Is it dumb to go to Yosemite for a month on my own if I can't big wall climb?

logistics to consider

fly into las vegas, buy a cheap car u can lay down and sleep inside and plan to sell it at the end of the trip

go climb at red rock until the yos record snow fall melts out

As Stephen Arsenault said, don’t miss the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock, I think it’s the best moderate route of its length in Yosemite.

The Butt-Shot Whispererwrote:

logistics to consider

fly into las vegas, buy a cheap car u can lay down and sleep inside and plan to sell it at the end of the trip

go climb at red rock until the yos record snow fall melts out

How realistic is that for someone from the UK? Things like registration, inspection, insurance, etc?

Marc801 Cwrote:

How realistic is that -- buy a cheap car u can lay down and sleep inside and plan to sell it at the end of the trip -- for someone from the UK? Things like registration, inspection, insurance, etc?

While it also sounds to me like lots of work, I have indeed met two separate foreign visitors who did just that. I wonder if it was some tip shared among some European climbing communities. When they realize it is a lot of hassle to move around the US without a car and the car rental cost adds up fast for an extended visit, maybe this kind of transaction makes sense. Not sure.

I have friends from Norway who have done this twice to travel in North America. The first time they bought a camper truck and sold it, for more money than they paid, when they left. This time they bought a half built out 20 yo van, finished it in the seller’s garage, and are planning to sell it when they leave. Hard to tell if they will make a profit this time, but it has definitely worked out for them as far as general costs.

I also met a New Zealander a few years back who was camped up at Carson Pass in a truck camper. He was on an Epic (ski) Pass tour and had bought the truck from another kiwi who had the year before flown to North America, bought the truck and on his return left it stored in Seattle. The guy I met bought it sight unseen, flew into Seattle and started his trip there. Seems like international travelers “in the know“ do this with some regularity.

You say that you don't know how to big wall and are considering going to Yosemite, but you're forgetting that Yosemite is a great place to learn how to bigwall!

If you have any interest at all in bigwalling, consider this month an excellent opportunity to learn and teach yourself. With one month you could easily get to the point where you could climb El cap, starting with no big wall experience.

I did the same thing last year, in May. I showed up to the Valley for a month. I had no big wall experience before that (a little bit of easy aid climbing experience, but no overnight climbing experience). I spent much of my month doing excellent long moderate free climbs in a day, both with people I knew and with random partners I met in camp 4/on the internet. At the end of the month I claimed El Cap as my first overnight wall. You can do it too!

Spending that month in Yosemite is one of my most cherished experiences as a climber. I'd highly recommend it. Feel free to reach out to me with any questions about Yosemite.

I think the bigger question is how is Siobhán pronounced Shuh-von?   

As said non-big wall climbing is very abundant. Last time I was there (sadly) was in 98'  got lucky to get into camp 4.  had to camp in tuawalme on days I couldnt get into camp 4. dont know how it is now, but bet its much worse since 98 I'm sure.  but very worth the effort. 

stephen arsenaultwrote:

I'm 77 and have done many walls in Yosemite, and if I was young again, I would repeat the adventure.  I might add since your from the UK that I have many old climbing friends from the Lake District, and I've hung out with John Porter, ( past president of the AC), for over 60 years.  I agree with the bulk of comments already said, and yes, there are enough single and multi-pitch trad climbs to last a lifetime.  If your interested in longer free climbs, there are plenty of those to choose from.  One I always seem to go back to is the NE Buttress of High Cathedral Rock, but going on 78, I probably will stay clear of that, in the future!  Here is a photo of one of the classic pitches:

77 and still going. man u rock. lol  is that high or middle? looks like 9th pitch of middle. 

Dumb nope, but if you dont have a partner u can pick one  up at camp 4 for at times. the question is (for me) is if I can trust a new belayer. I went for 3 months in I think 98/99. plenty of bouldering, plenty of 1-2 pitch climbs. toulame (sp?) has many good 1-2 pitch routes. It's all about trust in a new belayer for me.

