New and Experienced climbers over 50 ##24

Murfwrote:

Looks like the Bugs, but a bit like 3rd Pillar of Dana ( its obviously not ).  Sweet looking pitch though.

I also thought it looked like 3rd Pillar!

Climbing is about road trips and joining/meeting friends on fun adventures,  I wish I still lived just a few hours from the city, it was always a special place to go for a few days of A+ granite.

more shots from the E Rosebud route. the little village on the lake is called Little Switzerland

that last shot was the scary part. funky flared gear and super commiting move. 

Nice photos Nick. Isa looks like she's running it out a little in the third photo.

You live in a beautiful place, Nick! Thank you for continuing to post the various things you are up to.

I saw this headline in my AARP magazine and got pretty elated.  The Rock Warriors Way for seniors!  But nooooo.   Professional stuntmen demonstrate how to fall when you trip over your kitchen linoleum.  

15 years ago after my final bone scan I learned that I had moderate osteoporosis—worse than the scan 2 years prior, and my doctor was adamant that it was too late to do anything to reverse that other to start some very strong IV drugs. When I said I would take some time to research it, he fired me. But before he did, he warned me that if I broke my hip, I would have more than a 50% chance of dying with in a year.

I took it very seriously, so I went out to talk to some other experts first, and then I put together a plan which included dietary changes, more direct sunlight, vitamin D, and most of all strength training. I believe some additional estrogen and testosterone was in the mix as well. I think I took a pass on strontium. Anyway, today I do not have osteoporosis, but I am strong AF and how could you not be rock climbing in this beautiful sun?

Tony says he drove through 200 miles of hail and snow in Colorado but he got to the hotel safely and you can tell this just brings new life to him. He has another thousand miles to go today.  I’m surprised he’s not trying to put diesel in his Hyundai.  He came within 7 miles of running out of gas he said because there was 156 mile stretch of road with no service of any kind. I hope he’s happy.

Lori, this was the view looking through the living room window yesterday. Not a great day to be driving.

Given his work history, I’m sure that a long and difficult drive is as ‘liberating’ for Tony, as some of your walk/scrambles in JTree are for you.

Having, due to letting myself momentarily become distracted, taken a good fall onto a concrete sidewalk ( going into my climbing gym!!!!) I can attest that there is insufficient time to do anything significant to position yourself in such circumstances—all instinct. Fortunately I seem to have survived relatively intact—even stupidly climbed a bit that evening—I’m very stubborn!!!! But it was a good reminder to always pay attention and avoid distractions, even when doing something very familiar.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Given his work history, I’m sure that a long and difficult drive is as ‘liberating’ for Tony, as some of your walk/scrambles in JTree are for you.

Having, due to letting myself momentarily become distracted, taken a good fall onto a concrete sidewalk ( going into my climbing gym!!!!) I can attest that there is insufficient time to do anything significant to position yourself in such circumstances—all instinct. Fortunately I seem to have survived relatively intact—even stupidly climbed a bit that evening—I’m very stubborn!!!! But it was a good reminder to always pay attention and avoid distractions, even when doing something very familiar.

I’ve read several times that we seniors trip about as often as young people do but the difference is our reflexes are slower so we don’t catch ourselves before we hit the pavement.  I don’t know about you and the rest of the gang but starting scrambling and climbing so late in life my reflexes are incredibly sharp relative to the days I spent sitting in an office. I have caught myself many times while out hiking and just surprised how fast my body reacts. Of course also while climbing, even though it’s just looks like such a slow and tedious sport, you have to be fast to prevent falls on the rock. This week on some overhanging face climbs I really saw how quick I have to be to leave one hold and grab another and everything else has to be positioned perfectly or down you go. I just love this sport, more and more.  

I’ve had an entirely different subject on my mind for days, and just to mention it here and maybe you guys will take off with it. That word “misfits“ keeps coming up with regard to climbers – – at least some of us. Alongside it is the word dirtbag. I guess I’m wondering about those who knew this about themselves as teenagers, but left that misfit life to go get a job, establish a career, get the house with the green lawn and button down.

