The race to repeat Burden of Dreams

J T wrote:

Isn’t Burden roadside? Unless by access you are also including the regional location and weather/seasons it can be climbed. I mean people are literally live steaming their sessions on it, can’t be that inaccessible. My impression was that it’s mostly the weather/conditions that aren’t conducive to sending…that and that it’s not near any other good climbing IIRC 

Exactly. Maybe accessibility isn't the right word. 

If I am a top tier boulderer, I bet it's hard to justify the difficulties associated with getting up there for a few move solitary problem when Switzerland is right there with a plenitude of incredible problems and stable conditions. 

Given that you need an Eldo permit now to try Megatron, it might as well be on the moon for most boulderers who probably will sleep in too late or forget what day it is.

Lappnor is 1.5 hours from Helsinki whereas Flatanger is 11 hours (due north) from Oslo. Lots of climbers have gone to Flatanger to test routes and send there and lots of climbers have gone over the years to Lappnor with no sends. I don’t buy accessibility or bad weather for the reasons, it’s likely simply harder. Nalle took how many years to establish it?

Lots of mega lines in Flatanger though, and it is my understanding that there isn't much else over 7C in Lappnor

petzl logic wrote:

Lappnor is 1.5 hours from Helsinki whereas Flatanger is 11 hours (due north) from Oslo. Lots of climbers have gone to Flatanger to test routes and send there and lots of climbers have gone over the years to Lappnor with no sends. I don’t buy accessibility or bad weather for the reasons, it’s likely simply harder.

Be that as it may, that doesn’t  explain why elite climbers are just now trying it in droves (comparatively for a boulder of that difficulty) and have not tried it hardly at all over the previous 6 or so. Obviously I don’t know for sure, but I think the location and weather are far bigger factors than difficulty. This forum leads me to believe it will likely be repeated quicker (in terms of the duration/number of sessions it takes a climber tries the boulder, not from the time of it’s first ascent) than some other V17’s.

I am curious to see how many attempts it took each climber to send each V17, my guess is Burden isn’t an outlier and likely has a similar number of attempts as other V17’s  

 Nalle took how many years to establish it?

4 years, but again, that could very likely be due to location and weather. 

Adam bloc wrote:

Given that you need an Eldo permit now to try Megatron, it might as well be on the moon for most boulderers who probably will sleep in too late or forget what day it is.

LOL. I think it's easier to grab an Uber to Eldo from Boulder than it is to grab a flight to Magic Wood from Boulder.

There's no permit in Eldo though - it's time entry, and that's only May - September, which seems pretty warm for V17.

I’ll make one prediction. If they are all there at or around the time that one of them finally does it, the others will all also climb it in short order.

some of the climbers before this year that have tried:

petrakov

woods

roberts

kameyama 

graham

webb

petzl logic wrote:

some of the climbers before this year that have tried:

petrakov

woods

roberts

kameyama 

graham

webb

Fair point...how many were trying it simultaneously or together like currently is happening?

Tony S wrote:

Trying to get this thread back on track. Both Bosi and Toru have recently said they feel confident enough now and are going to start making send attempts. It's a race?

I find it interesting that people sort of skip over Bosi's 11 sessions on the replica. I hear people say he's making quick work of it. It's interesting.

Also Bosi split both his tips on it last session. 

Bosi did session 4 yesterday  but didn't stream.  It was a quick sesh and he split two tips on his left hand, so min 2 days to farm skin before going back.  He said he won't try it with tape.

Bosi looks WAYYY closer than Toru.  But Shawn is probably just as close to the send, though still in Vegas trying another project last I heard.

Camdon Kay wrote:

I think the point made on the first page about accessibility has a lot to do with this. This has to be the least accessible boulder of the proposed V17s

It's not that inaccessible... it's 1.5 hrs by car from an international airport (Helsinki).  The main problem is the weather... it's very fickle and you can go out there for a week and get zero days of decent conditions.  Will has been pretty fortunate.

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Fair point...how many were trying it simultaneously or together like currently is happening?

It hasn't seen that much serious interest, partly because it's all alone (there aren't a ton of V14-16 boulders nearby like in Swiss) and partly cuz the weather is sucky oftentimes.  But when Sean posted vids of him doing the moves, Bosi got interested, which got Toru psyched (he'd already been out there 3 times before Bosi), so there may be a chain reaction, we'll see!

But I can see how pro climbers would be way more interested in Alphane (in an area with tons of other climbing) or Sleepwalker or even Soudain Seul over Burden.

Oh man after listening to the Jam Crack podcast, I hope Will Bosi gets it, just based on his terrible diet alone, so refreshing compared to all the macro counters.

Dry biscuits for breakfast and lunch, heaps of pasta, a disgusting amount of parmisan cheese, occasional Scottish deep fried crap.

"I don't really drink alcohol...unless it's like a party, then I'll drink a lot"

Good enough for V17

Sam M wrote:

Oh man after listening to the Jam Crack podcast, I hope Will Bosi gets it, just based on his terrible diet alone, so refreshing compared to all the macro counters.

Dry biscuits for breakfast and lunch, heaps of pasta, a disgusting amount of parmisan cheese, occasional Scottish deep fried crap.

"I don't really drink alcohol...unless it's like a party, then I'll drink a lot"

Good enough for V17

I think it’s just called being young. Kids these days are just mutants. Something in the Cheetos.

Sam M wrote:

Oh man after listening to the Jam Crack podcast, I hope Will Bosi gets it, just based on his terrible diet alone, so refreshing compared to all the macro counters.

Dry biscuits for breakfast and lunch, heaps of pasta, a disgusting amount of parmisan cheese, occasional Scottish deep fried crap.

"I don't really drink alcohol...unless it's like a party, then I'll drink a lot"

Good enough for V17

Dave Macleod in shambles. 

Tony S wrote:

Dave Macleod in shambles. 

The first few years are much different than the next few decades.

I just think it's interesting that probably the two biggest prizes available in climbing in 2023 are repeats of a 7 year old boulder problem and a 6 year old sport route.

Aaron K wrote:

I just think it's interesting that probably the two biggest prizes available in climbing in 2023 are repeats of a 7 year old boulder problem and a 6 year old sport route.

I think it's great though. Shows how respectful, humble and conservative the climbers at the top are being.

They're also (apparently) sharing a lot, collaborating, and documenting publicly. Closed projects are more and more a thing of the past. I doubt we'll see any of the old murky controversies like Akira, Shadowplay etc. where it's unclear how or what was actually climbed.

Aaron K wrote:

I just think it's interesting that probably the two biggest prizes available in climbing in 2023 are repeats of a 7 year old boulder problem and a 6 year old sport route.

Don't forget Janja trying to do La Dura Dura before it melted off or Jana trying, 

https://www.climbing.com/news/first-woman-to-send-v16-matt-fultz-repeats-v16/

Session 6 update. Will Bosi is now wearing a right shoe on his left foot.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CqYMxAFrnhY/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=