The Rincon Rock Climbing

The following description refers to the "Approach Hike Overview" image. The GPS waypoints are good, but I cannot promise that the line drawn to show the trail is perfect.

From the trailhead, follow the well-established Rincon Trail for about ¾ mile, gaining 550 feet of elevation. As the trail levels and swings north, you will encounter a narrow rocky passage. Shortly after here, at an open area, the climber’s trail turns off to the right. The GPS for this point is: 35°53'43.70"   - 118°26'49.10".

Follow the path marked with cairns. In about .1 mile you will come to a beautiful boulder with a left leaning crack. This is A Couple of Nuts, FA Kristian Solem and Guy Keesee, 1996. It’s about 5.10b/c, descend by simul rapping opposite sides of the boulder. GPS for this spot is #2:  35°53'41.73" -118°26'41.91".

Follow the marked trail uphill from the boulder. In May 2023 Guy Keesee and I ran into some trail damage here. I took waypoints 3 and 4 to help get around this mess —several very large fallen trees across the trail in a steep gully — and to reconnect with the original trail going up. Refer to image "Trail Damage May 2023."

#3: 35°53'42.10"    - 118°26'39.20” From here, punch your way straight up through some bushes and go around the uphill end of the downed trees. Then traverse back down the far side of the ravine and pick up the trail at:

#4: 35°53'42.20"    - 118°26'38.20"

From here march up steep terrain, following cairns, to our favorite rest spot, Skully Point, named after a favorite pipe of mine made in the shape of a miniature skull. 

#5: 35°53'39.60"     - 118°26'30.10"

Continue up steep ground to:

#6: 35°53'39.30"    - 118°26'26.00"

From here the terrain opens up, and the route is well marked. You will encounter a few bits of 4th class/easy 5th class rock: a nice juggy 20' corner, and a slabby section. Finally, the trail will bring you to the first of the climbs, at the “E Cracks” face.

#7: 35°53'43.71"    - 118°26'14.49"

Traverse right across ledges, up a rock step with a small cave under it, and out onto the Sun Deck. You have arrived, welcome to The Rincon!

#8: 35°53'43.08"   -118°26'12.55"

Ticks are a concern when climbing in the Kern Canyon. Paying careful attention, and taking certain precautions, can mitigate the risk of being bitten or harmed by these nasty insects. Although there were a few bites among our crew over the years we climbed there, no one had a serious problem or contracted Lyme Disease.

A wealth of information can be found online about how to deter and remove ticks. I’ll just say this: pay attention. Keep an eye on your pants legs, socks, waist, etc. If you even think you feel an itch stop and check it out, preferably on a rock away from the vegetation. A tick caught early in the act is easily handled. What you don’t want to do is get back to camp that night and find one that’s been at it all day. Carry a tiny light mirror and good tweezers. I recommend Uncle Bill's Sliver Grippers. The mirror can save you from having to endure an embarrassing inspection / procedure by one of your partners. Carry a few alcohol prep pads and a tiny tube of Neosporin to clean and disinfect even a tiny new bite.

My experience at the Rincon has been that while one might encounter ticks on the approach, the climbing area is quite safe from the little buggers. I’ve always made a complete change of clothes upon arrival at the Sun Deck or Flight Deck. Turn the stuff you wore on the hike inside out and make sure it’s clear to don for the trip back down.

Bolts and anchors. The majority of the bolts at the Rincon are quality 3/8” hardware; Fixe, Hilti, Powers. We were serious about the quality of our materials, and our methods of placing them. Some of the rap stations are equipped with chains, but many are not, and any party going up there to climb should bring plenty of 1” tubular webbing to replace old tat, or better yet install chains/rings/links as applicable. I would recommend that a party carry a bolt kit to the base. A simple hand drill would give climbers the option to add a bolt to a belay/rap anchor should the need arise.  

Rescue. There’s no cell service at the Rincon, and it’s a long way down the hill and back to town for help. Be careful. Enough said.

Trail work. If you take a liking to the area and decide you want to tick a bunch of the routes or find something new of your own, consider investing a little time in keeping the trail up. Just carrying clippers and resetting cairns knocked down over time will help.

Bivy at the crag, or camp at the car? Having done both more than once, I recommend car camping for the Rincon. Two or three days are ideal. Huck the ropes and gear up on day one and leave it up there. It’s surprisingly fast and fun getting down at the end of the day, and hiking up light without the gear the next morning is good to.

Development of climbing at the Rincon began in 1991, when Mike Flood and Rob Brown, strong and adventurous climbers both, hiked up cross country and did several routes including S-Crack. Shortly after that Flood, Brown, and Troy Bailey established Snow Job on the Winter Wall. The area had its first real classic, and it was game on.

Over the next decade the regular crew consisted of, alphabetically, Troy Bailey, Larry Cote, Erik Eriksson, Mike Flood, Chelsea Griffie, Guy Keesee, William Leventhal, Gene Mayo, Craig Morris, and Kristian Solem.

The ethic was traditional, so all the routes were done ground up without preview. Due to the generally excellent rock quality, there was no need for cleaning. We just scoped the faces from the base, picked a line, and started climbing. Bolts were placed from stances or from hooks, but never when there was reasonable gear. The result is a collection of climbs that have character and offer adventures.

By 2005 activity at the Rincon had slowed, although I know of several occasions since then when strong parties have visited the area.