Most Sandbagged Climbing Areas in America

Finn Lanverswrote:

Little cottonwood 5.9

Speaks for itself

Buddy of mine said this was his math professor at Univ. of Utah or Westminster? when I showed him this cover 18 years ago. Remains one of my favorite climbing photos

Whichever “local” area hasn’t been mentioned yet!

Stagg54 Taggartwrote:

hard to tell the angle there, but dang that looks hard. Does it at least get a plus?

This route is "The Green Adjective". Yes, it is rather low angled. 

That purple route at the gym.  Not sure how the climbing team kids do it.  Must have short beta.

Fern Gullywrote:

Don’t know about elsewhere in the country/world, but in Colorado both Eldo and S Platte climbing feel pretty tough for their grading compared to surrounding areas in the front range. S platte is the first place I ever took a leader fall on 5.7 after years of being a “5.10” leader. The difference is shockingly noticeable when comparing to front range sport crags in particular. Might as well call out Veadauvoo since it feels like it belongs in this sandbaggy category amongst other crags in the front range area (but I am an off-width weenie). 

I think it’s a bit of a “styles make match ups” for most people as both of those places require faith in your feet beyond most other locations - though some of the old crack lines in the platte are without a doubt the hardest I’ve done. The good news is I’ve never gone anywhere and been sandbagged so far including places mentioned for sandbagging often like Unaweep, Vedauwoo, Yosemite, Cochise, and more.

People say the Adirondacks is sandbagged. It feels like the standard of traditional grading to me probably because I learned to climb there. I will say that Poko Moonshine mountain has always felt really challenging. Every time I’m walking up to that cliff my stomach is in a knot. I’d be interested to hear what others think. 

Santiago Monleonwrote:

This route is "The Green Adjective". Yes, it is rather low angled. 

Still a very impressive photo.

Bob Cipperlywrote:

People say the Adirondacks is sandbagged. It feels like the standard of traditional grading to me probably because I learned to climb there. I will say that Poko Moonshine mountain has always felt really challenging. Every time I’m walking up to that cliff my stomach is in a knot. I’d be interested to hear what others think. 

I would agree with this and second the pit in your stomach feeling. 

I have a funny sandbagging/old school grades story.
A number of years ago I returned to an obscure crag that I hadn't climbed at for over a decade. I did have a route sketch that I'd gotten from somewhere ( I think on line) as a guidebook. We got on a number of routes that were listed on the sketch with what we believed to be 'appropriate' grades for us, but struggled and flailed mightily on them---frequently 'cursing' the sandbaggers who had graded them. Later, sometime after I got home, I dug through my old journals and discovered that those 'damn sandbaggers' were us!!!!!

Alan Rubinwrote:

I have a funny sandbagging/old school grades story.
A number of years ago I returned to an obscure crag that I hadn't climbed at for over a decade. I did have a route sketch that I'd gotten from somewhere ( I think on line) as a guidebook. We got on a number of routes that were listed on the sketch with what we believed to be 'appropriate' grades for us, but struggled and flailed mightily on them---frequently 'cursing' the sandbaggers who had graded them. Later, sometime after I got home, I dug through my old journals and discovered that those 'damn sandbaggers' were us!!!!!

I have to agree with Al on this. It seems that the routes that we put up 20 years ago are all pretty sandbagged.

Last year I was at a Rumney and ran into a fairly well-known Northeast Climber, who used to put up some really scary run out friction climbs. And he told me I was a sandbagger. I guess we were all Hard men  in our youth.

Anywhere harder than your local area is sandbagged. Anywhere easier is soft. Make sure to say this loudly when you climb outside your area: the locals will want to know that their 5.10d would totally be a 5.8 where you come from, and that there’s no way their 5.6 could be 5.6 because it would be at least 11c in your gym. Better still, complain about this on Mountain Project. 

Horse Pens 40 has some pretty heavily sandbagged boulders.

Jim Uwrote:

Debbie and Banana up to gunsight notch probably were 5.6 and 5.7 once a upon a time....but now that half the hold have been broken off....

Banana used to be 5.6. So it's been upgraded as things have fallen off  

For me it's devils lake for rope climbing.  Socorro has some of the most sandbagged boulders ive pulled on to

June. You are a sandbagger ;)   Daks, Seneca. Banana is a joke at 5.6. Gunk's. Most old areas are rouger on the lower grades. Custer State Park seems pretty reasonable to me if you stick to the routes that have gear.. 

june mwrote:

I have to agree with Al on this. It seems that the routes that we put up 20 years ago are all pretty sandbagged.

I think this points to Grade Inflation.

Fern Gullywrote:

Don’t know about elsewhere in the country/world, but in Colorado both Eldo and S Platte climbing feel pretty tough for their grading compared to surrounding areas in the front range. S platte is the first place I ever took a leader fall on 5.7 after years of being a “5.10” leader. The difference is shockingly noticeable when comparing to front range sport crags in particular. Might as well call out Veadauvoo since it feels like it belongs in this sandbaggy category amongst other crags in the front range area (but I am an off-width weenie). 

I know others will disagree but I think 5.9-10 is pretty consistent between front range areas (CCC, Eldo, and S.Platte in particular).

More broadly, I've found that there are two kinds of well-regarded climbs: 'classic' routes and 'popular' routes. A popular route is generally above 5.10, FA'ed some time this millennium, and soft for the grade. A 'classic' is generally below 5.10 (or established at least 20 years ago) and is stiff for the grade. Climb 'classics' on vacation and you'll leave thinking the area's sandbagged. Climb popular routes and you'll think the area's soft.

Great Falls/Carderock get my vote. Ridiculously stout.

Steve. i suspect it has more to do with us getting old than grade inflation.  we are the ones  wo did the FA and graded it 20+ years ago and now we  get on the climb and are like who the hell called this a 5.8.... 

lol. True. But I also remember that 5.8 was hard and very tiring, because it was an offwidth or chimney a lot of the time. 

Or it was terrifying because it was a slab put up on lead with a quite long way between bolts.

I've been surprised to see in MP how routes I did in the 90's have two numbers added to them now. My point about grade inflation is that it used to be OK to be intimidated by 5.10, yet after over-bolted overhanging jug hauls graded 5.10 were everywhere to be found, it's like nobody could stomach the idea that a 5.8 offwidth would be beyond their capability. "It must be harder than this!"

What if Adam Ondra could only climb 5.12? And almost everyone on MP now would be lucky to get a 5.10 done this year (like 30 years ago)?

I’ll echo that the Needles (of the Sierra) and the moonboard have been the most savage ego bashers I’ve climbed for the grade.

Tahquitz/suicide feel stout by todays standards but can’t be sandbagged by definition because that’s where the YDS was created ;)