Longest wall/route in each state?
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A recent discussion on a route claiming to be the 'longest bolted route in CO' got me wondering: what's the longest route in each state? There's been a 'hardest route in each state', as well as a 'hardest trad route in each state' list, so it's about time for a 'longest' list. Counting only 5th class terrain and ignoring traversing, so no girdle traverses, ridge traverses, or 4th class scrambles with a few 5.4 moves.Maybe it'd be easier to distinguish: which route in each state has the largest vertical drop along 5th class terrain? Edit: some actual answers: CA: Tehipite Dome (eg: Tehipite Sanction) CO: S. Chasm View (eg: AstroDog) NM: Brazos Cliff (closed) or Minerva's Temple/The Shield/Sugarloaf (open) Maine: Katahdin NH: Cannon Big Wall (eg: VMC Double Direct) UT: The Big Lebowski (Zion W. Temple) |
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What about Florida? |
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California might be interesting, in that it's probably not El Cap. Tephite Dome? |
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Tehipite is yuuuuuge. Hard to beat I'd imagine in CA. |
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The Painted Wall is the tallest wall in Colorado at 2200 feet and it has several routes |
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Quick search of AZ reveals it is apparently and appropriately in the Grand Canyon: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106757900/southwest-ridge-comanche-point |
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A couple more that came to me: NV: Which route on Mt. Wilson takes the cake? Resolution Arete? NY: Wallface? Or Mt. Colden? IL: Something on Fountain Bluff near the Beach bouldering area? Not sure what the longest route with legal access is - something at Cedar Bluff? CT: Something on West Rock? |
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MattHwrote: MP lists The Diagonal (Wallface) as 860 feet, and that presumably includes the diagonal nature of it. And lists Free Ride as 735 feet. But California Flake on Colden is listed as 870 feet. This seems to imply Colden. But that turns to low 5th slabbing at the top of P4. Might depend on what we consider 5th class enough. My vote is Wallface for sustained verticality. NC: Laurel Knob |
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Mr Rogerswrote: Is Tephite the winner for lower 48? Probably so for sustained clean 5th class rock. Washington: There's some huge faces, but at lot of the tallest are big scrappy alpine faces like Mt Johannesburg without sustained 5th class. For sustained vertical relief ... Maybe Mt. Index? There's a 2000 foot sport climb there now with sustained steep hard climbing. Probably not the tallest but it's gotta be the raddest. Squire Creek Wall is huge but quite slabby, so the route length and vertical height aren't quite the same thing. Infinite Bliss is listed as 2600 here, so that's another contender for tallest/longest. Also has slab factor though. Maybe something else alpine? North Ridge of Mt Stuart is huge, but again there's now a question of how strict we are about sustained 5th class. |
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Pretty sure galactic hitchhiker on glacier point apron is in the running for California. |
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Nate Awrote: Excluding alpine routes yes |
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Nate Awrote: yup, fits the category as longest. |
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Galactic Hitchhiker says 4,000 feet of climbing on this site. From the base of the cliff to the railing at Glacier point ft is 3,000ft of gain. Tehipite Dome shows about 3,300 feet of gain from base to summit - which is more in line with route lengths of full height routes. Galactic Hitchhiker seems longer because of slabiness and traversing pitches I guess, but 1,000ft more? Does that count? If we are measuring a route by bottom to top distance instead of elevation gain, I think it’s just as fair to include an El Cap girdle traverse on overall steeper terrain, along with slab routes which add to their length by including horizontally traveled distance.
This thread makes me curious about most difficult summits to reach by state. Castle rock spire? What would Florida be haha? |
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Tehipite in CA has the most vertical, but including overall distance My Favorite Things on Cloud's Rest is likely a contender. |
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MattHwrote: New Mexico: Also in the no access category, but I think the Brazos Cliffs have Shiprock beat by quite a bit. Oklahoma: Among public access, it would have to be either "S-Wall" at Quartz Mountain or "League of Doom" linked into "Space Balls" on Lichen Wall in the WMWR. (edit: I completely forgot about the Elk Slabs, which is longer than both.) Arkansas: Would have to be something on the Buffalo. |
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Chase Webbwrote: Learned something new! Never even heard of that area before. Also wow, how did I miss Cannon in the NH list. Too much time in N Conway I guess... |
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Not to brag or anything but at Harper's ferry Maryland we have routes up to 200 ft |
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As for Oregon, I believe it is the Peregrine Traverse out at Acker Rock, 1500ft of climbing! Close second would be Barad-Dûr or the Morgul Vale at Wolf Rock. |
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West Virginia: Almost Alpine 7000+ ft |
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Does the Full Palisades Traverse qualify ? It is usually described as the longest route in the lower 48. |
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For New Hampshire, while Whitehorse routes are long, both the lower and upper sections are too low angle to meet OP’s criteria. While I believe that the ‘big wall’ section on Cannon is the ‘winner’ for New Hampshire, another possible ‘contender’ is Mt. Willard. While slabby, Willard is overall steeper than Whitehorse and has some quite long routes. In Massachusetts, the newly ‘opened’ Hanging Mountain in the southwest corner of the state has the longest ‘vertical’ routes in the state. For Connecticut, I recall many years ago doing a 2 or 3 pitch route on an obscure schist cliff in Waterbury in the central part of the state. The cliff is located behind a shooting range ( added a bit if ‘spice’ to our climb), so off-limits. While our climb zig-zagged a bit, it is one and, as far as I know the longest, of only a handful of ‘vertical’ routes in the state longer than a single pitch. |




