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The race to repeat Burden of Dreams

Andrew Bowman · · Waxhaw, NC · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 15

I can’t wait for someone to repeat it so I can hear about how hard they think it is. Maybe it’s way out of the way or maybe it is actually V17/18. Hasn’t every hard boulderer of like the last 15 years been on it now without a repeat yet?

Edit: Just watched some of Will’s video, dude is nuts, he definitely makes it look like it will go down. Really cool close up shots of the holds too.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
Adam Slattery wrote:

So standards and test pieces don’t exist anymore? Got it 

You heard of the Nose? Silence? Meltdown? Flex Luthor? Ringing any bells on long gaps before repeats but with similarly graded routes popping up before?

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 25
John Clark wrote:

You heard of the Nose? Silence? Meltdown? Flex Luthor? Ringing any bells on long gaps before repeats but with similarly graded routes popping up before?

No because I’m only old enough to hate on my peers but not actually know my own history 

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194

Will's 2nd sess is up.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_a5vfvVmJk&ab_channel=WilliamBosi

Some decent links!  

Will seems like such a genuine and kind person.  Really hope he gets it!

Yuri Rodea · · Long Beach · Joined May 2018 · Points: 46
Adam Slattery wrote:

So standards and test pieces don’t exist anymore? Got it 

Are you purposely daft? 

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 25
Yuri Rodea wrote:

Are you purposely daft? 

Yeah I mean I did choose to get vaxxed so

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 25

While I understand sometimes grades jump letters and Jim Holloway put up V12 before V11 blah blah blah. What I’m getting at is I call bull shit and malarkey on the idea of it. Jumping grades is dumb. Defending it is also dumb. Holloway wasn’t playing the grade game dude was just a crusher. Same with Gill. Acting with the knowledge that you haven’t sent a climb at a grade and then attempting to establish a climb at said grade smells fishy to me. 

Eric Marx · · LI, NY · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 67
Adam Slattery wrote:

While I understand sometimes grades jump letters and Jim Holloway put up V12 before V11 blah blah blah. What I’m getting at is I call bull shit and malarkey on the idea of it. Jumping grades is dumb. Defending it is also dumb. Holloway wasn’t playing the grade game dude was just a crusher. Same with Gill. Acting with the knowledge that you haven’t sent a climb at a grade and then attempting to establish a climb at said grade smells fishy to me. 

Seems silly to me, but as usual, I never know if anybody on MP is trolling, even myself sometimes. By this logic, nobody would be able to establish any higher grades or any grading system at all as nobody would have been qualified to even begin the process.

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 25
Eric Marx wrote:

Seems silly to me, but as usual, I never know if anybody on MP is trolling, even myself sometimes. By this logic, nobody would be able to establish any higher grades or any grading system at all as nobody would have been qualified to even begin the process.

I think you know that’s not what I meant 

Eric Marx · · LI, NY · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 67

I’m not sure how else you could mean it, somebody with a large base of experience climbing v5 could obviously tell when a climb is v6, and so on up the chain, even if that includes jumping grades, by accident or by design.

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Adam Slattery wrote:

I think you know that’s not what I meant 

I’m not exactly sure what you meant either…nobody skipped a grade. All the climbers trying Burden have climbed at least one V16 (most have climbed V17 as well) therefore, not skipping a grade…you should have had this quarrel when Burden was first put up, but it’s now proving to warrant the grade 

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 25
Not Not MP Admin wrote:

I’m not exactly sure what you meant either…nobody skipped a grade. All the climbers trying Burden have climbed at least one V16 (most have climbed V17 as well) therefore, not skipping a grade…you should have had this quarrel when Burden was first put up, but it’s now proving to warrant the grade 

Fuck maybe I don’t know what I mean!!!! Cuz when you put it like that yeah you right. Am I the problem? 

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Adam Slattery wrote:

Fuck maybe I don’t know what I mean!!!! Cuz when you put it like that yeah you right. Am I the problem? 

It’s either you or the booze…

AJ Washkwich · · Milford, NJ · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Good to see everyone here is having fun pissing in the wind, arguing about nothing.

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
AJ Washkwich wrote:

Good to see everyone here is having fun pissing in the wind, arguing about nothing.

I see you found yourself with nothing better to do as well…Welcome! 

Tony S · · Minnesota · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 378

Trying to get this thread back on track. Both Bosi and Toru have recently said they feel confident enough now and are going to start making send attempts. It's a race?

I find it interesting that people sort of skip over Bosi's 11 sessions on the replica. I hear people say he's making quick work of it. It's interesting.

Also Bosi split both his tips on it last session. 

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

i also think it’s odd that there are now a handful of v17s without a repeat of the original one, and some of those new ones have also been repeated (and quickly), no? the way burden has repelled the strongest climbers perhaps it really is an 18 or the other climbs at the same level suffer from some grade inflation. 

i’ll be stoked to see someone get a repeat but i guess it would also be cool to watch no one get it so we can do it again next year with even more climbers. 

AJ Washkwich · · Milford, NJ · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Tony S wrote:

Trying to get this thread back on track. Both Bosi and Toru have recently said they feel confident enough now and are going to start making send attempts. It's a race?

I find it interesting that people sort of skip over Bosi's 11 sessions on the replica. I hear people say he's making quick work of it. It's interesting.

Also Bosi split both his tips on it last session. 

Pretty crazy also to imagine what Bosi/Roberts will accomplish by the time they’re as old as someone like Dave Graham…

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 3,705
petzl logic wrote:

i also think it’s odd that there are now a handful of v17s without a repeat of the original one, and some of those new ones have also been repeated (and quickly), no? the way burden has repelled the strongest climbers perhaps it really is an 18 or the other climbs at the same level suffer from some grade inflation. 

i’ll be stoked to see someone get a repeat but i guess it would also be cool to watch no one get it so we can do it again next year with even more climbers. 

I think the point made on the first page about accessibility has a lot to do with this. This has to be the least accessible boulder of the proposed V17s

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

I've only seen Will's first three sessions, is there more?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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