Great deals on bolts, hangers, and other hardware

Thanks for the info Jim. Appreciated.
$2.30 for the pingo seems like a descent deal to be sure.

I really do like the SimPles edit:PinGos(100% confused the two) though as they dont chew up hard goods that are clipped to them with that rounded clip point.

That is a good price on the PinGo.

Mr Rogers wrote:

Thanks for the info Jim. Appreciated.
$2.30 for the pingo seems like a descent deal to be sure.

I really do like the SimPles though as they dont chew up hard goods that are clipped to them with that rounded clip point. 

I think you have pingos and simples confused.  I was surprised the pingos were cheaper myself

Yes, these high quality lightweight SS 304 rope and carabiner friendly bolt hangers are basically priced according to how much metal they are made from. Hence, the PinGos are the least expensive of the three, only accommodate a 3/8” (10mm) hole and seem to have evolved into the Standard for the Bonier line. 

Interested in ordering some PinGos and a couple Duplas.  Do you know what the PinGos weigh in at per hanger?

Brian R wrote:

Interested in ordering some PinGos and a couple Duplas.  Do you know what the PinGos weigh in at per hanger?

I measured 42-43 grams each

Pinche Gringo wrote:

James Garrett, is there a website we purchase these through or is it direct through you?

I just messaged him through mountain project and follow up through email.  He prefers payment via zelle and made me a purchase order with the title of his climbing guide book "Utah's West Desert", it was pretty legit!

He told me that he knows the owner of the company and is selling these hangers at/ below his cost because he believes in them.  I installed a couple this weekend and believe in them, too!  

I used a dupla at the top and a pingo below it at 60 degrees (per the Pingo installation instructions), so you can run the rope through both and lower off.  I found that you need to have the dupla vertically positioned or in a slight overhang to get the rope to run over the smooth portion of the hanger.  This would be less of a concern if you're just using Pingos, but the Dupla is beefier and allows for 3 different clipping points, which is nice when cleaning the anchors

Jim Day wrote:

I used a dupla at the top and a pingo below it at 60 degrees (per the Pingo installation instructions), so you can run the rope through both and lower off

Are you threading directly through the hangers for a lower off anchor? There is very little metal on those hangers so they don't make sense as a lower off. they will wear out and become sketchy quickly if they are being lowered on. But for a low cost fully stainless rappel/belay anchor, especially on big multi pitches, that set up is awesome 

Here is how I have used them on multi pitches where the anchors will only be used for belaying and rappelling. I have placed a few hundred of these hangers over the last couple of years and haven't had any issues with them at all 

Any gringos know where I can get some quality culeros?

Scoot Bank wrote:

Are you threading directly through the hangers for a lower off anchor? There is very little metal on those hangers so they don't make sense as a lower off. they will wear out and become sketchy quickly if they are being lowered on. But for a low cost fully stainless rappel/belay anchor, especially on big multi pitches, that set up is awesome 

Here is how I have used them on multi pitches where the anchors will only be used for belaying and rappelling. I have placed a few hundred of these hangers over the last couple of years and haven't had any issues with them at all 

Yes but my climbs are short single pitch and see very low traffic currently, this particular area isn't even on mountain project so it's likely nobody will use this climb except me and a few friends.  If that changes, I'll add hooks in the future.

I did the configuration in your last picture.  

Reminds me of the Metolious Rap hangers Im trying to eradicate from our local crags.

The Morse-Bradys wrote:

Reminds me of the Metolious Rap hangers Im trying to eradicate from our local crags.

They are better for sure. I use the pingos as normal hangers essentially but they might be great for some alpine routes so you don’t have to carry chain. James sold me some a couple months back. Super quick and a quality product.

The Morse-Bradys wrote:

Reminds me of the Metolious Rap hangers Im trying to eradicate from our local crags.

What's your beef with the metolious rappel hangers? Besides not being stainless 

Jim Day wrote:

What's your beef with the metolious rappel hangers? Besides not being stainless 

I like those. The clipping area is really big and easily accommodates a rope plus carabiner. However, I must say that pulling a rope through with a carabiner in the same spot does add drag; sometimes quite a bit.

It’s also not quite as easy to replace. 

Jim Day wrote:

I measured 42-43 grams each

Thank you Jim Day for the weight measurement.

Is there any reason not to go with the PinGos over the Simples?

edit: spelling

This is tangential to this thread but I didn't want to start a new one: anyone know where to find great deals on tools for rebolting work? I used to have a second-hand tool store nearby where you can get wrenches, taps, the like for pennies but have unfortunately moved away. Seattle doesn't seem to have something similar - anyone have pro tips? Trawling craigslist/facebook is time consuming and I'd rather not give Jeff my money.

Big Red wrote:

This is tangential to this thread but I didn't want to start a new one: anyone know where to find great deals on tools for rebolting work? I used to have a second-hand tool store nearby where you can get wrenches, taps, the like for pennies but have unfortunately moved away. Seattle doesn't seem to have something similar - anyone have pro tips? Trawling craigslist/facebook is time consuming and I'd rather not give Jeff my money.

I do not know but would like to add that if anyone in the Seattle area has a bolt remover tool that would be nice.

Big Red wrote:

This is tangential to this thread but I didn't want to start a new one: anyone know where to find great deals on tools for rebolting work? I used to have a second-hand tool store nearby where you can get wrenches, taps, the like for pennies but have unfortunately moved away. Seattle doesn't seem to have something similar - anyone have pro tips? Trawling craigslist/facebook is time consuming and I'd rather not give Jeff my money.

Walter will give you everything you need if you get a warp grant. We are mostly drilling out sleeves here so we don’t even need any tools for the 5 pieces. The world wall 2 bolts are hopeless. I think there might be more wedges in index but if I can’t get a wedge out in 10 min, I just try to patch the old bolt with glue for the glue in.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Walter will give you everything you need if you get a warp grant. We are mostly drilling out sleeves here so we don’t even need any tools for the 5 pieces. The world wall 2 bolts are hopeless. I think there might be more wedges in index but if I can’t get a wedge out in 10 min, I just try to patch the old bolt with glue for the glue in.

True but I'd like to have my own set, unless he's handing out all the tools to keep. 

Evan, I've got a hurley jr in Seattle. Dm me if you need

The two big reasons I can imagine to choose the SimPles Bonier hanger over the PinGo:

1. The SimPle Hanger has a bigger "eye" and can easily accommodate more carabiners at the same time.

2. The SimPles are available in 3/8" (10mm) hole as well as 1/2" (12mm) hole size. PinGo is 3/8" only.

Both are otherwise great, light weight, and practical SS Hangers. 

Alec Baker wrote:

Are you using anything special or just an sds bit?

Obviously pull out the bolt and hanger, then a the four prong 1/2 inch bit on a 3/8ths hole seems to be the best combo. Use a magnet to pick out the remnants. It is important to have enough drill batteries, one of my batteries normally gets me 8-10 holes and generally with 3 batteries I can rebolt 10 holes in a day with notched glue ins. This doesn't work very well on sleeves in good condition. But if its rusty seems to be 4 times faster than taping the hole. If the hole is wet I have had zero luck tapping it, but maybe I am just bad at tapping.