Type: Trad, 360 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jim Newlands and Bruce Hocking
Page Views: 2,838 total · 28/month
Shared By: Dean Carpenter on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Classic route up a beautiful buttress. Text book Arapiles traverses and steep jugs with some intimidating sections for the modest rating.

P1 - Start at the very lowest tip of the buttress. Climb a smooth, runout slab of good rock up to a left facing dihedral. Head diagonally right up an easy ramp and belay at the top of the ramp.

P2 - Step around the arete, then head up under the roof that crosses most of the face. Traverse left under the roof making some awkward moves with some nice exposure. After the traverse move up a few feet and build an airy belay. This is a great and exciting pitch, some people resort to an amusing technique with their asses above their heads as they cross the traverse.

P3 - Climb up and right from the belay (crux). You can choose to go high or low for this section. We went high and found some interesting face moves. Head up the short bottomless chimney and belay on a big comfortable ledge.

P4 - Step left across the chimney and head up the steep face on big holds to the Bard Terrace. Belay on the broad terrace.

P5 - Find a bottomless corner on the left. Make a few tricky moves to get into the corner. At the top of the corner move right and head up the wall on classic Arapiles jugs. Run it out to the top and belay on boulders.


The Bard Buttress is the most striking feature as you drive up. A short walk from the Pines Campground. You can't miss it.

Descent - From the top scramble southwest and find the entrance to Ali Baba's cave. Follow the cave south to where it overlooks the campground, and head down following the cables and chains.


Standard rack.


This is a great warmup route to get to know how gear is placed here and what the rock is like. I don't think it lives up to the hype surrounding it though. The second pitch is definitely a trip. Make sure to bring cams to protect you and your follower. May 22, 2013
Kevin DB  
One of the best routes in the world at the grade. Jun 18, 2015