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I've put a few longer than 6ft up the top and supplied a load that were 10ft long. There's an order on my work list for 10@12", 10@18" and 10@24". Nothing unusual. |
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That's crazy.. what do you need 10ft of chain for?. You guys building via ferattas? I removed about 6ft of chain from the eaglet that you could see from the bike path a half mile away and replaced it with two fixe ring anchors and no chain..... Post Limit Jim, in those situations if we hung 10ft of chain on something here in the states it likly would cause a big stink. And I am ok with that. The more common method is to either have it be a lead only climb and the chains are at the last spot on the wall that the rope will pull easily from. If it's a top rope crag it might have two sets of anchors. One over the edge and then an anchor up on top somewhere convenient for rappelling to the real Anchors. This has the bonus of being a good rappelling teaching location. another good method (see Acadia NP) is to place staples /epoxy bolts up on the flat and the guides bring their own static line for TR anchor building. |
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Permanent top-rope or rap anchors where the rings need to be over the edge but the chain pulled up to install the rope. If the edge is rounded or sloping or the only good placement is well back then that's what you do. |
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People have been known to buy long chains and cut them into custom lengths. |
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A section of long link chain (to allow connection at any point) connected to a high bolt and run down the side of a long tufa (sometimes pinned in) can be the only way to protect sections of rock on routes with tufas solid for climbing on but not solid enough for fixing bolts into. |
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I don't think we have those tuffas here in the states. |
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Nick Goldsmithwrote: And when it's a cliff owned by the climbing community on their property where no one can see them, lead climbing and rappelling is prohibited and that's what the climbers want then it's nothing to do with you. There's more in climbing than your views and experience. |
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Nick Goldsmithwrote: Beyond the frontier of the great state of Vermont, an immense and diverse world of climbing awaits you. There, you'll find numerous scenarios in which a longish (>4 links) chain or cable draw provides the only practical means of protection, and/or of cleaning the route. While I'm 100% sure we lack tuffas and 80% sure we lack classic Euro tufas here in the US, we have plenty of overhanging sections on which the climbable features are not the best places for bolts. I agree that conspicuous gear is less than ideal, and wouldn't install it in view of a road or popular trail...or VT for that matter. In my personal ethic, I don't put bolts near solid natural pro. But when establishing routes where much of the rock is both overhanging and fractured, one must make compromises. |
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Long chains are also useful for making permadraws and don't get beat up as fast as rope or cable draws. :) |
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I totally get all those other than top anchor uses. I had this horrible vision of 6ft to 10ft shiny chains on the top of every climb at a newly developed area.... and yes I have climbed at quite a few places outside of VT and have yet to see a top anchor with 6+ft of chain that I could not have done a much cleaner job of installing. How about those horrid cables they wrecked the gunks with.... |
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Nick Goldsmithwrote: I've seen 6ft of chain connecting 2 bolts in the desert to spread the love because the stone was... Sub-optimal. They did paint it brown though :) |
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Logan Petersonwrote: This… and if you couldn’t see this as the reason most are buying 6 foot sections of chain you shouldn’t be making sassy comments on mountain proj? |
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you are absolutely right about the desert. All bets are off about trying to build anchors on mud towers.... Nice snarky comment nathan. |
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Peter Thomaswrote: How many bolts are in a box? |
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I’ll take 2 boxes if you still have them |
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Hilti's are gone. got a couple emails right after posting. |
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Figured I’d post this here too. |
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Is this a really good deal on Stainless Steel hangers? Or do you think it is mislabeled plated hangers? Title: Fixe Climbing Gear Fixe 1 Hanger Stainless Steel M12 100 Units Price: $120.99 Picture appears to be Fixe's plated hanger Description says: "Material:ecotri zinc plated / 316L stainless steel." I submitted a question on the page a couple of days ago, and haven't gotten a response. If this was a US retailer with easy returns I'd just order and find out. https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/fixe-climbing-gear-fixe-1-hanger-stainless-steel-m12-100-units/138104922/p |
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Alex Rwrote: Picture is definitely the ecotri zinc, not the 316L. Their product page should list one or the other, not both I don't see 12 mm available on fixe website for 316l. 12mm is only on fixe website for the ecotri zinc https://fixehardware.com/index.php/fixe/climbing-hardware/hangers.html |





