New and experienced climbers over 50 # 25

I just asked Dave Y. He said Peace is harder 13+ (top down). BY was the benchmark for boldness 5.12 (ground up w hooks). Another friend was telling me about her ascent of Peace just recently. Intense effort, long falls, short window of good temps. 

Lori Milaswrote:

Bob said I just have to know the sequence.  That, and be able to do a one-arm pull up ...  

Pretty sure the former is the real trick and better approach.  Hard to imagine that that kind of arm and shoulder strength is needed to climb a facey 5.10, albeit one with an undercut start.  

Sure, real nice to have globs of power to spare on moves but as I was chided once with "why bother with technique when you can flaunt power?"
It hit home and I admitted that it was not a good send, especially since I was too lazy to climb the crux properly.  

still waiting for Lori to post up an epic day of cruising 10 moderate pitches and getting into the flow of climbing movement rather than yet another thrash on a single hard pitch.... 

Kristian Solemwrote:

Our big "secret crag" in the 90's was The Rincon. But it became apparent that despite the brilliant climbing to be had, there was no reason to be concerned about keeping it secret. No one wanted to hike up there, except for us, that is.

So the cat's been out of the bag for a while, but here it is:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/124218513/the-rincon

Dig into the sub-areas and routes. There are some cool pics in there. Even the great Greg Epperson hauled his photo rig up there once. 

I believe Endless Summer had been mentioned before in this Forum.  What a stunning looking route.  And a stud climbing it in the atatched photo -

Kris, which model of LS shoe did you have on you?  I can't say I recognize them.  Not Kendo or any of the super edging shoes form LS I know of.

Lori Milaswrote:

 

A happy memory showed up on my computer this morning... it brings laughter.  I wanted to climb CS Special, another Houser route. I mean... I REALLY wanted to climb it. But I could not get off the ground.

I know Todd could climb this.  Carl probably could, too.  You super strong guys could mantle up.  Nelson onsighted it.  Bob said I just have to know the sequence.  That, and be able to do a one-arm pull up ... 

Primarily, it is a height problem.  But, being shorter only means you have to have well rounded technique. Stemming and a hard pull work for my wife who is definitely not tall.

Idaho Bobwrote:

I'm planning a trip to Bernal, Mexico, late October/early November to climb on the Peña and NEED A PARTNER(S). This will be my 5th trip there for the multi-pitch sport climbing.  Sheree (who doesn't climb) and I want to arrive in time for Day of the Dead, stay about 10-12 days.  Accommodations are very reasonable at that time. Getting there is easy, direct flights to Queretaro airport and then 30 minute taxi to Bernal.   If you're interested contact me for more details.

PM-ed you

S. Neohwrote:

Kris, which model of LS shoe did you have on you?  I can't say I recognize them.  Not Kendo or any of the super edging shoes form LS I know of.

Those are an early version of the Scarpa Techno's. Awesome shoes for my narrow feet...

Lori, Peace and the B&Y only have two things in common.  They are both on Medlicott Dome and they are both knob climbs.  The B&Y takes commitment and a good head to climb.  It isn't that hard but it is sustained.  People who climb it only get on it when they know they can climb it because the repercussions of falling off are severe.  Peace on the other hand is really thin, even more sustained, but takes almost no commitment.  People routinely 'work' the route, falling on it over and over because the bolts are so close together that there is no risk to falling.  Even though Peace is way harder, I suspect it has more people try to climb it every year than the B&Y.  Most that get on Peace will never man up and commit to the B&Y.

Jan Mcwrote:

 Most that get on Peace will never man up and commit to the B&Y.

Sorry, but that term can no longer be used.  Maybe try “non birthing human” or “uterus free entity” or “testes driven terrestrial hominid meat sack”.

Jan Mcwrote:

 The B&Y takes commitment and a good head to climb.  It isn't that hard but it is sustained.  People who climb it only get on it when they know they can climb it because the repercussions of falling off are severe.  

I thinking falling was not so unusual in the early attempts at repeats.  When we moved to Palo Alto in 1981, Eddie Barry was our landlord (super nice guy).  Sometime after getting to know him, we read in Climbing magazine that he had taken a 50 foot fall off the BY during the third free ascent.  Below is Clint Cummins compilation of the early ascents, taken from the Supertopo thread on the topic started by Shipoopoi/SS, and you can see that some of the best climbers in the world of that time were falling off during their attempts.

Here is a rough list from these 2 threads:
year,month,day,ascent#,,,
1981,8,,1,John Bachar,Dave Yerian,"first ascent, over 3 days, no falls or hangs other than to place 4 of the bolts from hooks"
1982,,,attempt,Wolfgang Gullich,Thierry Renault,"Gullich fell 30' on p1, Renault fell 30' and 60' on p2"
1982,,,attempt,Alan Nelson,Rob Oravetz,"Oravetz fell on p2, ""Path of the Master"" article"
1983,,,2,Steve Schneider,Scott Frye,"Schneider led all pitches, no falls"
1984,,,3,Kurt Smith,Ed Barry,"Barry fell on p2, then went back up and led it"
1984?,,,4,Christian Griffith,Tim Wagner,no falls
1984?,,,5,Scott Cosgrove,,"1 week after Griffith, no falls"
1984?,,,,Jerry Moffat,John Bachar,"Moffat took a 15 meter fall, according to Gullich's book"
1984?,8,30,4?,Mike Waugh,Darryl Nakahira,"Waugh has done this route 5 times. Cosgrove recalls Waugh's first time was a couple of years later, but might be one of his later times?"
1985?,,,,Rob Oravetz,Scott Cosgrove,not long after Cosgrove's first time
1985,7?,,,Todd Worsfold,,"no falls, early summer"
198?,,,attempt,Tom Higgins,(rope solo),"backed off of p2, was using Jumar self belay"
198?,,,,Wolfgang Gullich,Heinz Zak,"Gullich led p1 w/ no pro, swung leads, no falls this time"
1986,,,,Dave Shultz,Al Swanson,with Greg Epperson taking photos
1988,,,,Lance Bateman,Dave Bell,"Bateman fell 50' on p2"

