New and Experienced climbers over 50 ##24

Being a life long metal worker I have worried, and shown some evidence, of having metals accumulating in my body. One of the treatments for more severe cases of metal poisoning is a series of blood transfusions to leach the metals out of the patient. To that end I started donating blood about 20 years ago and recently hit 100 donations. That's the equivalent to approximately ten transfusions. 

It feels like climbing is really underway right now, which is strange because the season is over but I was absent for so much of it.  When I look at the grades that I am climbing it seems that not much has changed, but I feel so much more competent and secure on rock now than even a year ago.  This was at Brownie Girl Dome this morning. There’s a lot of varied different movement but one totally unexpected part was a little slightly overhanging traverse. I am trying to master “hips in” to take stress off my fingers, but it doesn’t always apply. Just about the time I was working on “hips in” on a move Bob said the only way to do this sequence was to crank down on my fingers and step on up. 

Tony is heading out for Chicago on Monday and I am just feeling pissy about it. So glad he will spend time with his family – – he’s a family guy and he really needs it. We did not run off to the Justice of the Peace. I’m surprised how easily I am triggered by the thought of death or harm, even though its such a remote possibility.  Getting that phone call is unbearable. I gotta let this be. 

My best friend plans to come stay with me awhile but said she needs a map.  Like a Thomas brothers map? She doesn’t do GPS and she doesn’t own a computer. I just shake my head sometimes. She’s been so incredibly generous with me our whole lives, I guess I have to find her a map.   

Maps are great. Much prefer using them to a GPS—you get the overview with a map, that is much harder to do using a GPS and you don’t have to worry about losing service.

another sunset in the books. 

Came across an old photo today, this seems SO long ago.

Took two people out for their first ever outdoor climb yesterday, it was fun. Then I did the grade 21 I’ve done 22 laps of in a sesh, FELT like a 21 today as I’ve not been on it (or even outside climbing) for weeks. Then went to the ‘normal’ (weights gym) with my brother, bit boring but not too bad. Then today rode my motorcycle an hour each way through the Adelaide hills to a bouldering gym. Did some nice roof problems, flashed two problems at my normal grade and flashed one at my hard (for me) grade; they were all my style, roofs and overhanging. Got up to 140 Km/h on the bike. Sometimes I come inside after riding home and then think ‘wow. I think I need to remember to slow down’.

We have a local guy here, Todd Gordon, nicknamed “the mayor of Joshua tree“ and Joshua Tree is lucky to have him. I finally got over to one of his parties last night. It was in someone’s huge backyard – –but  his parties could be anywhere. it was an all climber band and mostly just climbers were there and I felt 1000% comfortable from the get-go. Music was great. And there’s Todd, tall, tan and making sure everyone knew everyone. And I love that he is a family guy and that he’s got three beautiful teenage sons who he brags on and you only get that when you’re a hands-on parent.

One of the guys I had wanted to meet in person was Dave Evans and the first thing he said to me was “So what’s your thing with Dave Houser?“. So I had to tell him it had become kind of a running gag but that climbing his routes had been a great introduction to Joshua Tree. He said “Dave was one of my heroes. He was at least 10 years older than me and I didn’t get to know him well, but he sort of set the bar.” Really? I mentioned Jan and of course he knew of Jan or maybe knew Jan— what a treat to get to chat.

I haven’t quite figured out the Climbing community – – I don’t know how it is in other parts of the US and in the world. I hope I’m not being presumptuous when I say we just recognize each other. I guess that word “tribe“ is forbidden now, but there is a secret handshake. This place is certainly not all climbers – – it’s mostly people who’ve never even been into the park. But when everyone comes out of the woodwork and gets together, it’s quite something. It truly is home.

We had a place in Northern California called Nevada City and it’s old and quaint and loaded with ancient hippies and therapists – – everyone is some kind of therapist. There are crystal shops and cute little diners, and I kept wondering why I didn’t love it enough to move there.  I just wasn’t ready to put on a tie-dye skirt and wave the peace sign at everyone. It was great last night seeing old climbers and young climbers, and some of us just coming in off the desert sunburned and tired and ready to party. Not locked in the past.

There were several oldsters there who are probably too old to climb, but seriously didn’t make any difference. Todd said these guys were the true elders who put up a ton of FA’s. They’re just more of the pack.

—-

Still no hornworms and now I’m wondering what is wrong with my tomatoes that they don’t merit a visit.  I got the sprayer per Russ’ advice and the BT is on its way. I’m starting to feel offended. These are beautiful huge plants. Why are the horn worms being picky?

Carl, thank you for the reminder about caviar. It’s been recommended to me before (numerous times) as the best natural source of Omega 3’s and K2.  It’s also used for Dry Eye and I’ve got that bad.  Before submitting to the plethora of prescription drugs into the eyes I’m bumping up my Omegas and salmon and taking these.  Not ready to start eating actual caviar yet.  

