Summer Destinations

Just graduated from college and am planning to spend the next 2 months or so climbing out of my car before starting to work. Generally plan to be out west/northwest, but don't have any specific plans yet, as I mostly want to follow the weather. Just looking for some general suggestions to keep in mind as I go.

Details:

Late June through ~late August(will be moving around so doesn't have to be good conditions in one area the whole time).

Looking for areas with good bouldering and sport climbing. I will be alone so want access to good bouldering, but would also like to find sport partners at areas I spend more than a few days at. I boulder up to V7 and sport climb in the 12s. Lots of boulders with good landings I can do alone with 2 pads is a bonus.

Free or very cheap camping nearby is a must. I've got a few buddies I'd be able to stay with in a couple major cities, but would like to spend most of my time camping closer to the crag to cut down on gas costs going to and from every day.

Other than that, no real requirements. I'll be in a Forester so shouldn't have an issue with most approach roads. I enjoy climbing in every style and rock type, though my toughest sends tend towards technical climbing close to vertical. Prefer being able to sleep in my car, but I'll have a backpack ready to go if I find a cool site I want to hike into.

Thanks for the help, and feel free to ask for more info.

Dane Dingmanwrote:

Late June through ~late August(will be moving around so doesn't have to be good conditions in one area the whole time).

Looking for areas with good bouldering and sport climbing. I will be alone so want access to good bouldering, but would also like to find sport partners at areas I spend more than a few days at. I boulder up to V7 and sport climb in the 12s. 

 I enjoy climbing in every style and rock type, though my toughest sends tend towards technical climbing close to vertical.

Here's the standard advice:

The premier desinations for summer sport climbing in the US are Rifle, Maple, and Tensleep. All will offer decent (though not perfect) summer conditions and good shade options. As a 5.12 sport climber you'll have a feast of routes to do at all of them.

Don't worry about the solo traveller partner situation at these major areas. Show up at any of those areas during peak summer season, and you'll find tons of partners straight away with no issues. Great way to make lots of new friends too; being solo forces you to be outgoing.

Of these areas you'll probably like Ten Sleep the most. Vert tech climbing style and ample free camping. You'd have a great time. But really you should do a circuit where you visit each of them for a few weeks. That's a great summer road trip (I've done that summer trip multiple times, back when I had summers free.)

I generally find when travelling solo it is better to stick to the major destinations with a big scene, and stay long enough to embed in that scene. Better than bouncing around to smaller areas by yourself and struggling to find partners and social scene.

For bouldering, your best option is Squamish. Again, a major destination with an active scene. You'll find lots of good partners from day 1. Best social scene is to stay at the Chief campground (walking distance to the boulders is a big plus). Getting campsites has gotten trickier over the years, but is manageable. Beautiful place, great chill hangout vibe, high density of climbing. The sport climbing is really good too. If you wanted to settle into one spot and mix bouldering and sport, Squamish is the spot.

Colorado alpine bouldering is also a great summer option, but it's a lot less chill than Squamish. The climbing is hard, the approaches are often long and rugged, the climbing is more spread out, and there's not a single concentrated camping/partners scene. You just have to work a bit harder for it. Squamish would be my choice, especially so at the V7 and under range.

So in summary, I'd suggest looking at Squamish, Tensleep, Maple, and Rifle. Go wherever sparks your interest and makes a reasonable driving circuit. Probably do a circuit of several of these spots.

There are various high altitude zones in CA that also offered a mix of sport and boulders. Tahoe, Mammoth, etc. Great climbing at these places, and summer conditions are manageable. But these are also more spread out and are less ideal for the solo traveller. You could find people to climb with certainly, but you'd work for it more and probably spend some days alone. As compared to Squamish or Tensleep where you just show up and a partners/social scene will bring you in without any notable effort. It just kind of happens.

That said, if you're passing through CA there's some great options to stop at. Hit me up if you need specific location ideas within California (Tahoe is my home area these days).

Two other areas not mentioned that have good summer conditions are the Lander, Wyo. area, especially Wild Iris, with camping below the crags, usually lots of potential partners, and plenty of routes in your grades. There are a number of other good areas around Lander, but Iris is the most popular.

Another area, not too far from Lander and also potentially en route to Tensleep is the Uinta Mountains in north central Utah off of Highway 50– with Ruth Lake being the central location. These crags are in a beautiful alpine environment at 10,500 so great summer location, with most climbs only a short walk from the car and a variety of camping options ( most pay, though). However, it is somewhat less likely to have a scene, so might be hard to find partners, still worth checking out if you will be passing nearby.

If you're looking for crowded crags (which is great for finding partners) then Ten Sleep and Maple are solid options. Rifle just recently opened, any other year it would also have tremendous crowds (read: partners) but I have no clue how this year will turn out with the amount of moisture it has received. I've heard rumors they may shut the road down again for repairs. Who knows. I would recommend Lander over Ten Sleep for a solo climber personally, especially if you're looking for free camping. Finding partners at the Rock Ranch is pretty easy, but then you have to pay for pretty tight quarters (with showers and internet though). RMNP and the Front Range region is your best bet for bouldering though.

I never was won over by Lander as a summer destination. The main cliffs are just too damn south facing. 

I haven’t bouldered in Canmore, but I think there might be a book. Anyway lake Louise is maybe the coldest I have ever been climbing in the summer. It might be a bit harder to find a partner but doing a tour of the Canadian crags probably yields the best climbing conditions. There are a lot of things to do in banff, not climbing related.

Thanks for all the tips! I've got a good list of areas to be psyched on now, and can be informed playing it by ear with regards to weather as I go.

Canadian crags, particularly Squamish, would be super cool but unfortunately I don't have an active passport and things have been too backed up to make that happen in time. That said, I've also never been out to Western US except coastal California and Vegas, so I don't think I'll be too disappointed spending my time in the mountains.

Thanks again!

Dane Dingmanwrote:

Thanks for all the tips! I've got a good list of areas to be psyched on now, and can be informed playing it by ear with regards to weather as I go.

Canadian crags, particularly Squamish, would be super cool but unfortunately I don't have an active passport and things have been too backed up to make that happen in time. That said, I've also never been out to Western US except coastal California and Vegas, so I don't think I'll be too disappointed spending my time in the mountains.

Thanks again!

https://www.dhs.gov/enhanced-drivers-licenses-what-are-they

I’m looking for a partner for various places in WY July 14-28 if you’re interested

Miami

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Canmore... Canadian crags probably yields the best climbing conditions.

Concur.  Canmore is easily the BEST summer conditions of all destination-worthy sport climbing venues in N. America.  Day time temps are mild; many cliffs are shady, windy, and or north facing. 

The crags are spread out and often involve 30-45 minute approaches.  There is some very specific decent free camping spots (ask a local).  Partners might be harder to find than rifle or ten sleep, etc.

Oh, and Did I mention it's world class limestone!!!

[just read that you don't have a passport; still, relevant to the topic at hand: CANMORE!]

Dane Dingmanwrote:

and can be informed playing it by ear with regards to weather as I go.

Also make sure to keep an eye on smoke conditions through the summer. In recent summers in the western states this has been a significant deciding factor in where to go.

Suggested resource:

https://fire.airnow.gov/