For 40+ years I felt like a stranger in a strange land. It was a semi legal hard driving profession, and I excelled at it but I hoped the day would come that I could do something more true. When I told my friend Mallory that I was moving to the desert, she said “Lori, you will hate it! You need luxury!” No! I do not need luxury! My mother and Tony and others who only knew me in a business suit couldn’t imagine my doing anything else.

I think it was spending time at Todd’s party that I saw how many of us have gone feral. If Tony wasn’t here, making pasta and waiting for me to come home, I don’t know if I would ever come off the desert. That word misfit is a true fit.  I’ve never been more comfortable or certain.

Anyone else?

Lori, all of us have slept hundreds or thousands of nights on a tarp on the ground at Josh and I don't know of a single instance of anything nasty climbing into a sleeping bag.  I did have one instance where I picked my pants up in the morning and large black widow fell out.  The only instance of something climbing into a bag was while water skiing and a gopher ran into someone's bag before we had gone to sleep.  He bolted out of there so fast!  And we all laughed so hard!!!

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, all of us have slept hundreds or thousands of nights on a tarp on the ground at Josh and I don't know of a single instance of anything nasty climbing into a sleeping bag.  I did have one instance where I picked my pants up in the morning and large black widow fell out.  The only instance of something climbing into a bag was while water skiing and a gopher ran into someone's bag before we had gone to sleep.  He bolted out of there so fast!  And we all laughed so hard!!!

I've woken up on river trips to find scorpion tracks in the sand all around the(zipped up) sleeping bag. Camping on the backside of HV campground once i woke up to a fresh pile of coyote skat at my feet. Gotta love nature.

This here is a deal breaker.    Neighbors house. I have also camped here but never considered the possibility. I’m going to have to get over it.

I also never considered the possibility of a rattlesnake halfway up the crack on Illusion Dweller but apparently it happened.

Meanwhile, is anyone a Dave Matthews fan and if so WHY? I have tried to understand the appeal. There are two songs I love—one included here.  But the rest… what’s wrong with me?  Explain this music, please.  I can try again.

Lori Milaswrote:

Meanwhile, is anyone a Dave Matthews fan and if so WHY? I have tried to understand the appeal. There are two songs I love—one included here.  But the rest… what’s wrong with me?  Explain this music, please.  I can try again.

Only if you can explain Steely Dan.

M Mwrote:

Climbing is about road trips and joining/meeting friends on fun adventures, 

So true.  I get a big kick out of visiting new climbing areas, taking in the local vibe, and meeting people from all over.  Not to mention different rock types.  
Still got to experience basalt columns and volcanic tuff. Too chicken to try out gritstone.
All very motivating since warmups of yore at 'local' crags have become projects or semi-projects!

S. Neohwrote:

So true.  I get a big kick out of visiting new climbing areas, taking in the local vibe, and meeting people from all over.  Not to mention different rock types.  
Still got to experience basalt columns and volcanic tuff. Too chicken to try out gritstone.
All very motivating since warmups of yore at 'local' crags have become projects or semi-projects!

I could live in a basalt only region, between the endless amount of 5.9-5.11 cracks and the sport climbs its probably my favorite all around rock for cragging days, routes being 10' apart is super convenient! I've spent some time on other volcanic byproducts, definitely hit or miss. I always figured if I have a chance to climb gritstone I'll be happy toproping CT style!

M Mwrote:

I could live in a basalt only region, between the endless amount of 5.9-5.11 cracks and the sport climbs its probably my favorite all around rock for cragging days, routes being 10' apart is super convenient! I've spent some time on other volcanic byproducts, definitely hit or miss. I always figured if I have a chance to climb gritstone I'll be happy toproping CT style!

Yes, although I sometimes miss CA granite, I have to say I really enjoy the basalt climbing (sport and trad) here in central Oregon.

S. Neohwrote:

So true.  I get a big kick out of visiting new climbing areas, taking in the local vibe, and meeting people from all over.  Not to mention different rock types.  
Still got to experience basalt columns and volcanic tuff. Too chicken to try out gritstone.
All very motivating since warmups of yore at 'local' crags have become projects or semi-projects!

