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Best multi-pitch 5.4 to 5.5 in the world to take my son on?

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 29

I like these threads because it gets me searching for suggestions.  

If you stick to the US,  Tenaya Peak would be a pretty good choice for location, scenery and ease of approach.  Maybe a bit cold and if there is early snow, the Park Service could close the road up to Tuolumne.

For late October, maybe Spain or some other Mediterranean climate location
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114253101/via-de-ladria
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108190786/sol-solet

Richie & Oprah · · Cornellà de Llobregat, Cata… · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Mike Soucy wrote: You should ask him where he would be psyched to climb

Best answer so far.

Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5
Richie & Oprah wrote:

Best answer so far.

Agreed. If this 5 year old is too dumb to know about the Dolomites, he doesn’t deserve to go. If a man is old enough to not want crust on his peanut butter sandwich, he’s old enough to know about climbing destinations all around the world, and what makes them unique, and will make them a good fit for him, and what makes them safe, and easy to get to, and they should be on board with their father’s schedule and budget as well. 

If you want to climb the mountain from Hotel Transylvania 3, that’s actually doable. And technically there is a movie set for Harry Potter, if he decides he wants to builder on the Hogwarts castle.
Richie & Oprah · · Cornellà de Llobregat, Cata… · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Maurice Chaunders wrote:

Agreed. If this 5 year old is too dumb to know about the Dolomites, he doesn’t deserve to go. If a man is old enough to not want crust on his peanut butter sandwich, he’s old enough to know about climbing destinations all around the world, and what makes them unique, and will make them a good fit for him, and what makes them safe, and easy to get to, and they should be on board with their father’s schedule and budget as well. 

If you want to climb the mountain from Hotel Transylvania 3, that’s actually doable. And technically there is a movie set for Harry Potter, if he decides he wants to builder on the Hogwarts castle.

When you have kids you will understand.

If you already have kids ....  well, condolences to those kids.

Andrew Rational · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 10
Graham Johnson wrote: It seems like a lot of these suggestions are missing the late October part of the equation. My suggestion would be the Bard at Arapiles (Australia). Long, easy, trad. Cool spot and thanks to it’s antipodean location it will be springtime there and not mid-autumn. mountainproject.com/route/1…

I was going to suggest Syrinx, at Arapiles, because of the season. 

Scott Doering · · The Gunks · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 820

I guess now you know why he lives in Colorado Springs and doesn’t know of a 5.4 - 5.5 to climb

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

You revived a three year old thread to say that?

ubu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 10
Scott Doering · · The Gunks · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 820
christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306
Marc801 Cwrote:

You revived a three year old thread to say that?

You should try some DMT to mellow your mind out a bit.

Scott Doering · · The Gunks · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 820
christoph benellswrote:

You should try some DMT to mellow your mind out a bit.

The level of stupid fucking bullshit I saw recently has me TWEAKED

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Steve Gwrote: Mt. Moran's CMC route in the Tetons is a great option! It's a 5 pitch 5.5 route with an awesome approach and little to no crowds, making permits super easy to get without reservations.

The approach includes a canoe to the approach trail, then you hike up to base camp, one of the most beautiful campsites I've ever stayed at - overlooking Jackson Lake and the Grand Teton. Day 2 you hike just a bit further and do a short rappel onto the climb. At this point you're surrounded by two horns that look like the gates to Mt. Moran with a large glacier below. The climbing is super mellow and a choose your own adventure style. There's a massive black dike unlike anything I've ever seen before.

Check out the route photos and you'll quickly get an idea of how jaw dropping this route is.

Well, the time for the climb has passed, but just for posterity, the CMC in October with a 5 year-old is effin' crazy!  (The CMC is a lovely route for a stronger party.)


Think about how something like this would have worked out with but a single adult...https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214894/Stranded-Off-Route-Benighted And that's in August. By October, nighttime temps would be below freezing.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
rgoldwrote:

Well, the time for the climb has passed, but just for posterity, the CMC in October with a 5 year-old is effin' crazy!  (The CMC is a lovely route for a stronger party.)


Think about how something like this would have worked out with but a single adult...https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214894/Stranded-Off-Route-Benighted. And that's in August. By October, nighttime temps would be below freezing.

Corrected link: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214894/Stranded-Off-Route-Benighted

There’s an extraneous period at the end of the original link. 

Scott Doering · · The Gunks · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 820
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

Vía Cepeda (Picu Urriellu aka Naranjo de Bulnes, Asturias, Spain). 

8 pitches: III+,IV+,IV,V,IV,III,IV+,VI/A1

Climbing report (Spanish):

https://atrochando.com/ascensiones-a-montanas/urriellu-por-la-via-cepeda/

A very iconic peak and Cepeda is a great route to get a good overall feeling of the wall.

rockhard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 75
giraud bwrote:

Vía Cepeda (Picu Urriellu aka Naranjo de Bulnes, Asturias, Spain). 

8 pitches: III+,IV+,IV,V,IV,III,IV+,VI/A1

Climbing report (Spanish):

https://atrochando.com/ascensiones-a-montanas/urriellu-por-la-via-cepeda/

A very iconic peak and Cepeda is a great route to get a good overall feeling of the wall.

I believe a "V" here is Spanish grades so this actually a 5.9...not a 5.5 to take a son on.  Looks rad regardless 

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175
rockhardwrote:

..not a 5.5 to take a son on.  Looks rad regardless 

Maybe he could teach the kid to jumar those sections.

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
rockhardwrote:

I believe a "V" here is Spanish grades so this actually a 5.9...not a 5.5 to take a son on.  Looks rad regardless 

No, they are UIAA grades. In Spain they use the French grading only in SPORT CLIMBING.

Please refer to for quick grade conversions:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
ddriverwrote:

Maybe he could teach the kid to jumar those sections.

It's a very easy and enjoyable climb. The last pitch has the crux graded 6a in the French system. It's a bit washed out but there are two solid bolts in place with runners one can use to do an A1 aid move (using both feet) if one can't manage to climb it free (6a/5.10a). Nothing really complicated.

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
giraud bwrote:

Vía Cepeda (Picu Urriellu aka Naranjo de Bulnes, Asturias, Spain). 

8 pitches: III+,IV+,IV,V,IV,III,IV+,VI/A1

Climbing report (Spanish):

https://atrochando.com/ascensiones-a-montanas/urriellu-por-la-via-cepeda/

A very iconic peak and Cepeda is a great route to get a good overall feeling of the wall.

I've walked past it descending from the Rabada-Navarro, incredible that it goes at (mostly) 5.6. The limestone will be immaculate and very rough so I can imagine it is much easier than it looks from afar. 

Naranjo/Urriellu is a magnificent mountain in a superb setting. The classic routes to the summit are surely good candidates for world class at their grades.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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