Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE

Luke Bertelsenwrote:

Jim, as I mentioned, I have not seen any any failures with this method as I have not seen it used.  I have always moved the new bolt to a practical location and masked the area when I could not extract a bolt.  I'm simply not willing to jump on board at this point.  This method seems to really stress solving a cosmetic problem and leaves a lot of variables unknown regardless of all of the testing data you are getting at a moment in time.  Using an old bolt, that we want to replace and no longer trust in the climbing system, as a bonding surface doesn't make a lot of sense to me.

It isn't solving an aesthetic problem, installing a new bolt distanced from the old one is changing the clipping position, potentially moving into an area of less sound rock  and changing the original intention of the first installer.

If you install at a distance and adequately camoflague the old bolt the next person may well install their bolt right by the old remnants, thus coming back to our original proposition, is it okay to plant one bolt beside/above an old one? I've actually placed four bolts above, below and to each side of an empty hole and it works fine.

You are confused, using the remnants of an old bolt as a bonding surface is perfectly fine, in fact almost certainly better than in a virgin hole (and I tested this as well). The question was what happens when, decades in the future, the old bolt has completely corroded away. This has been shown to be of no consequence.

Part of the reason I started testing this was the claim by the titanium bolt fans who said that using (erroneously) that replacing bolts with the common 2X depth spacing means one soon runs out of rock, this is advertising not fact.

Good discussion. I also placed a glue in right above an old stud bolt recently, and thought - hmmm - I wonder what the bolt geeks would say about that?

Plus photo of some beautiful hardware...

Mr Rogerswrote:

Thats some very nice epoxy management there! Bravo.
But god I hate RE500 aesthetics. When there are so many not bright red options, I'm always curious to why folks choose RE.

Thanks. I don't love the red either, even though it will fade to a dull pink over the years. And the Dewalt PE1000+ (similar color to Dewalt Pure110+) I've seen other developers use here is even a brighter red, and stays red for a much longer time.

I live in Taiwan, not in USA right now. What I have available here locally (or can order online at a reasonable price) differs that what I could get back in the States. I have a budget I set aside for developing. Safety and quality come first, second is adequate aesthetics for how the epoxy looks, third is epoxy color. 

I've explained my reason somewhat in this post for why I use RE500:  mountainproject.com/forum/t… I get can get Hilti's purple RE100 for the equivalent of $17 USD, and the red RE500 for $20 USD. I'm gonna spend the little extra money for superior performing epoxy even though the color is less than ideal. 

I can't get the grey Liquid Roc 500+ and Dewalt AC100+ where I live, and G&B's grey Gebofix EPO Plus Epoxy Adhesive will cost me 2 1/2 times more than what I'm already paying for Hilti RE500. Nor have I found any other pure epoxies (which I prefer using) in the color grey locally yet, yet I'm still looking around.

In fact there's even locally manufactured pure anchor adehesive epoxies I can buy here in Taiwan in a variety of colors and performance types, but they lack the additional international testing and reputation. I'm not ready to go down that road yet.

And frankly, a majority of the local climbers where I live simply don't care about appearance of red expoxy. Hilti RE500 was used on hundreds of our seaside titanium/SS316 glue-in bolts. Heck, even the old chopped galvanized and 304 bolts are still visible in the seaside crags, are not patched, and some are bleeding onto the surface of the rock. So yeah, there's that.

Updated 2 sets of anchors today with my friend Kevin at Argo Rock, Rocks of Sharon, WA. Used SS Fixe Chains with Alpine Rings and 1/2“x6“ 316 SS bolts. 

Right anchor hole reused, second bolt moved to a better location on the other side of it. Thank you ASCA and ASCA donors for the SS hardware!

Fixe glue ins @ city of rocks. This anchor was adjusted slightly down and right of the previous for a clean lower into space, where before your rope dragged over the sharp patina. 

Drew Neviuswrote:

Right anchor hole reused, second bolt moved to a better location on the other side of it. Thank you ASCA and ASCA donors for the SS hardware!

Are those US Stainless 3/8" 316 carabiners painted black?  I use those on some of my routes, it'd be nice to know that's what ASCA is handing out.  Any tips on what paint works best?

bmdhackswrote:

Are those US Stainless 3/8" 316 carabiners painted black?  I use those on some of my routes, it'd be nice to know that's what ASCA is handing out.  Any tips on what paint works best?

Yep, we use mostly Climbtech anchor hooks, but we're out. We supply those 316 hooks for low traffic routes in wet areas (except seaside, then it's titanium bolts and ram's horns).

Greg, does ASCA buy out all the climb tech (mussy) hooks as soon as they are in stock? Perhaps ASCA preorders them?

I been looking for mussys for a while and they never seem to be in stock anymore. 

Do you have any recommendations of how to purchase mussy hooks? (contacts at climb tech, minimum bulk order quantity?)

Would have piggybacked on a different thread but the forum search function is broke with new MP update.

Shawn Swrote:

Greg, does ASCA buy out all the climb tech (mussy) hooks as soon as they are in stock? Perhaps ASCA preorders them?

I been looking for mussys for a while and they never seem to be in stock anymore. 

Do you have any recommendations of how to purchase mussy hooks? (contacts at climb tech, minimum bulk order quantity?)

No, we buy large quantities but Climbtech doesn't sell all of them to us. The latest large batch is just coming through QC and apparently should be available very soon. Their website has been having major issues but seems to be functional now.

There have been major supply chain issues for a couple years now.

Thanks for the Details Greg, I'll keep my eyes glued to their site for when they come in. 

Shawn Swrote:

Thanks for the Details Greg, I'll keep my eyes glued to their site for when they come in. 

https://www.team-tough.com/12-mm-closed-eye-wire-gate-carabiners

For lower-offs I like these better than the climbtech musseys. Cleaner in appearance and less bulk.I would use either one but given the choice I’m going with team tough, did I mention they’re in stock?. While I’m at it I’ll just go ahead and say that TT glue ins are superior to wave bolts.

Hey B Rad, Thanks for the suggestion. I just bought the same clips (10mm not 12mm though) and a bundle of quick links off US stainless for a good bit cheaper.

US Stainless 10mm Lower Offs, US Stainless 5/16 Quick Links

Those are some beautiful twist bolts, I like em a little more than waves too.

Shawn Swrote:

Hey B Rad, Thanks for the suggestion. I just bought the same clips (10mm not 12mm though) and a bundle of quick links off US stainless for a good bit cheaper.

US Stainless 10mm Lower Offs, US Stainless 5/16 Quick Links

Those are some beautiful twist bolts, I like em a little more than waves too.

Those 10mm lower offs from US Stainless are great, I have been using them on all new routes and replacing old anchors with them.  I try and use them only on low use routes and areas due to less material than a true Mussy.

Kevin Mokracekwrote:

 I try and use them only on low use routes and areas due to less material than a true Mussy.

I'd do the same if i could get my hand on some mussys!

I was pumped to see how close the camo job matched on this placement. Another route rebolted thanks to the ASCA!

Converting a horizontal anchor to be a single point lower off (that sees the wear and tear) open system.

Bolts and mallions are SS316, while the rest of the intended replaceable hardware is of the less expensive 304. (Not that this forested crag has much worrisome corrosion issues other than just rain and humidity).

^^^^

I'm interested to hear the idea behind the double carabiners on the right anchor, making for three total capture points for the rope.

Why?