Dave Evens knew me really well but he got mad at me a few years ago (seems he does that with lots of people) so he would not want to talk about me.  Todd is the BEST.

Jan Mcwrote:

Dave Evens knew me really well but he got mad at me a few years ago (seems he does that with lots of people) so he would not want to talk about me.  Todd is the BEST.

lol... them old ass Spy guys sure are sensitive.  They could all use a bran muffin... but don't tell them this or they will block you on the Face Book. 70 going on 9.  mmmwhahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

the best routes for me are asthetic, have good exposure and are within my ability range.. 

That's a beautiful rock wall Nick. It reminds me of the Bugaboos. Where is it? Or is it another "IwishIcouldtellya?"

It apparently is a secret of some sort. East fork of the rosebud..  some folks in Red Lodge told us to drive by the biker bar and take a right. Go up the canyon and look for the buttress on your right. It has a crack going up it. 

Lori Milaswrote:

I have a little fetish. This whole formation “Cereal Wall” looks creepy and old, crumbling and exciting.  The route Trix 10b/c (righthand spire) is the one I want to climb, I don’t know if anyone has ever climbed it since Bob Gaines put it up in 2003. Anyway, its in shade in the morning so maybe today, or soon, I can give it a go.  I can’t count how many times I’ve pulled off the road to wander over and check it out. 

I’ve been listening to a discussion (Honnolds podcast) on climbing as adventure vs sport/athletics.  How about climbing as beauty, curiosity and art?  What makes the best routes for you? 

I've done it at least once, maybe twice, can't remember for sure.  Pretty fun; on the list for a repeat when we do a Hot Tub/Steve's Canyon day.

Lori Milaswrote:

We have a local guy here, Todd Gordon, nicknamed “the mayor of Joshua tree“ and Joshua Tree is lucky to have him. I finally got over to one of his parties last night. It was in someone’s huge backyard – –but  his parties could be anywhere. it was an all climber band and mostly just climbers were there and I felt 1000% comfortable from the get-go. Music was great. And there’s Todd, tall, tan and making sure everyone knew everyone. And I love that he is a family guy and that he’s got three beautiful teenage sons who he brags on and you only get that when you’re a hands-on parent.

One of the guys I had wanted to meet in person was Dave Evans and the first thing he said to me was “So what’s your thing with Dave Houser?“. So I had to tell him it had become kind of a running gag but that climbing his routes had been a great introduction to Joshua Tree. He said “Dave was one of my heroes. He was at least 10 years older than me and I didn’t get to know him well, but he sort of set the bar.” Really? I mentioned Jan and of course he knew of Jan or maybe knew Jan— what a treat to get to chat.

I haven’t quite figured out the Climbing community – – I don’t know how it is in other parts of the US and in the world. I hope I’m not being presumptuous when I say we just recognize each other. I guess that word “tribe“ is forbidden now, but there is a secret handshake. This place is certainly not all climbers – – it’s mostly people who’ve never even been into the park. But when everyone comes out of the woodwork and gets together, it’s quite something. It truly is home.

We had a place in Northern California called Nevada City and it’s old and quaint and loaded with ancient hippies and therapists – – everyone is some kind of therapist. There are crystal shops and cute little diners, and I kept wondering why I didn’t love it enough to move there.  I just wasn’t ready to put on a tie-dye skirt and wave the peace sign at everyone. It was great last night seeing old climbers and young climbers, and some of us just coming in off the desert sunburned and tired and ready to party. Not locked in the past.

There were several oldsters there who are probably too old to climb, but seriously didn’t make any difference. Todd said these guys were the true elders who put up a ton of FA’s. They’re just more of the pack.

—-

Still no hornworms and now I’m wondering what is wrong with my tomatoes that they don’t merit a visit.  I got the sprayer per Russ’ advice and the BT is on its way. I’m starting to feel offended. These are beautiful huge plants. Why are the horn worms being picky?

Party was super fun, Todd was firing on all cylinders, DE is looking great, hell Big Al was there and Tucker too.  I even saw Tan Slacks briefly.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

the best routes for me are asthetic, have good exposure and are within my ability range.. 

Looks like the Bugs, but a bit like 3rd Pillar of Dana ( its obviously not ).  Sweet looking pitch though.

Murfwrote:

Party was super fun, Todd was firing on all cylinders, DE is looking great, hell Big Al was there and Tucker too.  I even saw Tan Slacks briefly.

Heavens!  You were there too??  #MainEvent

I don't remember the name of it but it is in Montana. east fork of the Rosebud. I hear that the road Washed out. It was about five full pitches. 

