"Here to Climb" -- Sasha DiGiulian Doc on HBO

Regarding "some pro climbers are assholes", I've met probably more than 100 "pro" climbers over the years... from Ron Kauk and John Bachar, Lynn Hill, Jerry Moffat back in Yosemite in the 90s all the way up to the modern crushers like Colin Duffy and Brooke Raboutou (who both climb at my gym now and then).  Some seem a little more aloof and some are more warm and friendly, but none has ever acted like an entitled jerk.

As I mentioned in the OP, I've talked to Sasha before (along with her husband, a super nice guy), and they're just regular nice people.  At the end of the day, everyone is just a human with the normal foibles and insecurities that plague us all.  

Or, alternatively, everyone is an asshole and I'm too aspergery to clue in.

Todd Berlier wrote:

lmfao. no, I'm the obtuse one. 

yes, I was trolling all the bouldering isn't real climbing folks.

Of course it isn't real climbing why do you think they call it bouldering instead of climbing?

John RBwrote:As I mentioned in the OP, I've talked to Sasha before (along with her husband, a super nice guy), and they're just regular nice people.  At the end of the day, everyone is just a human with the normal foibles and insecurities that plague us all.  

Or, alternatively, everyone is an asshole and I'm too aspergery to clue in.

Ten different people will have ten different experiences. I got a chuckle a while back when I saw her walking back from EC, to the meadow, with a photog/writer in tow… one who has a knack for sending unsolicited Richard pics to climber gals who he cons into giving him their number. Considering this is not a one-time event for this guy, makes me curious if SDG truly has no idea the guy isn’t the best character… or if rumblings of that nature are ignored because he can put her name/photo in print? Considering today’s day and age, seems like a reasonable question 

I saw Sasha at my gym many times and she never "cleared out" any sections. She did laps like any normal elite climber and was very nice. 

Teddy Pwrote:

I saw Sasha at my gym many times and she never "cleared out" any sections. She did laps like any normal elite climber and was very nice. 

Lol is that what you think “elite climbers” do?

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

Lol is that what you think “elite climbers” do?

Teddy was responding to the post on page 1 by EMFR I:

EMFR I                ·        Jun 21, 2024        ·                    Las Vegastan                            · Joined Apr 2020            · Points: 0            

I stopped paying any attention to her when she came to a big gym and had the staff clear out the entire lead cave for a few hours so she could train without "being bothered." 

Marc801 Cwrote:

Teddy was responding to the post on page 1 by EMFR I:

Yes, and I was responding to Teddy inferring that “elite climbers” just do laps upon laps…

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

Lol is that what you think “elite climbers” do?

Literally (yes, "literally" literally) every 'nationals podium' level climber I've ever seen on a rope at Movement Boulder has been doing laps in the lead cave on 12-13s. Climb, pull rope, repeat (several 'reps'), then rest between 'sets'.

MattHwrote:

Literally (yes, "literally" literally) every 'nationals podium' level climber I've ever seen on a rope at Movement Boulder has been doing laps in the lead cave on 12-13s. Climb, pull rope, repeat (several 'reps'), then rest between 'sets'.

And what about the elite climbers?   

I stood on a podium a few times and I'm not an elite climber!

M Mwrote:

I stood on a podium a few times and I'm not an elite climber!

“Elite” is ambiguous these days. But I agree, joking aside, that except for a few of those making podium at the major IFSC events, most of these climbers aren’t climbing 5.15b/V16 and up (which is what I would consider elite these days). Obviously, many will disagree and argue that climbers climbing lesser grades could be considered “elite”, but I still don’t see those 5.15b and V16 climbers running laps on the local plastic 5.13. They are outside climbing real rock or on a spray/systems wall. 

Based on the way others here at MP have applied the term 'elite', that term could easily be applied to me...and I've always considered myself supremely average (at best). Go figure.

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

Lol is that what you think “elite climbers” do?

thanks for elevating the conversation

Teddy Pwrote:

thanks for elevating the conversation

No problemo amigo, I look forward to your next riveting contribution as well!   

apogeewrote:

Based on the way others here at MP have applied the term 'elite', that term could easily be applied to me...and I've always considered myself supremely average (at best). Go figure.

That’s because people on MP are idiots. Myself included. 

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

“Elite” is ambiguous these days. But I agree, joking aside, that except for a few of those making podium at the major IFSC events, most of these climbers aren’t climbing 5.15b/V16 and up (which is what I would consider elite these days). Obviously, many will disagree and argue that climbers climbing lesser grades could be considered “elite”, but I still don’t see those 5.15b and V16 climbers running laps on the local plastic 5.13. They are outside climbing real rock or on a spray/systems wall. 

This is right but also just fails to take into account the complexities of life! Sasha went to college next to my local gym, and that gym didn't have a spray wall. So doing laps on the 30 degree wall in the bouldering cave seems like a reasonable way to train for volume. Whether or not she is elite is not really my point, but I take yours and that it could go either way.

I'm an elitist climber too. If you can't climb 5.7 in my gym, why are you even talking to me?

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

That’s because people on MP are idiots. Myself included. 

Don't sell yourself out like that 

Teddy Pwrote:

This is right but also just fails to take into account the complexities of life! Sasha went to college next to my local gym, and that gym didn't have a spray wall. So doing laps on the 30 degree wall in the bouldering cave seems like a reasonable way to train for volume. Whether or not she is elite is not really my point, but I take yours and that it could go either way.

My post hinges around what is considered “elite“ and what isn’t. Your post apparently does not, which is totally fine, but also not worth further engaging if that’s the point you’re trying to make. Regardless, I stand by my point that top end climbers in each discipline (let’s say 5.15 and V15) do not train by just doing laps on 5.12’s (or V-grade equivalents). 

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

My post hinges around what is considered “elite“ and what isn’t. Your post apparently does not, which is totally fine, but also not worth further engaging if that’s the point you’re trying to make. Regardless, I stand by my point that top end climbers in each discipline (let’s say 5.15 and V15) do not train by just doing laps on 5.12’s (or V-grade equivalents). 

I think that you misinterpreted the post that you were originally responding to. That poster never said that 'elite' climbers "train by JUST doing laps...", just mentioned that such training was common for elite climbers. How certain are you that those "5.15 and V15" you refer to don't do any 'lap training' during periods when they can't get on rock?