Russ Wallingwrote:

Sorry, but that term can no longer be used.  Maybe try “non birthing human” or “uterus free entity” or “testes driven terrestrial hominid meat sack”.

I agree... and have thought long and hard about the distasteful name "Loose Lady".  It should obviously be called "Person of Non-Binary Gender with Dubious Moral Turpitude". or simply PNBGDMT.

Lori Milaswrote:

I agree... and have thought long and hard about the distasteful name "Loose Lady".  It should obviously be called "Person of Non-Binary Gender with Dubious Moral Turpitude". or simply PNBGDMT.

It should have been called 'loose pile of rubble that we knocked the shit out of with a hammer so that we could climb on it'.  But I used to wax romantic a bit.

Agave watch day 104.  Fully 1/2 of the pods are wide open and seem to be producing some kind of liquid nectar.  The bees and the hummingbirds are all over it at the source.  It's dripping down the stalk and splashing on the death-sword leaves, so much that there is a pool of it in one of them. 

Russ Wallingwrote:

Sorry, but that term can no longer be used.  Maybe try “non birthing human” or “uterus free entity” or “testes driven terrestrial hominid meat sack”.

Everyone is putting ‘he/him’, she/her and ‘they/them’ on their work email signatures these days. I really really want to put ‘it/thing’ on mine, or ‘entity/mass existing in space and time’ but I’m afraid it won’t go down well.
We also have a LOT of Aboriginal flags on desks. I’d like to put up a German flag on mine.  

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Everyone is putting ‘he/him’, she/her and ‘they/them’ on their work email signatures these days. I really really want to put ‘it/thing’ on mine, or ‘entity/mass existing in space and time’ but I’m afraid it won’t go down well.

That's hilarious Carl.  Just yesterday I was thinking that I should put It/Them (like from the SF  movies) on my emails.  But like you, I felt others might not appreciate it.

Others??? Think before you slander us. That's like being called mostly harmless.

I don't like anyone. So whatever you call yourself or me I am good with it. 

 Jan, that's a great idea I'm going to terrorize the Driod's kids with "Them" this morning. 

Droid & Meathead were running wiring into my bathroom yesterday when I decided to kill the Wasps nesting on the house near them. I got called a lot of things really fast.

Mark, we were looking forward to coming up and spending time with the whole menagerie, but this weekend is just too hot.  We are aiming for next weekend.  Tioga just opened to the NPS gate so we can go up there and hike around some maybe.  Or just head up Rock Creek.

This came up in my Facebook memories today, 8 years ago, a Supertopo gathering at Shuteye Ridge organized by Justin Ross. I see Frumy, Justin, Mindy and Jeremy, Vitaly M. Paul M probably avoiding being photographed.  Many others I’ve forgotten. Guy should be in this pic somewhere? Photo credit I’m pretty sure by Daphne. 

This is my favorite month of the year and this year July is not letting me down. It’s just so amazingly gorgeous! I’ve been getting up early and hiking in the shade. But I am getting handed some lessons. After falling into a large  bush of catsclaw and getting pretty cut up, two days later when I was on a trail home I felt a fast pain in the back of my leg and I thought for sure it was a snake bite. Instead, it was some kind of cactus ball of shrapnel that I had never encountered before and I discovered that when I tried to pick out the shards with my fingers, then they stuck in my fingers and everything was bleeding. So I spent the better part of the morning on my stomach while Tony pulled out the little cactus spears with tweezers, one by one. They were seriously in deep!

This morning, when I was hiking up at the buttress I narrowly missed stepping on a rattlesnake, and he was gentlemanly enough to give me a little rattle and slither off into a bush. It reminded me to send a message off to my endocrinologist to ask if there are any special concerns about venom or antivenom for a diabetic. I am surprised how little anyone knows about diabetes, including ER nurses and doctors who will hook you up with the bag of glucose without a thought.  As my doctor said “you have to always pack your own parachute“

I have become so enamored of this rock. It turns out it has a route with a name – – Stargazer 10b.  I can’t think of a more perfect name for it. I’m guessing it’s not something that could be set up for a toprope, which makes me sad. I know there are many other rock edifices that can be set up for a beautiful climb, Headstone comes to mind.

It’s very strange that my business should be calling me lately and asking me to dive back in a little and get involved. I don’t know what to make of it. Lately, I’ve had to be firm about setting some priorities – – exercise goes to the top of the list.  

Tony has to gout again. I’ve seen him in this kind of pain now many times and it hurts me. Finally he seems to be interested in talking about diet.

Hope everyone is having a wonderful day. Post pictures!

Marination Station.  

I can't believe you've lived here for so long and never run into cholla before.