Gosh darn Murf. You mean you were there and I didn’t get to meet you? I thought I saw Dan walk by. He lives nearby and once in a while we stop and say hi on the road to his house. I probably didn’t walk up this time because… I had a little, uh.. run in…with his wife sometime ago, and maybe just best to not. I probably completely misread the situation, but it was uncomfortable. 

This morning I took an impulsive little detour on my walk to see what was going on behind the Sentinel. The more I climb the more I see on routes. I just wanted to know what illusion dweller looks like today. I climbed it three or four times a few years ago and can’t say I loved it. I think maybe today it would be more enjoyable. It’s cool and green and beautiful back there right now.

What I really wanted to see was what The Centipede looks like today. My recollection is that after I finished climbing illusion dweller Nelson asked me if I would mind giving him a belay on a route to the right. Sure! Only I couldn’t see a route to the right—all I could see was sheer wall. So when he warned me that he might deck and to stay close, I was just kind of nonplussed watching him hop on that route. He has this way of almost making me forget my job because I’m so slack-jawed watching it unfold. He didn’t deck, and the climbing was beautiful. first bolt looks to be 30 feet off the ground. WTF?  I think that is a nice way of saying “not your route!“ Don’t go there!

So this morning I wanted to see if it still looked as impossible as when Nelson led it. Well… It looks ALMOST impossible. Is there any way I could climb that, ever?  

I feel like if my short climbing career has an arc the next months or year will be the top. I have really enjoyed climbing different rock lately. I am eager to do more crack climbing. But this stuff… This crazy face climbing is just deep into my heart.  It’s where I want to spend my time.

Tony is gone and I was thinking about sleeping outside under the sky.  Embarrassing to say this, my only holdout is the possibility of a run in with a scorpion. Tarantulas and rattlesnakes don’t bother me. But if I set up in a hammock or on a chaise, whats the chance of a visitor?  

EDIT:  Looked up The Centipede.  It’s 11 “D” .  Not A.  Not my route, I guess.  But im sure there will be others. 

Lori hi…. I just returned from City of Rocks. If you like climbing face at Josh- you would go bananas at the City. None of that gritty Josh shit anywhere. Lots of variety from low angle face with “wrinkles” to extra steep on huge jugs and everything in between.  It’s the bomb.
Glad you liked The Gordon experience- before Todd had Kids his home was “The Hang” for International Climbers and traveling American climbers. I took my Daughter there when she was 13-14 several times and she got her eyes opened big time when the “bathroom” photo was taken. Todd is a fun dude, the bathroom door, even when “locked” could be opened from the outside!! A handy Polaroid camera hung on a hook by the door. People would go in, you would give them some time then open the door and get the “shot”! The photo then went on the wall downstairs. Tons of very famous familiar climbers on that wall. I wonder what happened to all those photos?

Good times!

Re: Tomatoes- check out these folks:

https://tomatomania.com/ 

Jan got me into these people, if you want heirlooms and any and all varieties shop them. They also have great advice on care and feeding.

And sleeping out. Go get one of those “Blue tarps” … 8 x10. Toss it on the ground, put Insolite pad or air mattress on it then toss your sleeping bag on top. No need to worry about snakes, or Tarantulas. Scorpions… just check your pants, shoes and any clothes you had lying about while you slept. I know of one, only one, instance of a Scorpion to the scrotum sting.

Later 

“Scorpions… just check your pants, shoes and any clothes you had lying about while you slept. I know of one, only one, instance of a Scorpion to the scrotum sting.”

This is not great comfort. I’m not worried about getting stung on the scrotum, but there are other just as costly items down there. I have heard that scorpions like to crawl into beds. If I were a scorpion and wanted to crawl into someone’s sleeping bag I don’t think an air mattress would stop me. And when we stayed at an Airbnb, Tony saw a large brown “something” laying flat on the tile, and for some reason he didn’t realize it was a scorpion. When he did, he took a stick and poked it whence it rose up, tail in the air and ran under the couch . So I spent the rest of our stay wondering where I was going to bump into that scorpion again.  

I’m so happy everyone is having a great time at COR and I am a little jealous, but not too much. Without sounding whiny, this is my home. I am not nearly tired of it.I feel expansive here. I am so lucky that I can walk out my front door every morning and choose a new spot to hike or explore. There’s a few of my favorite routes that have crappy rock which gets really interesting but there’s also incredibly pure smooth granite such as I was admiring this morning.. When I feel like packing for a long Vacay and have the energy to get in my car and drive 14 hours, I’ll be sure and pick some great spots. But right now I am so totally enjoying summer vacation right here. 

Home in Boulder remembering City. Tribal Boundaries is among my all-time favorite climbs.

Don't know what's happening at City right now, but quite the thunderstorm going on here. With hail.