How to know if sandstone is climbable

I’ve been climbing for a couple years now around my local area (Pacific Northwest), and there’s a few good climbs in the mountains and one or two small crags near the ocean (sandstone), basically we don’t have a ton of options unless you derive atleast an hour and a half away. But as I drive around my town I’ve noticed 4 or 5 solid enough looking sandstone cliffs that don’t look like they’ve ever been touched by a climber, and I can’t totally understand why. The sandstone on these cliffs seems to be about the same as the climbing spots that are established nearby on sandstone. I would think in an area like this where there’s a lot of climbers and mountains, that most of the decent cliffs would have some established routes. I plan to top rope off some trees on a couple of them and check out the rock but I scant seem to find anything online about if there’s a clear way to know if a certain sandstone is climbable. Is it as simple as if it feels strong you’re ok? Or are some sandstones deceptively dangerous while others are perfectly safe? Or is it just that the sandstone is fine here and there aren’t any really dedicated route setters around here willing to try out new stuff? Just curious, thanks 

 I would say check onX or something like that and make sure they’re public land then top rope and see plenty of choss can be deceiving both positively or negatively 

Rock is rock. If you climb it and you enjoy it and it doesn't crumble in your hands then climb that shit. Part of the development process is gauging the quality of the whole route. You want to clear any dangerous stuff on rappell so you don't pull it off while you're climbing.

Are there solid trees above it? If so, drop a line down and do some TR soloing and/or top-roping and see how it goes. 

There's some good sandstone climbing around Bellingham, if that is where you are at you may be surprised that the cliffs have already been developed. 

Scott Dwrote:

Are there solid trees above it? If so, drop a line down and do some TR soloing and/or top-roping and see how it goes. 

There's some good sandstone climbing around Bellingham, if that is where you are at you may be surprised that the cliffs have already been developed. 

Came here to say this, about Bellingham! 

The only true way to tell if the sandstone is climbable is by taste. Smell does not yield the accuracy of taste. You must taste the rock

Honestly, lost ledge is way better than most of the sandstone cliffs around Bellingham, and I don't even like to boulder. But if you enjoy toproping go for it! There's usually a big enough tree nearby to use with some static rope. Just make sure it's dry enough that you're not ripping off holds! Also that you're not trespassing/have permission to use the land. If there are big loose blocks, you'll know, but most of the stuff around here doesn't form like that. 

I'd say that there isn't much development because there are much higher quality alternatives within a 2 hour drive, and it's so wet here that the reliable season overlaps with so many other crags.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

I will DM you but no one on mountain project will be of any help

“No one on mountain project will be of any help,” except for Mr. Princess! Good thing y’all linked up on mountain project!

Thanks for all the replies, that’s kind of what I’m thinking, I’ll just top rope solo down from above and mess around. I’m not an experienced route setter so I can’t tell wether it’s worth putting routes i these cliffs. But when you’re standing at the bottom of an 80ft cliff that’s untouched and has lots of great features it’s hard not to want to try and climb it. 

Bryce Willsonwrote:

Thanks for all the replies, that’s kind of what I’m thinking, I’ll just top rope solo down from above and mess around. I’m not an experienced route setter so I can’t tell wether it’s worth putting routes i these cliffs. But when you’re standing at the bottom of an 80ft cliff that’s untouched and has lots of great features it’s hard not to want to try and climb it. 

It’s not “route setting”, that’s what happens at gyms. This is “developing”.

Developing is for those with extensive experience in climbing. Find a mentor before you touch this wall. Anything you do here is permanent and people’s lives depend on the hardware installed.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

I will DM you but no one on mountain project will be of any help

I doubt a troll like you will be of much help.  

As for the OP's question . . .

Sandstone can be a tricky rock.  There are several types that can all have very different characteristics relating to it being 'safe' to climb.  Without knowing the type of sandstone any advice here regarding the safety / stability of the rock would be a guess at best.  I'd recommend that you speak with other local, experienced climbers before you try and do anything on or with this cliff.  

Chad Millerwrote:

I doubt a troll like you will be of much help.  

 

Good thing you edited your post, otherwise you might come off as a dick.

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

... it doesn't crumble in your hands then climb that shit. Part of the development process is gauging the quality ... 

Scotty D wrote: Are there solid trees above it?

Chad Miller wrote: Sandstone can be a tricky rock. There are several types that can all have very different characteristics relating to it being 'safe' to climb.

Why all these limitations? Is the climbing community turning into a "nanny state"? Go climb at Fisher Towers. Go do some desert towers. You'll soon get a different perspective on what is "climbable". Heck, I've even heard about people climbing in chossfests like Eldo. It just takes a different mindset (and a good helmet).

Patrikwrote:

Why all these limitations? Is the climbing community turning into a "nanny state"? Go climb at Fisher Towers. Go do some desert towers. You'll soon get a different perspective on what is "climbable". Heck, I've even heard about people climbing in chossfests like Eldo. It just takes a different mindset (and a good helmet).

I know a lot of road cut that looks great too, not to mention those sick scree slopes underneath them that prove an inspiring approach.

Beauty of an edit job too, btw. If you knew anything about me, you'd know I'd never tell anyone not to climb something if they're having fun with it.  

Patrikwrote:

Why all these limitations? Is the climbing community turning into a "nanny state"? Go climb at Fisher Towers. Go do some desert towers. You'll soon get a different perspective on what is "climbable". Heck, I've even heard about people climbing in chossfests like Eldo. It just takes a different mindset (and a good helmet).

Because noobs developing choss is dangerous. Climbing established routes is a different matter.

Patrikwrote:

Why all these limitations? Is the climbing community turning into a "nanny state"? Go climb at Fisher Towers. Go do some desert towers. You'll soon get a different perspective on what is "climbable". Heck, I've even heard about people climbing in chossfests like Eldo. It just takes a different mindset (and a good helmet).

I’ve climbed at Fishers. I’ve done a dozen routes on half a dozen desert towers. I cut my teeth learning to climb lakeside choss in Minnesota.

It’s not a nanny state thing.  It’s not about what’s considered climbable. It’s about having a noob gain some real world experience and maybe a local mentor before trying to develop a random sandstone cliff that we know nothing about. 

Tradibanwrote:

It’s not “route setting”, that’s what happens at gyms. This is “developing”.

Developing is for those with extensive experience in climbing. Find a mentor before you touch this wall. Anything you do here is permanent and people’s lives depend on the hardware installed.

Lighten up Francis

Since I’m being called a “newb” at this point, I just want to go back and clarify to everyone that I never mentioned doing any developing on new rock. I’m not stupid, would never just start sticking bolts in some loose rock to see what happens. I was just curious if there was any straight forward ways of knowing whether a sandstone cliff could even be climbed. I have no plans to do any developing, just looking for some new rocks to explore. Thanks for any help from those who provided it. 

Chad Millerwrote:

 maybe a local mentor before trying to develop a random sandstone cliff that we know nothing about. 

hm wonder who that guy could be. 

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

hm wonder who that guy could be. 

If it’s you the op should find someone else. 

Chad Millerwrote:

If it’s you the op should find someone else. 

Couldn’t agree more!!! If you think I am a psycho on here, people keep thinking I’m joking when I tell them developing with me is like getting water boarded!