Mountain Project Logo

Longest wall/route in each state?

Original Post
MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,396

A recent discussion on a route claiming to be the 'longest bolted route in CO' got me wondering: what's the longest route in each state? There's been a 'hardest route in each state', as well as a 'hardest trad route in each state' list, so it's about time for a 'longest' list. 

Counting only 5th class terrain and ignoring traversing, so no girdle traverses, ridge traverses, or 4th class scrambles with a few 5.4 moves.Maybe it'd be easier to distinguish: which route in each state has the largest vertical drop along 5th class terrain? 

Edit: some actual answers:

CA: Tehipite Dome (eg: Tehipite Sanction)

CO: S. Chasm View (eg: AstroDog)

NM: Brazos Cliff (closed) or Minerva's Temple/The Shield/Sugarloaf (open)

Maine: Katahdin

NH: Cannon Big Wall (eg: VMC Double Direct)

UT: The Big Lebowski (Zion W. Temple)

Calum TM · · Squamish · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 76

What about Florida?

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

California might be interesting, in that it's probably not El Cap. Tephite Dome?

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77

Tehipite is yuuuuuge. Hard to beat I'd imagine in CA.
The route Wall of the ages is like 3400' so is in the niche of time

Aaron K · · Western Slope CO · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 397

The Painted Wall is the tallest wall in Colorado at 2200 feet and it has several routes

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,205

Quick search of AZ reveals it is apparently and appropriately in the Grand Canyon:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106757900/southwest-ridge-comanche-point

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,396

A couple more that came to me:

NV: Which route on Mt. Wilson takes the cake? Resolution Arete?

NY: Wallface? Or Mt. Colden?

IL: Something on Fountain Bluff near the Beach bouldering area? Not sure what the longest route with legal access is - something at Cedar Bluff?

CT: Something on West Rock?

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
MattHwrote:

NY: Wallface? Or Mt. Colden?

MP lists The Diagonal (Wallface) as 860 feet, and that presumably includes the diagonal nature of it. And lists Free Ride as 735 feet. But California Flake on Colden is listed as 870 feet. This seems to imply Colden. But that turns to low 5th slabbing at the top of P4. Might depend on what we consider 5th class enough. My vote is Wallface for sustained verticality.

NC: Laurel Knob

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Mr Rogerswrote:

Tehipite is yuuuuuge. Hard to beat I'd imagine in CA.
The route Wall of the ages is like 3400' so is in the niche of time

Is Tephite the winner for lower 48? Probably so for sustained clean 5th class rock.

Washington: There's some huge faces, but at lot of the tallest are big scrappy alpine faces like Mt Johannesburg without sustained 5th class. For sustained vertical relief ... Maybe Mt. Index? There's a 2000 foot sport climb there now with sustained steep hard climbing. Probably not the tallest but it's gotta be the raddest.

Squire Creek Wall is huge but quite slabby, so the route length and vertical height aren't quite the same thing. 

Infinite Bliss is listed as 2600 here, so that's another contender for tallest/longest. Also has slab factor though.

Maybe something else alpine? North Ridge of Mt Stuart is huge, but again there's now a question of how strict we are about sustained 5th class. 

Nate A · · SW WA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

Pretty sure galactic hitchhiker on glacier point apron is in the running for California. 

Connor Dobson · · Louisville, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 269
Nate Awrote:

Pretty sure galactic hitchhiker on glacier point apron is in the running for California. 

Excluding alpine routes yes

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77
Nate Awrote:

Pretty sure galactic hitchhiker on glacier point apron is in the running for California. 

yup, fits the category as longest.
Tehipite is more vertical elevation no?

Matt Schilowitz · · California · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 381

Galactic Hitchhiker says 4,000 feet of climbing on this site. From the base of the cliff to the railing at Glacier point ft is 3,000ft of gain. Tehipite Dome shows about 3,300 feet of gain from base to summit - which is more in line with route lengths of full height routes.

Galactic Hitchhiker seems longer because of slabiness and traversing pitches I guess, but 1,000ft more? Does that count? If we are measuring a route by bottom to top distance instead of elevation gain, I think it’s just as fair to include an El Cap girdle traverse on overall steeper terrain, along with slab routes which add to their length by including horizontally traveled distance.


I think something in the middle “big wall” section of Cannon is probably taller than Pinnacle Ridge in NH.

This thread makes me curious about most difficult summits to reach by state. Castle rock spire? What would Florida be haha?

Tomko · · SANTA CLARA CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 20

Tehipite in CA has the most vertical, but including overall distance My Favorite Things on Cloud's Rest is likely a contender.

Chase Webb · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,536
MattHwrote:

NM: Shiprock, surely, but, among legal routes, Minerva's Temple in the Organs? The Shield in the Sandias? They're both a little over 1k and pretty dang vertical. Sure, sugarloaf is longer in a pitch length sense, but it's not that steep so IDK if it wins the 'vertical drop' contest.

New Mexico: Also in the no access category, but I think the Brazos Cliffs have Shiprock beat by quite a bit.

Oklahoma: Among public access, it would have to be either "S-Wall" at Quartz Mountain or "League of Doom" linked into "Space Balls" on Lichen Wall in the WMWR. (edit: I completely forgot about the Elk Slabs, which is longer than both.)

Arkansas: Would have to be something on the Buffalo.

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,396
Chase Webbwrote:

New Mexico: Also in the no access category, but I think the Brazos Cliffs have Shiprock beat by quite a bit.

Learned something new! Never even heard of that area before.

Also wow, how did I miss Cannon in the NH list. Too much time in N Conway I guess...

Giovanni Ratti · · Maryland · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 10

Not to brag or anything but at Harper's ferry Maryland we have routes up to 200 ft

Vinnie Villegas · · North Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 141

As for Oregon, I believe it is the Peregrine Traverse out at Acker Rock, 1500ft of climbing! Close second would be Barad-Dûr or the Morgul Vale at Wolf Rock.

Kyle Mills · · Spruce Knob, WV · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

West Virginia: Almost Alpine 7000+ ft

Gerald Adams · · Sacramento · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Does the Full Palisades Traverse qualify ? It is usually described as the longest route in the lower 48.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

For New Hampshire, while Whitehorse routes are long, both the lower and upper sections are too low angle to meet OP’s criteria. While I believe that the ‘big wall’ section on Cannon is the ‘winner’ for New Hampshire, another possible ‘contender’ is Mt. Willard. While slabby, Willard is overall steeper than Whitehorse and has some quite long routes.

In Massachusetts, the newly ‘opened’ Hanging Mountain in the southwest corner of the state has the longest ‘vertical’ routes in the state. For Connecticut, I recall many years ago doing a 2 or 3 pitch route on an obscure schist cliff in Waterbury in the central part of the state. The cliff is located behind a shooting range ( added a bit if ‘spice’ to our climb), so off-limits. While our climb zig-zagged a bit, it is one and, as far as I know the longest, of only a handful of ‘vertical’ routes in the state longer than a single pitch.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Longest wall/route in each state?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.