Walking up to a completely new fresh crag, with different stone type, from what I’m usta is what keeps climbing fresh for me. Recently I went to Maple Canyon- had my mind blown by the solid conglomerate! I had always figured, based on my local knowledge, that it had to be total choss.
I had to dial down my expectations to 5.6 to get a RP. Got shut down horribly on 5.8 - made me cry like a baby.
Neoh- you need to come out to Bishop and the ORG - you could kill two birds with one stone.
And “Grit” and it’s reputation is more of a style and not a function of the stone. Up north of Trona, in Bendire Canyon, is some sort of Limestone/Marble/Grindstone. It has so much friction that you don’t need hand holds or foot holds to climb- just the right shape. We did a FA, the “Hummingbird Arete” 5.10+. It’s a nice slightly overhanging Arete. You wrap your arms and legs around it and squeeze them together hard. But it’s all rap bolted and safe- my English cousins would have done it with 3 little stoppers….. 

Later all 

Guy Keeseewrote:

 But it’s all rap bolted and safe- my English cousins would have done it with 3 little stoppers….. 

I shared a campsite in Yosemite once with a Brit and his wife who were ticking off 5.12s daily with the most basic and small rack I had ever seen, definitely impressed all around. He never even asked to borrow a cam or two and we offered!

Guy Keeseewrote:

Neoh- you need to come out to Bishop and the ORG - you could kill two birds with one stone.
And “Grit” and it’s reputation is more of a style and not a function of the stone. Up north of Trona, in Bendire Canyon, is some sort of Limestone/Marble/Grindstone. It has so much friction that you don’t need hand holds or foot holds to climb- just the right shape. We did a FA, the “Hummingbird Arete” 5.10+. It’s a nice slightly overhanging Arete. You wrap your arms and legs around it and squeeze them together hard. But it’s all rap bolted and safe- my English cousins would have done it with 3 little stoppers….. 

Later all 

It so happens that I visited Bishop, bouldered at the Buttermilks, sport climbed at Owens almost exactly 25 years ago to the day.

I had forgotten that Owens' rock is volanic tuff. I had a fun 5 days. To me it felt a little like limestone, but more crumbly.
I was thrilled, awed, and humbled by the gigantic glacial erratics at the Buttermilks.
What a place! Had snow capped mountains in the distance as the backdrop. So pretty that I did not mind almost peeing in my pants from fright (I was by myslef with no pads, mind you).

I have only climbed at the Eastside once, but I remember the good times well! I would return if there are people willing to point me at the "doable" 5-star routes and problems!
I will rent a pad and bring my 80m this time :)

Edit to add:  Who can possiby forget a route with the name of "Show Me Your Tits", and living up to it.  But the two women climbers among us did not coorperate.  

S. Neohwrote:

It so happens that I visited Bishop, bouldered at the Buttermilks, sport climbed at Owens almost exactly 25 years ago to the day.

I had forgotten that Owens' rock is volanic tuff. I had a fun 5 days. To me it felt a little like limestone, but more crumbly.
I was thrilled, awed, and humbled by the gigantic glacial erratics at the Buttermilks.
What a place! Had snow capped mountains in the distance as the backdrop. So pretty that I did not mind almost peeing in my pants from fright (I was by myslef with no pads, mind you).

I have only climbed at the Eastside once, but I remember the good times well! I would return if there are people willing to point me at the "doable" 5-star routes and problems!
I will rent a pad and bring my 80m this time :)

Edit to add:  Who can possiby forget a route with the name of "Show Me Your Tits", and living up to it.  But the two women climbers among us did not coorperate.  

You would love the “new and improved” scene now. And you would need that 80 for the great climbing at Pine Creek!
Show us your tits…. Big run from last bolt to hard to clip anchor. I fell trying to clip them and took the big ride into thin air! The Bishop folks have a good sense of humor.

Guy Keeseewrote:

You would love the “new and improved” scene now. And you would need that 80 for the great climbing at Pine Creek!
Show us your tits…. Big run from last bolt to hard to clip anchor. I fell trying to clip them and took the big ride into thin air! The Bishop folks have a good sense of humor.

Oh, yeah, Pine Creek looks like "FIRE"!
Seems like evveryone has a 'good' story after climbing SUYT (to be politically sensitive and all!)