World’s Hardest 5.8? I need your input!

Alan Rubin wrote:

Minnebelle is the only one of Wiessner's routes in the Gunks that was rated 5.8 once the decimal system was established in the Gunks in Gran's guidebook--so has been consistently recognized as his hardest ( in terms of grade) route there. Too bad that the current rules at Skytop greatly limit the number of folks who will be able to climb it.

I have never done the route on Noonmark. Have you done Vector at Ragged Mountain?  If so, how do the 2 routes compare in difficulty?

In the early 1930's when Fritz started climbing here after he emigrated from Germany, the small cadre of local NY climbers brought him to their crags in the Hudson Highlands about an hour north of NYC. Starting on his first day with them, at a cliff called Arden, he climbed a route that amazed the locals as it was significantly harder than anything they had climbed. Over the next few years he established a series of at least 4 other routes on 3 additional cliffs, all in the same league of difficulty. Then, from one of those cliffs, Breakneck Ridge, he spied a line of cliffs further north--Gunks climbing was 'born', and the 'scene' shifted there. This was decades before there was any modern grading system in this region--so those Highland routes were described  only as being very difficult.

The cliffs in the Highlands were closed to public access during World War 2 and then subsequently transferred to the Palisades Interstate Park, which has maintained the climbing ban. To my knowledge, no contemporary climber has repeated those routes since decimal grades were established, so we don't know how hard by modern standards any of these routes actually are---but I have a strong belief that at least some of them are no less than 5.8 and quite possibly more difficult.

Im assuming the Arden cliff is the obvious one you see from 87 when passing Arden. I've always wondered about the climbing on it.

Matt Wetmore wrote:

Im assuming the Arden cliff is the obvious one you see from 87 when passing Arden. I've always wondered about the climbing on it.

Yes, that's it. Unfortunately, still off limits and very visible from well-traveled and well-patrolled roads. I, too, stare wishfully as I drive past. The other crags are Storm King, Crow's Nest and Breakneck Ridge facing each other across the Hudson and also very illegal and visible.

After reading all these comments many times over, it seems like 3 climbs of sandbaggery stand out among the rest.

1. The Umph Slot 5.8+, Boulder Canyon, CO-With the modern rating in the 5.10+ to 5.11 range, this seems to be the largest gap between the original rating and the actual rating aka the most sandbagged from a quantitative standpoint.

2. Modern Times 5.8, The Gunks, NY -Definitely seems to be the people’s choice as it consistently has the most upvotes. This one may win on votes alone.

3. Titties and Beer (aka “Worlds Hardest 5.8”) 5.10a, Looking Glass, NC- While slightly less sandbagged than Umph Slot, it’s literally in the name!

Thoughts? Honorable mentions? Break into small groups and discuss.

Matt Wetmore wrote:

This chimney was the first 5.8 I fell on in like 5 years, and I have climbed a lot of 5.8s and chimneys. Definitely harder than any of the gunks 8s mentioned.

As a fellow east coast climber who’s been in Washington for 6 months, I saw this first hand. First time I went to index, we took Taurus to Aries. Got shut down on the second pitch. I climbed a lot of places and that pitch alone is up there in sandbagged climbs……

Not here to dispute the consensus for the top choices, but I am a bit surprised not to see the South Face Route on North Dome in Yosemite get an honorable mention. I thought that the pitch 3 traverse, combined with the runout slap sections and the power/polished lie-backing on the upper pitches made this route an altogether fairly serious outing and surely one that would traumatize the budding 5.8 climber for the rest of their life. 

BFK wrote:

Not here to dispute the consensus for the top choices, but I am a bit surprised not to see the South Face Route on North Dome in Yosemite get an honorable mention. I thought that the pitch 3 traverse, combined with the runout slap sections and the power/polished lie-backing on the upper pitches made this route an altogether fairly serious outing and surely one that would traumatize the budding 5.8 climber for the rest of their life. 

I agree that the South Face Route on North Dome is a great climb. The pitch 3 traverse is especially challenging, as you have to commit to a delicate undercling move with little pro and a potential slab fall. It is best suited for experienced climbers who are comfortable with Yosemite granite and long routes.

Nick Haha wrote:

As a fellow east coast climber who’s been in Washington for 6 months, I saw this first hand. First time I went to index, we took Taurus to Aries. Got shut down on the second pitch. I climbed a lot of places and that pitch alone is up there in sandbagged climbs……

Someone commented earlier that this pitch is pretty style-dependent and would be a standard 5.8 in Josh or Vedauwoo. Style is a thing for sure. Still want to check out this pitch though!

Moby grape, Cannon NH is proper. mountainproject.com/route/1…