Oh and just advertise on the bulletin board for climbing partners

Regarding buying a car as a European. We did it with my partner a few years back and based on that experience, I wouldn't do it just for one month, a bigger roadtrip would be a different thing. That is because you might want to take some time on choosing the car and getting it inspected before you buy it. And if you sell it to a dealer, you´ll get almost nothing out of it -> you have to buy a cheap car to make the business case work.

Of course there is an option to risk it and just buy the first car you find and hope for the best and sell it for nothing. If you do it, its good to find out beforehand, where you can get an insurance as some of the companies dont sell it for foreigners. You´ll also need an address, because the license plates are sent to you after registration, this can take some days but you can use the car in the meantime. Ours never arrived so we ended up driving around without plates for three months. My experience is from 2017 so some things might have changed.

This year we have a trip booked for May in Yosemite so its interesting to hear all the tips and the speculation on which walls will be dry after the snowstorms.

I don't have much to add, other than a month in Yosemite hiking around would be amazing in and of itself, let alone climbing.

Thank you all so much. Your advice is so helpful and your psych is great!! I'm now booked to come out 3rd-30th may, which was a tricky decision with things being all over the place here, but definitely helped by all the wisdom and enthusiasm, really thanks all :D I'm also for sure now staying in a hire car which I'll kit out at whatever budget outdoor shop i find. 

Route suggestions are much appreciated. And if anyone wants to climb or even hike, i would love some partners, am open to whatever :) 

Thanks again!

What grade range would you like route suggestions in? The amount of climbing in the valley is a little absurd, so we need a little help narrowing it down. 

Bobcat crack and the Dawn Wall are most dos for their rating. 

While I haven’t climbed in the Valley in a long time, I can advise you that the climbing style there is likely very different from wherever you climb in the UK. In fact, it is quite different even from most other granite areas and takes some getting used to. As a result, I suggest that you start off a grade or two below your top grades to familiarize yourself with the rock. Areas that I recommend for this purpose include Manure Pile Buttress ( don’t be put off by the name—the ‘pile’ is long gone) for a selection of short, moderate multi-pitch routes and the Church Bowl and Royal Arches areas, near each other and both with shorter routes across a range of grades and styles.

Siobhán Straverwrote:

Route suggestions are much appreciated.

While it's not known for it's sport climbing there is some really fun sport climbing (sport-bolted) in your range of up to 7a+.  Check out Chapel Wall, Sanitation Wall, and the couple of routes at Church Bowl.  Also for a fun adventure the routes at Killer Pillar, a bit father out from the Valley floor (adventure because you rap into those routes). Other places too but off the top of my head, those places have a concentration.

Siobhán Straverwrote:

Route suggestions are much appreciated. 

A reasonable place for a first day to get used to Valley granite, with routes up to 10a (HVS E1 if I translated correctly) might be Church Bowl, because it's trivially easy to find and has a 1 minute approach.  Mostly 1-2 pitch routes. Even the single pitch routes there may need a second rope for rapping.

Uncle Fanny 5.7

Church Bowl Lieback, Black is Brown and the fabulous Bishop's Terrace, all 5.8

Revival 10a, I personally think it's a bit soft for a Valley 10a because there is only one face move at that grade, rest is easier and it's pretty low angle for Valley cracks.

Church Bowl Tree 10a to the first set of bolts, small gear.

Fully bolted is pole position 10a but if you are used to tight bolted it might seem a bit run.   Then Energizer, Bitches Terror and 700 Club, all 5.11 sport routes.

Jacob's Ladder is 10c. Crux down low.   requires some gear to not be runout, but I remember it as face climbing. 

Bishop's Terrace is indeed excellent. Braille Book is an excellent 6 pitch 5.8 on Higher Cathedral Rock, well worth the long steep hike in. Walk to the top of Higher Cathedral after you finish for a spectacular view of El Cap. NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral is quite hard for 5.9, and quite long for a Grade IV, and an excellent route. DNB (Direct North Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Grade V, 5.10b) is another excellent long route, and quite the challenge.

Man this thread has me dreaming for a month in Yosemite!