bet you could do the entire day on peanut M&M's. I think I did the Tenmile Traverse (as a loop!) on nothing but Twizzlers.

wow, that's inspirational! straight candy diet would probably be closest to my normal diet on a day like this. peanut M&Ms for dinner might be kind of rough though.

Long Ranger wrote:

I bet you could do the entire day on peanut M&M's. I think I did the Tenmile Traverse (as a loop!) on nothing but Twizzlers.

Damn dude, that looks sallow af.

Yukon, you know I’m trying to bring back fish heads. Let’s make it happen.

Long Ranger wrote:

Adam Hansen. Finished the Tour de France seven times, with over 20 finishes in all three Grand Tours. 

A quick google says he went vegan in 2017, his accomplishments were prior to that. 

Long Ranger wrote:

I bet you could do the entire day on peanut M&M's. I think I did the Tenmile Traverse (as a loop!) on nothing but Twizzlers.

I have a friend who's an accomplished vegan endurance athlete. He has attempted the full Iditarod twice on a bicycle but weather and crashing got him.  All his prep and qualifying races were done almost entirely on peanut m&ms

gtluke wrote:

A quick google says he went vegan in 2017, his accomplishments were prior to that. 

I don't know how I became the guy to defend veganism (as I am not), but take Scott Jurek, winner of the Western States 6x in a row, former holder of the Appalachian Trail FKT, which I think I mentioned my first post some 2000 pages back (and this just touches on his accomplishments). But I also mentioned Karl Meltzer who bettered Jurek on the AT eating pizza and beer and smoking a lotta weed listening to the Dead during his run. My argument is still that there are many reasonable diets for health if you take out the crap. Perhaps I will amend this to say that a diet for long term health may be different than a diet for performance (since performing at a high level is rarely healthy) and thus my M&M anecdote. Often in this thread the two are conflated.

If I was to make a third point, it would be that training for climbing is not some incredible load on the body that has no parallel. I probably burn more calories riding my bike 20 minutes to/from the gym for example to do a few routes than I do the routes. I can watch all day the best climbers take 30 minutes between a burn at a hard boulder problem. Does one honestly think the bioavablity profile of their protein is the lynchpin to their performance?

Long Ranger wrote:

I probably burn more calories riding my bike 20 minutes to/from the gym for example to do a few routes than I do the routes. 

I confirmed this yesterday with my optical heart rate monitor.

40 minutes on the bike trainer: 536 kcal

40 minutes on the Moonboard: 248 kcal

Interestingly enough, max HR was within 2bpm of each other for each training session.

I consumed a highly bioavailable amino acid known as pBr the night before each training session. It is a highly regulated performance decreasing drug (you have to be 21 to purchase it and it has well-documented adverse side effects such as weight gain, slurred speech and frequent posting to MP).

Long Ranger wrote:

I don't know how I became the guy to defend veganism (as I am not), 

I think my mistake in responding to gtluke's and other pokes at plant based athletics is that I forgot that no one seriously considering going plant based whether for health, ethics, carbon footprint or whatever reason is going to read gtluke's post and be like "Shoot.  Forget the reasons I was considering it, if I'll never be able to win a stage in the TdF that's a deal breaker. Gimme a steak so I can keep that option open."

---

Yesterday I barely cleared 75g in protein.  Wasn't feeling fish for lunch and didn't have any left overs after a busy work week. And we ended the day at my in laws for dinner and game night which didn't include any significant sources of protein but was chock full of fresh veggies, legumes and grains in a homemade green curry- still solid nutrition to end the day.  I did drink a few glasses of wine though. And got my butt kicked in Catan- had largest army stolen when I was not anticipating it...  Didn't stress much about one day of lower protein intake though.  Just noted it and started off today with a blended shake with apples and plums I picked 20 minutes earlier as the sun was coming up over the trees and added extra scoop of Vega protein.  I try not to stress about any one day's intake or lack of.  I'm try to stay focused on long term consistent whole food intake and making a point to put something in the cart I haven't had recently every time I'm in the produce section. No climbing for me this weekend- getting up into the alpine tomorrow for some scrambling and to bivy above the treeline and enjoy a sunset on one of the last long weekend days of the year here in the Cascades.

P.S. where's this homie getting vegan peanut M&Ms? Do tell.

ETA- This page has a good overview of bioavailability of nutrition in humans. It discusses the significant difficulties that exist in establishing simplistic bioavailability thumbrules. The authors of various cited books talk about how some things like iron and other minerals can relatively easily be studied based on blood work, though they state clearly that even the "easy" ones still have a high degree of uncertainty given the quanitiy of factors at play. And complex molecules like amino acids are extremely difficult to establish in vivo, human based estimates of bioavailability. More recent studies involving hydroponically grown and radioactively tagged food are flushing out some of these complex questions but it seems more science is needed to expand the understanding of bioavailability in food.

From 2016- "However, it should be noted that bioavailability is not a constant value and needs to be considered with caution in the context of multiple factors, both intrinsic and extrinsic, which can affect the bioavailability from food- and nonfood sources of nutrients."

"In vitro testing has progressed substantially and is often preferred by scientists for efficient use of resources. However, the complexity of living organisms remains incompletely understood, and frequently, the nutritional value of foods or diets is more accurately evaluated by direct in vivo testing."

Most of you haven’t been around long enough to remember when I theorized the all pressurized food climbing trip.

It was pringles, canned cheese, beer, and carbonated beverages.

Someone back then mentioned that there was some sort of fermented food, like maybe in a tightly bound animal stomach or something like that, if I could remember what that was I think it would count too.

A stovetop espresso maker might allow you to drink coffee instead of red bull in the morning, but I would need to consult with the judges for that.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

Most of you haven’t been around long enough to remember when I theorized the all pressurized food climbing trip.

It was pringles, canned cheese, beer, and carbonated beverages.

Someone back then mentioned that there was some sort of fermented food, like maybe in a tightly bound animal stomach or something like that, if I could remember what that was I think it would count too.

A stovetop espresso maker might allow you to drink coffee instead of red bull in the morning, but I would need to consult with the judges for that.

How many Tour de France winners have used your patented pressurized diet, tho?