Red Flag Phrases
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Big red flag: “This’d be 5.xx at the Gunks..” (I should know. I say it all the time) |
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When my angry food stealing crag dog goes in direct to someone’s gourmet Whole Foods snacky snacks. Can we all agree to disagree on the whole “in direct” thing and get back to funny nonsense uttered at the crag. Half of us say it, the other half despise it, life goes on. |
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You're not one of those guys who shouts allez! allez! too, are you? |
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When I hear "I'm mostly an alpine climber" from anybody who isn't pretty strong I just just hear "I'm not used to catching falls" |
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People used to say, "Climb when ready." Reminds me of road sign: Be prepared to stop. When driving one should allways be prepared to stop. Or: End construction. Really? Like in protest? This road's pretty messed up I'm thinking. |
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Cherokee Nuneswrote: Wouldn’t even know how to pronounce it! |
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Gunkiemikewrote: Indirect means indirect belay. Not in direct. In other words, they are clipped into something else keeping themselves safe so the belayer can take it easy (short for give slack to move around and free up the balls from sticking to the thighs and maybe relax the break hand depending on the situation) for a bit. If they say, “indirect you can take me off belay,” they have an indirect belay and the belayer can take them off, bit wordy for my taste, I prefer, “I’m safe, take me off.” Less wordy. Common misconception though. |
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philip bonewrote: This is why we use the dude on rock, rock on dude these days. |
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philip bonewrote: I actually use this a lot from a safety perspective. I tell my partners that my commands for multipitch routes when in earshot is “take”, “slack”, “off belay”, and “on belay, climb when ready”. If you do a lot of pitch linking, the difference between your climber moving relatively quickly over easy terrain and pulling up the rest of the rope slack to put you on belay through rope drag and full rope weight is smaller than you’d think. So this basically says “medium length command, take me off belay. Long length command, you’re ready to climb”. I also do “rope tugs” where I’ll pull up an arm load of slack, hold it, and then drop it 3 times to signify belay changeovers if I don’t hear them respond to my commands. Lastly it confirms to both myself and them that they’ll be belayed attentively when they start climbing regardless of whether I hear them shout “climbing” or not. Anyways, I’ll second that teaching someone to clean an anchor at the crag is a great sign for me to be getting out of there as soon as possible. Another is someone talking about how easy something was, especially if they just dogged it. “Oh that wasn’t that hard”. I’m not trying to do the dick measuring contest with a new partner and if you downgrade or brush off something after dogging it I will loudly boo you and call you on your shit. It’s ok to struggle, it’s part of the sport. |
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Nick Budkawrote: Yep, proving the point that there is confusion with the word/phrase.
So clipped into a single piece? Yay. Fuck redundancy. Time for me to relax.
Yeah, holding that rope in my brake hand is utterly exhausting. Love it when my partner says indirect. Or was it in direct. I was getting pumped. So I’ll chill either way.
sounds like you need some new underwear.
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Nick Budkawrote: Nick, off belay is different from giving a bit of slack so you're not actively taking. If someone shouts off belay without having cleared with me that they're rappelling, then I'm going to follow up asking why. This kind of misconception is *exactly* why the command is confusing. I was taught to use it, but I don't think I will, because almost immediately after saying it I follow up with "slack" because I'm about to clean. I didn't even think of going in direct mid-route, but I guess it makes sense when projecting. |
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"Me do now. Go. Stop worry." "Oceans. Fish. Jump. China. Direct." |
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I'm sensing another red flag developing: arguing incessantly over other people's climbing commands. I think this goes along with a red flag that a couple others have mentioned already, the 'One True Path' person. |
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'my new route is good, it just needs some traffic and it'll clean up well.' Fuck off with that shit. |
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So clipped into a single piece? Yay. Fuck redundancy. Time for me to relax. You know how to place a cam that can hold body weight right? |
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Nick Niebuhrwrote: technically, 2 x body weight if you're hanging on it :) |
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Nick Budkawrote: This belongs in the gatekeeping thread |
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curt86irocwrote: Well, ackchyually….. About 1.65x if a normal “take” 1x if you go “in direct” So ackchyually going “in direct” is a savvy safety enhancement for weak climbers. I’m a convert. Who says arguing on the internet never changed minds? Lol. |
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pssh, i put 100% efficient pulleys on every piece of gear i place...friction is a myth |
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And no one has mentioned the number one cause of death south of the Mason-Dixon Line, “Here, hold my beer” |