How many years does it take to climb astroman?

Is this elite? Can anyone do it? How long would it take to train up to that good? Are there any training techniques I could use to narrow my chest and make the Harding slot more likely?

Definitely inspired by the 8a thread that’s going on right now

Bring a few extra quick draws

ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

You can do it 

Thanks :D

Typically climbed in a day although I think you could stretch it out over several days. I don't know about years though

1/365th

I think most people do it isn’t one day. No need to bivouac overnight, let alone for days or years. 

You do it in a day, but the whole time you're staring at Electric Lady Land which is right there and usually takes multiple days so it's kinda cool that way.

Don't forget that last 10+ pitch that never gets mentioned. Totally scary kick in the ass to summit.

a climber could probably [free] climb Astroman within 5 years of starting to climb (definitely sooner than they could send 8a)

Hmmm… I’m 65. I guess if I start training hard I could do Astroman when I’m 70. I’m on it! ; )

Oh, to be young again… 

Depends on what you mean by "climb."  Following it, with falls/takes is a lot easier than leading it clean.  I did the former after 2 years of climbing (and only climbing in the valley, so pretty much exclusively cracks).  I didn't do the latter for another 5 years though.

The Harding Slot wasn't the crux for me (I'm skinny), it was the enduro pitch... so pumped!

Nate Allenwrote:

The Harding Slot wasn't the crux for me (I'm skinny), it was the enduro pitch... so pumped!

See, I'm also skinny and I thought the Harding Slot was 12b and the crux of the whole route. I even tied the rack, water, descent shoes and everything in a loop of rope 3 feet below me to be skinny af, still thought it was 12b and turbo unpleasant.

If you do Astroman, the Rostrum, the Bachar/Yerian or any of those routes, just drag a belayer and lead every pitch so the locals don't think you're light.

To add a case study. I started climbing in 2008. First went to the valley in 2009. Started climbing there a lot (just weekend trips) in 2012, which was key. First climbed (swinging leads) astroman in 2013. Fell once at the slot entrance that go. And it felt very tight. But most of the route felt ok. I agree that the getting dragged up vs. trying to send distinction is huge.

I climbed it again in 2014 and it all felt very chill, including the slot. And I didn't get skinnier in that time - I'm convinced it's a technique thing (to an extent of course). Now, I’d probably get beat down cause I haven’t been climbing in Yosemite in a while.

Moral of the story - climb a bunch in Yosemite (or other similar granite) and you'll be there in no time if you are dedicated enough. There are some old threads on Supertopo about preparing for Astroman that might be fun to read for you.

Another case study: I onsighted Astroman, swinging leads, 3 years and 9 months after I started climbing: October ‘78 to May ‘82.

This is quite quick but I had a number of factors in my favour: I was sufficiently committed to climbing to flunk my University course and for my employer to let me go when they restructured. Don’t follow this advice. 

However I was paid-off with enough money to support myself for a long trip to Yosemite. I got very accustomed to the climbing style and fell in with a bunch of strong folk, several of whom had already done Astroman which reduced the mental barrier. Time spent climbing in Yosemite is golden. 

As others have said, style makes a huge difference. Astroman is theoretically 6c+ (!) so should be easier than 8a.  However, trad. onsighting requires a variety of skills which take time to learn and, as Hank says, Astroman is not just well-protected crack climbing. Getting good enough for an onsight ascent might take as long as getting good enough to siege an 8a into red point submission.

Damn I’m psyched to actually get some advice out of this! I was mostly poking fun at that other thread.  

I definitely want to do it, and i I wanna do it right.  As in I want it to be onsight, and right at my limit but somehow someway I pull it off. And ideally at the end of a long stint in Yosemite.  Which that last part sounds like it’s a necessity to get used to the style.  

I am unfortunately working my way back from breaking my leg while bouldering, but will let you guys know how it goes when I make my way back.  

Until then, in the words of Hans Florine, ice and elevation baby!